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C4 U-joint markings ?

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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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Default C4 U-joint markings ?

I recently purchased a couple of AC Delco u-joints for my 86 roadster with part #45U0405. This seems to be the correct replacement part for the anti-galvanic drive shaft joints.

The parts are made in the USA but I'm not sure who the manufacturer might be. Can anyone help me interpret these casting numbers to ID the manufacturer?

Thanks much,

P.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by pmihaltian
I recently purchased a couple of AC Delco u-joints for my 86 roadster with part #45U0405. This seems to be the correct replacement part for the anti-galvanic drive shaft joints.

The parts are made in the USA but I'm not sure who the manufacturer might be. Can anyone help me interpret these casting numbers to ID the manufacturer?

Thanks much,

P.
The ACD joints are actually a good buy BUT you need to be cautious. They sell 3 - lines and they're not from the same supplier. I wouldn't want to guess who the current vendor might be but when they introduced the u-joint line 7 or so years ago it was reported to be NEAPCO for at least the premium line.

The Neapco premium/performance line has red seals but they would have been done to ACD specs so the cross could have castings only relative to that branding and of course the seals could be any color. The image of the other side of your u-joint I believe is identical to the Neapco premium. Post the snapshot of the other side.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Jan 19, 2013 at 05:54 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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If you do some heavy racing, and your avitar shows you do, you might want to get some spicer ujoints with no zerk fitting. They are pretty bulletproof and are not weakened by the drilling of a hole. I wouldn't worry about the coated aspect. My 84 ran spicers it's whole life and nothing corroded.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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The zerks are useless once installed and the drilled out yoke is not as "solid"/strong as a non-serviceable joint.
IF installed clean with a smear of grease on the caps there won;t be any corrosion from dissimilar metal contact.

Just polish inside the aluminum yoke with a wire brush or 220 sand paper, then you could even apply a coat of anti-seize for the caps to rest in.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
If you do some heavy racing, and your avitar shows you do, you might want to get some spicer ujoints with no zerk fitting.
Spicer # 5-1350X or if old stock superseded part # 5-799X

Stories around that the Spicers are hard to get in some places ;
I found the Neapco Brute Force series just as good and better availability at local parts shops
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 06:48 AM
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Looks like...p/n....country of origin....forge shop supplier....heat code of particular batch of steel.
Bill
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by UNCLEBILL
Looks like...p/n....country of origin....forge shop supplier....heat code of particular batch of steel.
Bill
A lot of companies outsource the raw forgings. I used to work at a forge shop in Iowa. We made u-joint forgings for quite a few manufacturers who did the machining and assembly.
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