Lower front fender removal
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Wisconcin
Left front fender removal
Hello everyone -
How difficult is it to remove & replace the left front fender (driver's side) on a 1996 base coupe?
My recently-purchased 1996 Corvette has a crack along the flange - on top where the fender is bolted to the car. It isn't noticeable unless the hood is open, but I would rather just get it replaced because it bothers me.
If it's just a matter of unbolting it, and bolting-on a new one, I would like to just order one now while the car is in storage and get it painted the correct color.
I'm no mechanic, and even less qualified when it comes to body work, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. It would be great if I could get a new replacement, get it painted by a qualified body shop, and install it myself.
I found several places to purchase a new fender - an example is shown below.
http://www.corvettesouth.com/corvett...41f23cae886b6a
Thanks for your time !
nummy
How difficult is it to remove & replace the left front fender (driver's side) on a 1996 base coupe?
My recently-purchased 1996 Corvette has a crack along the flange - on top where the fender is bolted to the car. It isn't noticeable unless the hood is open, but I would rather just get it replaced because it bothers me.
If it's just a matter of unbolting it, and bolting-on a new one, I would like to just order one now while the car is in storage and get it painted the correct color.
I'm no mechanic, and even less qualified when it comes to body work, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. It would be great if I could get a new replacement, get it painted by a qualified body shop, and install it myself.
I found several places to purchase a new fender - an example is shown below.
http://www.corvettesouth.com/corvett...41f23cae886b6a
Thanks for your time !
nummy
Last edited by nummy; Jan 18, 2013 at 02:19 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,751
Likes: 275
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Hello everyone -
How difficult is it to remove & replace the left front fender (driver's side) on a 1996 base coupe?
My recently-purchased 1996 Corvette has a crack along the flange - on top where the fender is bolted to the car. It isn't noticeable unless the hood is open, but I would rather just get it replaced because it bothers me.
If it's just a matter of unbolting it, and bolting-on a new one, I would like to just order one now while the car is in storage and get it painted the correct color.
I'm no mechanic, and even less qualified when it comes to body work, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. It would be great if I could get a new replacement, get it painted by a qualified body shop, and install it myself.
I found several places to purchase a new fender - an example is shown below.
http://www.corvettesouth.com/corvett...41f23cae886b6a
Thanks for your time !
nummy
How difficult is it to remove & replace the left front fender (driver's side) on a 1996 base coupe?
My recently-purchased 1996 Corvette has a crack along the flange - on top where the fender is bolted to the car. It isn't noticeable unless the hood is open, but I would rather just get it replaced because it bothers me.
If it's just a matter of unbolting it, and bolting-on a new one, I would like to just order one now while the car is in storage and get it painted the correct color.
I'm no mechanic, and even less qualified when it comes to body work, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. It would be great if I could get a new replacement, get it painted by a qualified body shop, and install it myself.
I found several places to purchase a new fender - an example is shown below.
http://www.corvettesouth.com/corvett...41f23cae886b6a
Thanks for your time !
nummy
1x bolt at the top near the door, move the rubber seal that goes to the latch and you will see it.
the torx bolts facing the tire and there is one bolt to loosen between the sill panel and fender panel, slightly more forward than the top bolt.
Shine a torch and you will see the head of the bolt use an open ended spanner to undo it a few turns.
You may be able to find one the correct color.
Last edited by gerardvg; Jan 18, 2013 at 02:22 AM. Reason: More info
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Wisconcin
Not sure what you mean by a "1x bolt", or the rubber seal that goes to the latch. (the car isn't here, so it's hard to envission)
I re-call the torx bolts facing the tire, but I'm not sure what you mean regarding the single bolt betwenn the fender sill and the door sill, or your reference to being slightly more forward than the top bolt.....what top bolt are you referring to?
Sorry for the rookie questions, but it sounds by your description that it's something I could handle myself.....I just don't want to screw it up.....
Thank you for your time !
nummy
I re-call the torx bolts facing the tire, but I'm not sure what you mean regarding the single bolt betwenn the fender sill and the door sill, or your reference to being slightly more forward than the top bolt.....what top bolt are you referring to?
Sorry for the rookie questions, but it sounds by your description that it's something I could handle myself.....I just don't want to screw it up.....
Thank you for your time !
nummy
They are easy to remove.
1x bolt at the top near the door, move the rubber seal that goes to the latch and you will see it.
the torx bolts facing the tire and there is one bolt to loosen between the sill panel and fender panel, slightly more forward than the top bolt.
Shine a torch and you will see the head of the bolt use an open ended spanner to undo it a few turns.
You may be able to find one the correct color.
1x bolt at the top near the door, move the rubber seal that goes to the latch and you will see it.
the torx bolts facing the tire and there is one bolt to loosen between the sill panel and fender panel, slightly more forward than the top bolt.
Shine a torch and you will see the head of the bolt use an open ended spanner to undo it a few turns.
You may be able to find one the correct color.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 4
From: Argillite KY
It's just that simple. To get to the bottom bolts you have to take a couple of screws out of the rocker panel and pull it out enough to get to the bottom screws. You have to pull the rocker panel in these cars to change the battery.
It won't take long at all. Jump on it.
It won't take long at all. Jump on it.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Still even if a person were to need to loosen or remove a couple rocker fasteners it's not an issue.
