Need some help here.
I have come across 2 problems while getting ready to drop my 700R4 from the bottom. I'm using a 4 post lift. I have noticed 2 Hydrolic fluid connectors that attach to the upper side of the trans. on the passenger side that I need to remove as I lower the trans. Are these fittings metric and if so what size? My 88 seems to have std & metric connections.

The other problem is I see only 4 bolts that attach the trans. to the block. Both seen from the bottom, 2 uppers being a PITA to remove. I am sure they are more. Can they be seen from the top?


Have buy tools, 21mm open/boxed wrench. Any others?

Thank you.

 

If you pull the dist to get more engine to firewall clearance , you can lay the motor and trans down at a steeper angle (WATCH the wiper motor!!!)
so you can access the 2 top bellhousing bolts over the top of the trans from underneath
Need about 2 ft of extensions with a swivel on the 9/16" socket to do it
The top bolt on pass side also hold the trans dipstick so you need the bolt out 1st then remove the dipstick through the engine bay
Someone else will know the tube nut size but you need a 11/16" open ender to hold the brass fitting while you undo the steel tube nut on the cooler line.
You don't unscrew the brass fitting into the trans case

 

..... Drain the trans BEFORE you start ... and disconnect the battery ... you'll be glad you did ... Don't forget the torque converter bolts (3) they should be 15mm ... they face the front side of the flexplate / flywheel ... you'll need to turn the engine to access all three and then you have to hold the engine to keep it from turning while you loosen them ... the bellhousing to block bolts are 9/16" ... should be six of them ... I use a 36" extension with a wobble socket to get the uppers ... the trans cooler line nuts are 1/2" , use a fitting wrench if you can ... the TV cable screw is 10mm ... I usually drop the trans down a bit first ... makes it easier to see ... remember that when you put it back in ... also remember the dipstick / filler tube when you're going back in ... the TV cable has to be disconnected from the bracket at the plenum and throttle body BEFORE you start to drop the trans ... as mentioned earlier ... the distributor cap should be removed also , to keep it from hitting the firewall and breaking ... If you're doing this on the floor , use a bottle jack and some blocks of wood under the oil pan to support the engine ... the side of the car has to be at least 18" off the floor for the trans to exit from underneath ... I bolted a 12" square piece of plywood to the lifting pad of my floor jack to hold the trans steady ... I think that covers it , though at this time of the morning , who knows what I may have forgotten ? ........

 

Thanks vetteoz & C409,

I knew this wasn't going to be easy. I have the converter loose, disconnected all cables and electrical lines that I can get my hands on, all fluid is out. I'll get a set of std size flare wrenches just in case, a couple of long 3/8 extensions, and a set of swival std scokets. I think I have a 11/16 wrench. It's one of those sizes that never gets used.
I think I'll set the motor to TDC and pull the distributor out.
I have a trans jack that extends up to 68 inches and a friend that is a chevy mechanic coming over to help me lower it. I can lower the car lift if I need too.

Thanks again.

 

Everything is metric on the 700r4 transmissions. That said, my 1/2" flare nut wrench fits perfectly on the trans cooler lines. There wasn't enough room to get the wrench on them while the trans was in place, but it was very easy after the rear of the trans was lowered.

I've taken my trans out 4 times and never removed the distributor cover or distributor cap. The last time I pulled it out I checked the clearance and could get my fingers between the distributor cover and the firewall, so there's plenty of clearance there.

I found that you don't need to support the engine. The motor mounts are stiff enough to hold it. I found this out after I pulled the trans and saw that the engine was about 1/2" above the stack of wood I put under it.

Just for reference, the front C-beam bolts and nuts are 18mm and the rears are 21mm. I didn't have 21mm so I used 13/16" instead.

I've never disconnected my battery. The only electrical parts you need to work with are the trans connector and the VSS connector. If you have an '89 or later that has the round hole for the starter in the torque converter cover then you do need to remove the starter to get the cover off. In that case you do need to disconnect the battery.

 

Maybe on yours but not on any of mine.
I have either supported the pan off the cross member with timber or wedged some timber between the head and firewall
In any case the mounts are not designed to support that leverage

 

I always support the motor with a 2x4 and jackstand under the oilpan.