C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

timing chain and gears

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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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Default timing chain and gears

I'm planning my next weekend and running into some "might as wells". My main goals are to replace the oil pan and coolant hoses. I figure since I've got over 200k miles I might as well replace the timing chain since I'll be in the area and the car is running like crap lately.
I've never replaced a timing chain before and see a bunch of options available. I'm interested in a stock replacement and not having to replace other parts because of my selection. If I go with a double roller do I have to get a different cover? What is stock?

I've been doing a lot of reading and it looks like the cam gear just bolts on, but how the crank gear is connected isn't clear. does it just slip over the crank? does it need to be pressed on?

any tips for what i'm about to go through?

It's an 88 L98 auto

Ron
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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Congrats on the mileage.. I would be more concerned with other parts with the high mileage!
A double roller will clear your stock cover. Correct the cam gear is held on with 3 bolts.
The crank gear is press fit. a puller is needed to remove. I like to use a sleave and press the new crank gear on.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 08:34 PM
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thanks for the info, now it's time to go shopping! This is shaping up to be an expensive weekend. lots of parts being changed!
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:45 PM
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get a cloyes double roller. also has 3 keyways so you can set the cam straight up, retard or advance 3 degrees.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 12:04 AM
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The cam gear bolts on and usually uses a locking plate that you bend up the tabs to lock the bolts in place after you torque them. When the engine is in the car I usually heat the crank gear in the oven @ 300 then it will slip on pretty easily I dont like banging on the thing with a hammer but I would make sure its seated all the way on. Also the crank has a woodruff key so you need to make sure its in there right and cleanup any burrs.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 12:08 AM
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Dont forget to line up your timing marks
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 84wannabezo6
Dont forget to line up your timing marks
Most important to do the install correctly otherwise it will not run. I would replace the waterpump also. Don't cost much.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 08:17 AM
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Stock engine 200k miles? Just throw a single on it. That is if it needs it. At 200k miles you're closing in on an engine rebuild or a crate engine. Why are you replacing the oil pan? Is it broken or just leaking? If so it's a new gasket.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sl...model/corvette
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
Stock engine 200k miles? Just throw a single on it. That is if it needs it. At 200k miles you're closing in on an engine rebuild or a crate engine. Why are you replacing the oil pan? Is it broken or just leaking? If so it's a new gasket.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sl...model/corvette
I'm replacing the pan because the drain plug threads are stripped. I've tried using an oversize plug but it went in just slightly askew and leaks. No 88 oil pans are available so I've ordered an LT1 pan and will plug the oil level sensor hole.

I replaced the water pump last year so it should still be good.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 11:35 AM
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How about a coolio aluminum one fits your vette from summit?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...model/corvette
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarV
How about a coolio aluminum one fits your vette from summit?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...model/corvette
Looks like that would have been a good option. Too late, I already spent way too much for the LT1 pan.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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Send it back and get the correct pan.
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