OP: Post a snapshot of the break if you will. I doubt that it might require the purchase of a new panel and if it would be a more appropriate repair I'd certainly entertain the purchase of a used vs new as has been mentioned. Refinish isn't inexpensive, color matches are a possible problem. Used is likely a more appropriate replacement. What color is the car? Paint code?
The new panel you refer to with refinish labor and materials could easily end up being a $300 outlay. Easily!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jan 18, 2013 at 03:25 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 226
Likes: 30
From: Imperial, Mo. USA Mo
On my 1988 there are the three torx head bolts along the wheelwell, a 10mm on the top of the panel and then a 10mm at the bottom, that just needs to be loosened. The panel is slotted so you shouldn't have to take the rocker panels off. I can change a battery in a few minutes.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 706
Likes: 265
From: Jyväskylä, FINLAND
Here you can see the attaching bolts (don't mind the language, it's Finnish) http://finnshark.com/forum/showpost....&postcount=151
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Wisconcin
Not sure what you meant by the statement "Depending upon one's tool box the removal or loosening of the rocker is NOT required." If the rocker bolt isn't loosened and removed, how can the fender be removed?
I watched this You Tube video that somewhat showed how to remove the battery:
I will attempt to upload a photo of the crack when I'm off from work tomorrow.
The crack is 2 inches long at the flange under the upper bolt closest to the firewall where the rubber seal has to be moved-over. I wondered if there was some type of extra-strength glue that could be used, but I envissioned it cracking again when re-attaching the fender. The color is 1996 Torch Red - 70 code I believe.
If you watch that You Tube video, what is the guy sayiing about that lower bolt coming out the fist time, then having to "cut it" ?
WOW - you guys are really helpful !
nummy
I watched this You Tube video that somewhat showed how to remove the battery:
I will attempt to upload a photo of the crack when I'm off from work tomorrow.
The crack is 2 inches long at the flange under the upper bolt closest to the firewall where the rubber seal has to be moved-over. I wondered if there was some type of extra-strength glue that could be used, but I envissioned it cracking again when re-attaching the fender. The color is 1996 Torch Red - 70 code I believe.
If you watch that You Tube video, what is the guy sayiing about that lower bolt coming out the fist time, then having to "cut it" ?
WOW - you guys are really helpful !
nummy
Depending upon one's tool box the removal or loosening of the rocker is NOT required. The appropriate sized "tappet" wrench or most quality end wrenches will do the lower fastener. There are also specialty wrenches that can be purchased singularly if a person wanted.
Still even if a person were to need to loosen or remove a couple rocker fasteners it's not an issue.
OP: Post a snapshot of the break if you will. I doubt that it might require the purchase of a new panel and if it would be a more appropriate repair I'd certainly entertain the purchase of a used vs new as has been mentioned. Refinish isn't inexpensive, color matches are a possible problem. Used is likely a more appropriate replacement. What color is the car? Paint code?
The new panel you refer to with refinish labor and materials could easily end up being a $300 outlay. Easily!
Still even if a person were to need to loosen or remove a couple rocker fasteners it's not an issue.
OP: Post a snapshot of the break if you will. I doubt that it might require the purchase of a new panel and if it would be a more appropriate repair I'd certainly entertain the purchase of a used vs new as has been mentioned. Refinish isn't inexpensive, color matches are a possible problem. Used is likely a more appropriate replacement. What color is the car? Paint code?
The new panel you refer to with refinish labor and materials could easily end up being a $300 outlay. Easily!
Last edited by nummy; Jan 18, 2013 at 03:44 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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What I meaant was, sometimes very inexpensive tools of lesser quality might be "thicker" and present a challenge being inserted between the rocker and the lower panel. Now that you've seen the location of the 2 10mm fasteners top and bottom take a new look at the challenge when you go to your car. It should be very easy to relate the video to your removal. I thought the audio problem was my connection.
My original thought when I read your original post was a potential repair with appropriate adhesives!
My original thought when I read your original post was a potential repair with appropriate adhesives!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jan 18, 2013 at 03:46 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Wisconcin
I totally understand now - thank you !
It would be great if I could somehow glue that crack back together because the actual finish of the fender is perfect....not sure how it became cracked - over tightening perhaps during the last battery replacement, or vibration?
It would be great if I could somehow glue that crack back together because the actual finish of the fender is perfect....not sure how it became cracked - over tightening perhaps during the last battery replacement, or vibration?
What I meaant was, sometimes very inexpensive tools of lesser quality might be "thicker" and present a challenge being inserted between the rocker and the lower panel. Now that you've seen the location of the 2 10mm fasteners top and bottom take a new look at the challenge when you go to your car. It should be very easy to relate the video to your removal. I thought the audio problem was my connection.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: moraga ca
If it looks ok from the outside, I would just epoxy or bond the crack so it won't continue. You can always repaint the cracked area that doesn't show. This way, you won't have to deal with paint matching the outside. Just my thoughts.
Melting Slicks
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From: Delta B.C. Canada
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On the bottom 10mm bolt, there is not a lot of room to fit a wrench. I just made my own little tool by cutting a 10mm notch in a piece of 1/8" flat bar. It fits in the gap with ease. You just need to loosen this bolt...do not remove it. Once loose, the sill panel just pulls straight outward.
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From: Wisconcin
Thanks for the advice - I did that and it looks great !
WOW......I must look like a real dumb ***.
nummy
WOW......I must look like a real dumb ***.
nummy