C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Jun 9, 2013 | 02:01 PM
  #21  
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do you have the engine isolated like i explained earlier?

pull all plugs if not done already
disconnect flexplate bolts from TC
remove starter
remove the belts
goto a local auto parts store and buy a flexplate/flywheel tool to rotate it that way. i think they are about $20
i would remove as much as possible to get a %100 guarantee that it is locked up, and if it is well you have most of the work done for removal....

here is tool you can buy, not necessarily from AAP but in general...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header

Last edited by War Vet; Jun 9, 2013 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2013 | 02:12 PM
  #22  
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if it does end up being seized then i would just pull motor and let machine shop take care of rest. i recently pulled my motor out b/c i had low compression on 2 cylinders..i tore the entire motor down to nothing and brought it to the machine shop. i disassembled as much as i could with the motor in the car still, ie..accessories, top-end, etc..basically just the block was left in the car. once i got it out i inspected it thoroughly, looking for anything that didnt seem right. i noticed that my rod bearings on cylinder 7 were significantly different than the rest..."discolored" or "burnt" miced the crank and sure enough it was out of round. brought it all to the machine shop, had them verify...and rebuilt the motor. i let them take all the measurements and order everything needed, i just told them what i wanted to do.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #23  
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War Vet, as follows:
pull all plugs if not done already -yup done

disconnect flexplate bolts from TCNot done, will do when tool arrives

remove starteryup done

remove the beltsyup done

OK, stupid question of the day..... Amateur rebuild? Like I said when I first picked up this car I am pretty handy, I just do not think that I have the space appropriate to do a rebuild. The smart move would probably to sell/part out the car and move on to one in better shape.... but it is a corvette and should be fixed. I will not have time to work on this until the weekend.... So.... I am gonna have a few beers and shop for either a short block or price out a full bolt in motor. either way I will know more this weekend, appreciate everyone's help, and will update.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #24  
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Default Giving up

OK, It is done. The following:
Removed plugs
removed belt
removed starter
cannot disconnect flex plate, cant turn it to get to all of the bolts
tried turning at crank-No go
tried turning with flex plate tool- no go
tried turning the motor with it in every gear....


Again, I do not understand, I shut the car off, I did not have any overheating, and it did not just stop. I do not think I have the space/time to do a rebuild and think I am going to just list it on CL. I appreciate everyones help and patience. If there are any last minute ideas please post them. And if anyone is interested in the car, let me know.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 10:45 AM
  #25  
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scratching my head here. Never heard of a SBC just freezing up like that. First and foremost, stop twisting on that crank pulley bolt. Hope it doesn't break when it needs to be removed. Many times finding out whats wrong is finding out what ISNT wrong. Pulling the plugs and trying to turn the engine has told you that its not many things,,coolant/headgasket/ hydro leaks/locks. So we now know it most likely NOT in the top of the engine. That leaves crank, cam and "distrib"(not likely). That leaves bearing or something lodged somewhere, like a "rod"( Again, not likely). Did you change the oil b4 driving/cranking the first time? You can pull the oilpan with the engine in the car, just have to reach in and take the oil pump loose. it doesn't seem likely that its the trans, but who knows. Old oil, seized a bearing after shutting down? be the first time I heard of it happening. rebuilding a gen.1 sbc isn't difficult. If you cant get to the flywheel bolts cause it wont turn over..gotta pull the tranny with it. Gotta drop the exhaust to pull the tranny. Please keep us updated on this. if you were close,oh well.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 11:54 AM
  #26  
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You would not believe how easy it is to remove the oil pan. Remove the trans bell housing dust cover. remove the starter. Drop the pan and look at the bearings. You will find out what is up in an afternoon.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #27  
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From the original post:

Originally Posted by SteveMiller
...fuel just flowed through it, with out any kind of spray problem. It did run before I changed out the injector, just not very well.
The bad injector probably leaked enough that it hydro-locked a cylinder, maybe even before you bought it. When an engine is cranked/started with a hydro-locked cylinder, it often bends the rod on the locked cylinder and the bend is usually a twist in the rod. By twist, that's to say that the center line of the piston pin is no longer parallel with the crankshaft throw. Even a slight twist will make the piston bind as it travels up and down the cylinder bore. This binding condition can heat the skirt of the piston to the point that it begins to melt. At the same time, the cylinder is getting scored and the big end of the rod is building heat on the faces of the rod. The engine continues to run (poorly) until enough heat is generated between the piston and cylinder or between the rod and crank, that the engine noses over and quits, or it binds so badly with damaged piston or bearing material that it can't be turned by the starter or with a flywheel tool. Sorry, but this engine (and possibly the block and/or crank) is probably toast without expensive machine shop work.
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Old May 25, 2015 | 12:25 PM
  #28  
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Ok, I am back. So everyone knows it was a bent connecting rod. I am looking to just replace the motor. I am basiclly thinking of keeping it a stock set up. What I am looking to put in is
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%...gDJFmflnUuhukw

I know it has been a couple of years, but it is time to pull this project out of storage and get her running again.

Let me know your thoughts
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Old May 25, 2015 | 04:57 PM
  #29  
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Steve, there was a thread on here awhile back where a guy was trying to use the water method to decarbon his engine and just a tiny bit sucked into a vac line caused a perfectly good engine to bend a rod and turn to junk because of hydro-lock. With you running the motor with a bad tb I bet it was enough to cause damage, hence your problem. It's time to get a crate motor, beef it up, and drop the crossfire. I have a 84 and it can go, but there are so many faster efi options that if I had the money I would dump the crossfire and go another route.
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Old May 26, 2015 | 11:00 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SteveMiller
Ok, I am back. So everyone knows it was a bent connecting rod. I am looking to just replace the motor. I am basiclly thinking of keeping it a stock set up. What I am looking to put in is
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%...gDJFmflnUuhukw

I know it has been a couple of years, but it is time to pull this project out of storage and get her running again.

Let me know your thoughts
Looks like a direct bolt-in. Should work fine.
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