It's time to change the clutch, I've got 90000 plus on it. The release/throw out bearing is so bad that when you push down on the clutch, your foot gets a nice massage and the trans sounds like a bucket of bolts. Other then that it runs great. My question is after looking around for clutches I don't know which one to get, that will hold up as long as this one did. Does anyone have any suggestions on a clutch manufactor. Second question is three years ago I installed a new radio and I replaced the battery at the same time. Ever sense then, I have been getting a system problem flashing up on the dash board now and then. I thought It was the battery, so I brought the car to Tonys corvette shop in Gaithersburg Md. he said that this problem is because of the radio. The computer is still looking for the factory radio, and the system light is flashing because it can not find the factory radio. I was told that there was nothing I can do about that. Is he right!!! Stuck in the garage for now

 

Valeo makes the stock clutch, and you can get the kit which will have the throw out bearing, with it. I had mine replaced well, about 100K miles ago, it's just now about time to replace. The trouble you will find is the flywheel. If you are not familiar with the dual mass, there are two issues with it. 1st, it cannot be resurfaced. 2nd, they are not manufactured anymore. Now, if it is still in decent shape, it can be sanded or smoothed out, and you'll be fine. Given it is still within it's movement spec. If not, you will be looking at a single mass conversion. Or just trying to find a gently used dual mass.

 

Good luck finding a real Valeo pressure plate and 'INA' throwout bearing.

All the replacement kits are using a made-in-china pressure plate and made-in-china throwout bearing.

The throwout bearing is the thing Im real worried about. The China one I got was 'sloppy' with much more off-axis play than the used INA one that I took out.

I took a chance and installed it. The clutch pedal release point was higher off the floor than you'd expect for a new clutch (which I dont like).

Dont worry about the dual mass flywheel. That thing should be replaced and used as a boat anchor its so heavy. Now is the time to replace it with a lightweight 12lb aluminum flywheel. There will be a tiny amount of 'rattle' under WOT 1st gear acceleration and if you lug it up a hill in too high of a gear. Also a little trickier to launch at dragstrip, but you get used to it.

If getting rid of the dual mass flywheel for a lighter weight single mass flywheel: Be sure the clutch you use is sprung hub clutch (the stock clutch disk is not). You need the sprung hub to dampen noise and soften the shock on your drivetrain during gear engagements.

Ive been having great luck with my SPEC stage 3+ clutch which handles my 510 rwhp and has great street manners. Stay away from the 'puck' fan-blade looking clutches like spec stage 3 which I dont think are sprung hub and have nasty street manners (ie. backing up a hill slowly would be difficult).

If you are just so scared about that tiny extra noise, they do make a marginally heavier steel flywheel. However, I love my alum. flywheel. Each person has their own opinion on this hear and opinions are like...you know... no one wants to hear it.

The last piece of advice I give is be certain of the trans in your car.
I think you say you have a 96 so its almost certainly going to be blue tag.

I thought my 93 was a black tag, however it had a remanfucatured blue tag in it. And I bought the car with only 26k miles on it.

Since I thought it had a black tag, I had been putting a black tag throwout bearing in it. This was the wrong t/o bearing! It still fits, but is slightly larger and results in notchier shifting and possibly increases the chance of a t/o bearing failure. In fact, whoever put the remanufactured blue tag in there, also useed the wrong black tag t/o bearing on it as well. So its not just me! Easy mistake to make.

 

i agree, mismatched throwout bearings are probably fairly common ; also a spec stage 3 plus with their lightweight billet steel flywheel is a very nice set up

 

As for the radio. I've read there's a resistor mod needed if your car doesn't have electronic climate control. With climate control the car doesn't flash the sys light with an aftermarket radio. I have a 93 with an aftermarket radio and don't have the light and don't have the mod. So, if you search you should be able to find out more on the resistor mod. I just can't remember where it is. Maybe someone can point you in the right direction.

 

Thanks for all the help

 

Power Torque Systems has OEM parts including pressure plates, clutch plates, and throw-out bearings. The owner is a fellow Corvette nut and racer. These parts are the real deal, not China parts. When they're gone they're gone.

 

As anyone herd of spec clutches down in Alabama. They say on there web site, made in the usa. I'm going to call them Monday

 

I don't have electronic climate control, but I bought the two book service manual when I bought the car. I will look at the section about climate control and see what is the number and location of the resistor.

Thanks

 

Yes, in my previous post to you I mentioned a spec stage 3+ for modd high hp cars, but I think it would work fine in a stock car too because the driveability is so good.

You'll want to get rid of the useless heavy boat anchor dual mass flywheel at this time also in favor of a lighter weight steel or even lighter weight alum flywheel (my choice). So you will need to buy that part from them.

Reference my previous post about the throwout bearings

The spec clutch disk might be made in the usa

The pressure plate in the kit likely will be made in china.

If the pressure plate doesn't say valeo on it, then its likely made in china.

Spec paints them a pretty blue color and may machine down the disk some to account for the thicker stage 3+ friction disk.

 

Do a forum search on here for "spec" or "flywheel" or Zf". The Spec system seems to get good reviews.

I am also considering a move to the Ram system, which along with an aluminum flyhweel, can also convert the throwout bearing to a hydraulic set up as on the C5's. Thus getting rid of the increasingly harder to find clutch slave cylinder, as the replacements now are Chinese and come with a factory installed leak. The pull type clutch on the C4 is the tranny's weakest link IMO.

 

If you go the RAM be cautious of the puck style or fan blade style as mentioned above.

 

You won't find the resistor in your FSM. Go to the forum tab - general corvette - audio/electronics - sticky: C4 audio FAQ - see answer to #2 and tap on TSB regarding flashing sys. Then look at the bulletin and you should see where the resistor needs to be installed. Hope this helps!

 

I know, or so have heard. I, myself would go with a traditional style disc. The only reason I would go this route is to be free of the pesky slave cylinder. The modern replacements just don't seem reliable.

 

Jim Jandik - power torque systems is your friend.

He will rebuild your old one vs. have you test your luck with some made-in-china replacement.

 

I just went through an auto to manual swap and purchased all my clutch parts from Jim. He helped me a lot and his customer service is great. He's dedicated to saving the original hydraulics and makes them work as they should. I wish I could comment on what I purchased, but haven't even started the car yet, getting close though. I went with a lightweight steel flywheel, spec clutch disc, and Jim found me an LT4 Valeo pressure plate. Jim had my flywheel balanced to match my original flex plate, just to be safe. So, I definitely recommend contacting Jim. Even if you don't purchase from him he'll point you in the right direction.