Good afternoon! I am a brand new user, so best regards to all. I have the option of acquiring an LT-1 car which I'm told has a spun bearing due to running out of oil. I don't know how long the engine was run this way or if it was driven until it quit. What's the worst case for repair? I'm thinking a new shortblock, at least. Ideas? Sources? (Nashville,TN) Thanks for your input.

 

:seeya
Welcome to the forum!

You should be able to get a rebuild for less than $2k if you pull the motor yourself.

 

Welcome to the forum. A new short block would probably be the most cost effective option for you. If the motor was run with no oil I would think the crank and all of the bearings were bad. I don't know for sure if it would work in an LT1 car but a GM ZZ4 short block runs around $1900. It comes with a warranty also. Good luck with the car. :cheers:

 

The crank might just need to be cut which would be about $125 plus new bearings. But if I had it apart that far I would go over the whole motor. All new bearings, rings, pistons, have the heads gone over and such.

 

Welcome to the forum....


[Modified by Husker Vette, 5:34 PM 6/19/2002]

 

i'd just rebuild the engine i'm in the process of doing exactly the same thing, i'll list a partial price guide of what you can expect. in the next week or two i'm going to do a detailed post on a rebuild with a lot of pics. you can turn your crank for $100 a 10/10 cut would be good unless yours is seriously injured. you can reuse your PM rods for $100 in machine work and $45 for ARP bolts, OR be smart & buy forged 5140 eagle I-beam rods with arp bolts for $199 off ebay or dyno-flo1.com. pistons, unless you are going to beat the holy hell out of it forged aren't needed & have oil consumption problems as well as the engine wearing out faster from the large ring/cyl gap you need. if you use a lot of No2 or plan on making over 450hp forged might be smart. under 450hp and under a 100-150shot a GOOD hyperutectic piston would work better. they seal wonderful and burn no oil. the one that fits the gen 1 & gen 2 corvette engines so well is made by speedpro. it's a teflon skirted 4 valve relief piston. with the stock heads and a .039 head gasket & a block decked to zero your compression is right on. cyl quench is almost ideal as well. the pistons are $150 from summit or jegs. hastings plasma moly rings are very easy to setup & seal wonderful $79.95 under the summit brand ring in there catalog, listed as the street strip ring. having a 3 angle valve job done and some bowl hogging is about $150 and definatly worth it. you can reuse your stock valves or buy manley race-flo necked valves in stock size for $152 that flow better. lifters are your call to replace or not, a low mi engine may be safe to reuse your old ones however a brand new complete kit from GM with everything is $210. if this were my car i'd do a cam change as well. many people have made the GM zz4 cam pass emissions & you would DEFINATLY get a BIG HP increase for $200. comp cams makes some really choice cams targeted at the LT1 but i haven't heard if anyone has passed them or not. the duration split is close & knowing how fast comp makes most there cams it's questionable if they would pass. if anyone knows email me. machine work for all the above will run around $1500 at a shop worth there weight in gold. i think your total will be over $2000 but you can probably keep it under $3000 with some skill. also you will have a brand new engine in the car this is worth some serious value by it's self. remember..if your the type who likes to do ANY mods to a car change that cam when the engine is out !! you have 30-50hp sitting there in a $200 bill.

 

Welcome to the forum :seeya I would go with a ZZ4 short block. forged crank pm pink rods, hypertetic pistons, 4 bolt mains, set up for a roller cam. warrenty..

 

Rich he's talking about a LT1 car :lol: that's gen 2 a zz4 is gen 1

 

Oops.. :bb