Rookie question
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
do you have the engine isolated like i explained earlier?
pull all plugs if not done already
disconnect flexplate bolts from TC
remove starter
remove the belts
goto a local auto parts store and buy a flexplate/flywheel tool to rotate it that way. i think they are about $20
i would remove as much as possible to get a %100 guarantee that it is locked up, and if it is well you have most of the work done for removal....
here is tool you can buy, not necessarily from AAP but in general...
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header
pull all plugs if not done already
disconnect flexplate bolts from TC
remove starter
remove the belts
goto a local auto parts store and buy a flexplate/flywheel tool to rotate it that way. i think they are about $20
i would remove as much as possible to get a %100 guarantee that it is locked up, and if it is well you have most of the work done for removal....
here is tool you can buy, not necessarily from AAP but in general...
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header
Last edited by War Vet; Jun 9, 2013 at 02:04 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
if it does end up being seized then i would just pull motor and let machine shop take care of rest. i recently pulled my motor out b/c i had low compression on 2 cylinders..i tore the entire motor down to nothing and brought it to the machine shop. i disassembled as much as i could with the motor in the car still, ie..accessories, top-end, etc..basically just the block was left in the car. once i got it out i inspected it thoroughly, looking for anything that didnt seem right. i noticed that my rod bearings on cylinder 7 were significantly different than the rest..."discolored" or "burnt" miced the crank and sure enough it was out of round. brought it all to the machine shop, had them verify...and rebuilt the motor. i let them take all the measurements and order everything needed, i just told them what i wanted to do.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
War Vet, as follows:
pull all plugs if not done already -yup done
disconnect flexplate bolts from TCNot done, will do when tool arrives
remove starteryup done
remove the beltsyup done
OK, stupid question of the day..... Amateur rebuild? Like I said when I first picked up this car I am pretty handy, I just do not think that I have the space appropriate to do a rebuild. The smart move would probably to sell/part out the car and move on to one in better shape.... but it is a corvette and should be fixed. I will not have time to work on this until the weekend.... So.... I am gonna have a few beers and shop for either a short block or price out a full bolt in motor. either way I will know more this weekend, appreciate everyone's help, and will update.
pull all plugs if not done already -yup done
disconnect flexplate bolts from TCNot done, will do when tool arrives
remove starteryup done
remove the beltsyup done
OK, stupid question of the day..... Amateur rebuild? Like I said when I first picked up this car I am pretty handy, I just do not think that I have the space appropriate to do a rebuild. The smart move would probably to sell/part out the car and move on to one in better shape.... but it is a corvette and should be fixed. I will not have time to work on this until the weekend.... So.... I am gonna have a few beers and shop for either a short block or price out a full bolt in motor. either way I will know more this weekend, appreciate everyone's help, and will update.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Giving up
OK, It is done. The following:
Removed plugs
removed belt
removed starter
cannot disconnect flex plate, cant turn it to get to all of the bolts
tried turning at crank-No go
tried turning with flex plate tool- no go
tried turning the motor with it in every gear....
Again, I do not understand, I shut the car off, I did not have any overheating, and it did not just stop. I do not think I have the space/time to do a rebuild and think I am going to just list it on CL. I appreciate everyones help and patience. If there are any last minute ideas please post them. And if anyone is interested in the car, let me know.
Thanks,
Steve
Removed plugs
removed belt
removed starter
cannot disconnect flex plate, cant turn it to get to all of the bolts
tried turning at crank-No go
tried turning with flex plate tool- no go
tried turning the motor with it in every gear....
Again, I do not understand, I shut the car off, I did not have any overheating, and it did not just stop. I do not think I have the space/time to do a rebuild and think I am going to just list it on CL. I appreciate everyones help and patience. If there are any last minute ideas please post them. And if anyone is interested in the car, let me know.
