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As I stated in an earlier post I recently got my car back from the 383 project, runs great!! Still waiting on the dyno and ECM calibration, more to come. While I had the motor out I replaced the steering rack(TRW rebuilt) and also replaced the p/s pump. My problem is I get a lot of "chatter" at low speeds. Sound is the same you get if low on fluid, although the fluid is full. Does this whether cold or warm. I'm hoping it's the fluid, my builder filled it with regular ATF. I've read where GM recommends a synthetic blend. I don't have easy access to the GM fluid, I'd have to order it and since it's considered hazardous material it would come surface via yak train. I ordered two quarts of Redline from a local Racing Shop here. I hope this fixes my problem. I'm praying I don't have a defective rack, it would be a major pita to replace. Anybody have similar problem with improper fluid?
in my '85 i replaced the rack twice....i didn't bleed it either time (don't ask why i did it twice :D ) and i had whine (no chattering) but when the bubbles worked their way out of the system, she was fine i'd say give it a bit more time....a couple to few weeks, and keep topping the fluid of :yesnod:
Yes, the cause to the chatter is air that is locked in the system. You needed to bleed the system properly. We have been using regular ATF in many of the shop vehicles that we have with no problems whatsoever. The GM fluid is probably better though.
From: And on the fifth day, subpoenas were served to Obama senior staff
Re: Power Steering Problem
ATF is the wrong fluid for your system and you should flush it when you have time. However it is not why you have a problem. Your problem is air in the system.
Your need a manual from Helms, however this is the short answer:
Raise front end so both tires are safely off the ground.
Remove PS cap and have good fluid available.
With engine running turn steering wheel almost full clockwise, but don't hit the end. Then turn steering wheel almost full counter-clockwise but don't hit the end. Top up fluid as necessary; repeat proceedure for as many times as it takes to get the air out.
My first thought was air in the system but I thought by now all the air would have been out by now. I could be wrong but I don't believe the chatter was there at first, but became worse over time. Either way I have proper fluid on the way and will flush and bleed the system.
I ran into a similar problem...it was caused by a slightly loose return hose to pump connection. It wouldn't leak when running but did when you turned the car off and made terrible whine. Obviously, air was getting sucked into the system when operating and leaked when it wasn't. Just installed two hose clamps to it.
No leaks, I forgot to mention all off the stock hoses have been redone with braided. I got the necessary fittings for the pressure side from the pump to the rack from another forum member. I had it pressure tested to 2200 psi. I welded AN fittings to the cooler and adapted AN fittings to the reservoir. I was wondering if some how I'm restricting flow on the return to the pump but all the lines are actually larger than what they replaced. I was just reading my service manual and discovered I may have not bleed the system properly. I thought the engine had to be running with wheels off the ground turning lock to lock. According to the manual it's done with the engine off. :bb Oh well I'll try this again. I'm praying :blueangel: it comes down to crappy fluid. Keep your fingers crossed.
I have the original rack and pump going on 116k and it was moaning. I replaced the fluid with the Valvoline synthetic blend and it is silent now with no effort required to turn.