355 vs 383
It is a stock LT1 with cast pistons and 50k on it. I am guessing I have a cracked piston or some bad ring lands on that cylinder. I am going to pull the engine and rebuild it before summer gets here in northern Wisconsin But since I just recently bought the car, my savings is a bit depleted. I have no choice but to pinch pennies and make this happen. I could always leave the car sit and wait until I save enough cash to do the awesome 383 build I want to do but that means I wont be driving the car all summer and that will drive me nuts.

So my question is, Should I pull the engine, bore the block .030 and put scat H-beam forged rods, Probe forged pistons, and a scat 9000 series crank, use my stock heads, a mild cam, 1.6 rockers and leave it as a 355 or should I build a 383 using the same parts with the 3.75 crank. The delema is I dont have the funds to buy new heads like I want right now considering they are anywhere form 1500 used to 2400 new for the AFR 210 comps. I am leaning towards building a forged 355, using my heads and intake, keeping the tuning issues to a minimum, having fun with the car for the summer and next winter I can pull the stock heads and intake and replace them with the AFRs like I want. .
I am going to have to have a local shop dyno tune the car anyway which is going to be expensive so I am wondering how a 383 would stand up with the stock heads and 8 pounds of boost...
Any opinions/advice would be much appreciated!





The pistons on the above build are economy minded and do snap landings with anything over moderate boost. At 550 rwhp you will be at that level and beyond.
My pocket says Diamond pistons and very stout rods and A good forged crank. Worry about the heads later. ( Have them checked out) Enjoy
<< Doing a weiand blowie 8-71 on my 74 now.
Last edited by illenema; Mar 19, 2013 at 07:23 PM.

BrianCunningham, what is the compression ratio on your 383? Also what cam and blower are you running ?
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I'm thinking of running a T trim when it wears out
So I lowered the compression down to 9 to 1
the cam is a custom grind by my tuner SloRvette
I'm probably a bit late with my advice, but I've been in your situation and let me tell you, if you don't have the funds for a motor build then don't do it! The last thing you need is to burden yourself with something you can't handle financially.
My advice would be to pull the head and see what is going on with the cylinder. It could be something as easy to fix as a blown head gasket. If it is a cracked piston it may not have damaged the cylinder walls and you can probably get away with just a ball hone and picking up a used stock piston from someone that has rebuilt their engine. That could get you back up and running with a very minimal cost. piston, rings, head gasket, oil pan gasket, and some coolant and oil.
If you are going to build the engine I would go with the 383. The low end torque will make the car much more fun to drive. The downside is that you may run out of air at the top end with the smaller heads. I'm not sure how much air the blower can push, but that might limit your upper rpm as well. You would need a dyno to really tell you.
9.0-9.5 would be good for the compression ratio, but make sure they gap the top ring extra wide. I had a boosted engine that didn't make it off the engine dyno before it destroyed the pistons because the ring gaps were done for an NA engine.
The other problem you may run into is that you will want to spin the blower faster to up the boost with the new engine. That means more of a chance of belt slip. But you can start changing that once the engine is up and running and back in the car.







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