Thanks,
Steve
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
scratching my head here. Never heard of a SBC just freezing up like that. First and foremost, stop twisting on that crank pulley bolt. Hope it doesn't break when it needs to be removed. Many times finding out whats wrong is finding out what ISNT wrong. Pulling the plugs and trying to turn the engine has told you that its not many things,,coolant/headgasket/ hydro leaks/locks. So we now know it most likely NOT in the top of the engine. That leaves crank, cam and "distrib"(not likely). That leaves bearing or something lodged somewhere, like a "rod"( Again, not likely). Did you change the oil b4 driving/cranking the first time? You can pull the oilpan with the engine in the car, just have to reach in and take the oil pump loose. it doesn't seem likely that its the trans, but who knows. Old oil, seized a bearing after shutting down? be the first time I heard of it happening. rebuilding a gen.1 sbc isn't difficult. If you cant get to the flywheel bolts cause it wont turn over..gotta pull the tranny with it. Gotta drop the exhaust to pull the tranny. Please keep us updated on this. if you were close,oh well.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,839
Likes: 341
From: Database Error Indiana
You would not believe how easy it is to remove the oil pan. Remove the trans bell housing dust cover. remove the starter. Drop the pan and look at the bearings. You will find out what is up in an afternoon.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 350
Likes: 2
From: Huntsville AL
From the original post:
The bad injector probably leaked enough that it hydro-locked a cylinder, maybe even before you bought it. When an engine is cranked/started with a hydro-locked cylinder, it often bends the rod on the locked cylinder and the bend is usually a twist in the rod. By twist, that's to say that the center line of the piston pin is no longer parallel with the crankshaft throw. Even a slight twist will make the piston bind as it travels up and down the cylinder bore. This binding condition can heat the skirt of the piston to the point that it begins to melt. At the same time, the cylinder is getting scored and the big end of the rod is building heat on the faces of the rod. The engine continues to run (poorly) until enough heat is generated between the piston and cylinder or between the rod and crank, that the engine noses over and quits, or it binds so badly with damaged piston or bearing material that it can't be turned by the starter or with a flywheel tool. Sorry, but this engine (and possibly the block and/or crank) is probably toast without expensive machine shop work.
The bad injector probably leaked enough that it hydro-locked a cylinder, maybe even before you bought it. When an engine is cranked/started with a hydro-locked cylinder, it often bends the rod on the locked cylinder and the bend is usually a twist in the rod. By twist, that's to say that the center line of the piston pin is no longer parallel with the crankshaft throw. Even a slight twist will make the piston bind as it travels up and down the cylinder bore. This binding condition can heat the skirt of the piston to the point that it begins to melt. At the same time, the cylinder is getting scored and the big end of the rod is building heat on the faces of the rod. The engine continues to run (poorly) until enough heat is generated between the piston and cylinder or between the rod and crank, that the engine noses over and quits, or it binds so badly with damaged piston or bearing material that it can't be turned by the starter or with a flywheel tool. Sorry, but this engine (and possibly the block and/or crank) is probably toast without expensive machine shop work.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Ok, I am back. So everyone knows it was a bent connecting rod. I am looking to just replace the motor. I am basiclly thinking of keeping it a stock set up. What I am looking to put in is
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%...gDJFmflnUuhukw
I know it has been a couple of years, but it is time to pull this project out of storage and get her running again.
Let me know your thoughts
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%...gDJFmflnUuhukw
I know it has been a couple of years, but it is time to pull this project out of storage and get her running again.
Let me know your thoughts
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 275
Likes: 14
From: Gahanna, Ohio
Steve, there was a thread on here awhile back where a guy was trying to use the water method to decarbon his engine and just a tiny bit sucked into a vac line caused a perfectly good engine to bend a rod and turn to junk because of hydro-lock. With you running the motor with a bad tb I bet it was enough to cause damage, hence your problem. It's time to get a crate motor, beef it up, and drop the crossfire. I have a 84 and it can go, but there are so many faster efi options that if I had the money I would dump the crossfire and go another route. 
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Ok, I am back. So everyone knows it was a bent connecting rod. I am looking to just replace the motor. I am basiclly thinking of keeping it a stock set up. What I am looking to put in is
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%...gDJFmflnUuhukw
I know it has been a couple of years, but it is time to pull this project out of storage and get her running again.
Let me know your thoughts
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%...gDJFmflnUuhukw
I know it has been a couple of years, but it is time to pull this project out of storage and get her running again.
Let me know your thoughts