C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1988 oil cooler location?

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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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Default 1988 oil cooler location?

My parts book shows a radiator for oil cooling for 90-92. It doesn't show one for my 88. It does however show the oil filter mount adapter and the oil cooler lines coming off it. Does anyone know where these lines go and how this cooler works? I don't see them coming across to the radiator shroud.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 01:22 PM
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Because those aren't oil lines coming off the filter adapter, they're coolant lines. One runs to a "T" in the heater core line the other goes to the engine block. The cooler (exchanger) is the actual filter mount.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DanZ51
Because those aren't oil lines coming off the filter adapter, they're coolant lines. One runs to a "T" in the heater core line the other goes to the engine block. The cooler (exchanger) is the actual filter mount.

The system works by running engine coolant (radiator water) through the metal housing located on top of the oil filter thereby cooling the oil (supposedly).
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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Wow. Thanks for the info. That has to be the dumbest idea for cooling oil i have ever heard of. There is NO WAY there's enough surface area contact for any heat exchange worth mentioning to happen. That crap is coming out of there
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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It works fine on my 88 heats the oil in the winter and it does cool and keep the oil at a steedy temp.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
Wow. Thanks for the info. That has to be the dumbest idea for cooling oil i have ever heard of. There is NO WAY there's enough surface area contact for any heat exchange worth mentioning to happen. That crap is coming out of there
It's much more effective than you would likely think!
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:06 PM
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If i go down that road i'll install a real oil cooler.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
Wow. Thanks for the info. That has to be the dumbest idea for cooling oil i have ever heard of. There is NO WAY there's enough surface area contact for any heat exchange worth mentioning to happen. That crap is coming out of there
I've got one and it works. I guess those GM engineers are all smoking dope and trying to find ways to increase production costs for cars with no benefit.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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That must mean the oil cooler on my CAT C15, 500HP and 2000LBS TORK. Is just thare for looks.....
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
Wow. Thanks for the info. That has to be the dumbest idea for cooling oil i have ever heard of. There is NO WAY there's enough surface area contact for any heat exchange worth mentioning to happen. That crap is coming out of there
Actually the factory oil cooler does work. As emissions requirements got tougher, the engines had to run hotter to control emissions. Coolant temps of 190-220 became common and dino oils would begin to break down at temps only 20-30 degrees higher than those coolant temps. So that prompted GM to come up with the oil cooler system found on the L98 motor.

In 1992 with the advent of the LT1 motor, GM went with a full synthetic oil from Mobil-1 and because synthetics were capable of handling much higher oil temps, there was no need for an oil cooler. So the system went away and there was both a cost savings and a weight savings.

So if you do choose to remove the oil cooler, use a good quality full synthetic oil that has the GM4718 certification. That oil will help to offset the removal of the cooler. You will probbly see higher oil temps wit it gone, but the synthetic oil wil handle the higher temps.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 06:07 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to run some Mobil 1 and not worry about it. All those hoses are hard as a brick after 25 years. The synthetic works i can spend the money elsewhere. As for GM engineers smoking dope i hope it was the good stuff they were toking when they came up with gems like the Vega with that really neato long lasting aluminum engine......
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to run some Mobil 1 and not worry about it. All those hoses are hard as a brick after 25 years. The synthetic works i can spend the money elsewhere. As for GM engineers smoking dope i hope it was the good stuff they were toking when they came up with gems like the Vega with that really neato long lasting aluminum engine......
Hey, nobody is perfect. The Vegas make for a great drag racing chassis.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Hey, nobody is perfect. The Vegas make for a great drag racing chassis.
ROFL! Here's something scary. Go look at the prices a Vega sells for now. Next thing ya know Pintos are gonna be cool.....
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
ROFL! Here's something scary. Go look at the prices a Vega sells for now. Next thing ya know Pintos are gonna be cool.....
No more Pintos, they're all blown up by now.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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When you remove that oil cooler, spin off the oil filter, then you will need a 1 1/16 socket to turn the large nut that holds the cooler to the block. Also, get ready to have coolant run down your arms when you remove the coolant lines. You either have to plug them or make a loop to pass the coolant on through. Once the cooler is out you will have to remove the two stud/bolts holding the oil filter adapter to the block. I think they are 11 MM. Then get a couple 5/16 X 1 1/4 bolts and bolt the oil filter adapter back to the block. Spin on another filter and add or change the oil. I just did this to help me isolate an oil leak I am having in that area.
Hope this helps. JD
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jd2
When you remove that oil cooler, spin off the oil filter, then you will need a 1 1/16 socket to turn the large nut that holds the cooler to the block. Also, get ready to have coolant run down your arms when you remove the coolant lines. You either have to plug them or make a loop to pass the coolant on through. Once the cooler is out you will have to remove the two stud/bolts holding the oil filter adapter to the block. I think they are 11 MM. Then get a couple 5/16 X 1 1/4 bolts and bolt the oil filter adapter back to the block. Spin on another filter and add or change the oil. I just did this to help me isolate an oil leak I am having in that area.
Hope this helps. JD
Thanks for the tip. I'll be flushing the dexron out of my system and replace it with the proper coolant so losing the coolant won't be a problem.
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Old May 19, 2013 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by envirotrans
It works fine on my 88 heats the oil in the winter and it does cool and keep the oil at a steedy temp.
What are your oil temps ? Mine are 245-250. My oil is 20W-50 Castrol regular oil. I will go to synthetic when I can find 20W-50 synthetic. The selection is limited in these parts.
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Old May 19, 2013 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to run some Mobil 1 and not worry about it. All those hoses are hard as a brick after 25 years. The synthetic works i can spend the money elsewhere. As for GM engineers smoking dope i hope it was the good stuff they were toking when they came up with gems like the Vega with that really neato long lasting aluminum engine......
my friend, "Ford has a better idea" ; remember those ads ?
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Old May 19, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
my friend, "Ford has a better idea" ; remember those ads ?
Yep. I have some links stored for an oil cooler routed to the front. I'll be ditching the water fed one. Plus the Mobile 1 of course.
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Old May 20, 2013 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
As for GM engineers smoking dope i hope it was the good stuff they were toking when they came up with gems like the Vega with that really neato long lasting aluminum engine......
The fix for that is to buy the Cosworth version. I knew a guy who had one. VERY interesting engine.
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