I could not stand to spend the $200 on an OEM antenna. I had 3 that I have been patching and working on for several years and I no longer have enough good parts to make an OEM antenna work. I bought an aftermarket unit that has a ground (black) a hot 12V (red) and a trigger (Blue)

The car has a White (hot?) a Green (Ground) and a tan or yellow (trigger)

So I thought
Black = Green
White = Red
Yellow = Blue

Does not work - What does???

 

One wire is up , one is down and one is the common to the switching relay

 

Should be a detail that came with the new all original aftermerket antenna...
I bought one some yrs ago and it had some sort of drawing to guide the wiring...There were 1 or 2 wires from the original harness that were unused..I think because the aftermarket unit has the relay built-in and does not depend on the OEM relay in the harness to operate the system.
So, it should be pretty straight forward...a hot, a ground and a 3rd as the trigger.

 

Thanks but I saw the diagram is searching the forum - it is not helping me, I probed the wires and know which is hot. Also, the directions read - contact a qualified technician. So great comments, but not really hitting the question - thanks

 

So as Lee said above ,
a thinking person would be looking at using the feed from the radio as the trigger signal direct to the aerial,
bypassing the factory direction switching relay

 

At the antenna relay socket are the following wires.
White
Dark Green
Gray
Orange +12 volts hot all the time
Black is Ground
Pink trigger from the radio

Disconnect negative battery terminal before
splicing the following wires.

Splice new antenna Red wire to Orange wire.
Splice new antenna Black wire to Black wire.
Splice new antenna Blue wire to Pink wire.

The relay is no longer used.

 

exactly....

The "new" ant assy has its own up/down mngt system. The factory ant uses a relay to do this. So, you end up eliminating a couple wires. Use splice connectors, bite in the harness above the plug and splice the 3 ant wires to the harness. Do a "test" by simply sticking the wire ends into the appropiate position in the plug...key ON..radio on/off. See what happens.

I suppose with the number of defective OEM parts there is the possibility that the new ant assy is bad...but I'd power it up and make sure.

Note:
some guys when getting into this end up installing a switch to stop the ant trigger when the cassette or CD is used, so the antenna is not wasted when the radio is not on.

 

I did figure out the antenna and I learned this:

I bought the only replacement antenna I could find on a Saturday from Pep Boy’s. It is a Metra CF-PW22 www.metraonline.com. It was $59 and I think I paid too much. I was rebuilding the originals (I have parts from 3 of them) and just ran out of good parts and patience. The originals are poor quality and the replacements are $200.

Getting the old one out involves 2 10mm nuts on studs that can be reached with a couple of 6 inch extensions. I had to reach up into the top of the fender to a big black nut holding the antenna on. My forearms are too big, so I had to unscrew the inner fender from the outer and bend the lower lip out. The grip on the nut at the top is marginal. I was able to unscrew it, drop the whole thing out, then disconnect the wiring.

At the top of the fender there are 2 plastic parts – the black inset you can see from above, and a huge plastic chrome piece that screws into it. I have large socket set, and found a 1 7/8 socket fits. (big socket) A 18 inch extension on that huge socket allowed me to avoid getting a hand up that far.

I drilled out the black inset and used the package mounting hardware inside this. I did not use any other attachments – just attached at the top. There is a body ground strap and a black wire on the new antenna. I put both on the mounting stud for the original (10mm nut). (3 wires – one now connected)

The original wires go into the car right behind the outer tail light – The inner tail light can be removed (with difficulty) from the hole for the license plate. This means removing the license plate and the left backup light. There are 2 10mm bolts at 10 O-clock and 4 O’clock position on each of the lights. Total pain in the *** to get to. It is going to scratch up our arm.

Once the tail lights are out, there is a huge rubber plug just behind the outer tail light, with the wires running through the plug. The plug can be pulled out with the tail lights out and hanging down.

These wires go in two directions, the electrical runs under the back black plastic facade for the glass hatch. To remove the facade takes 8 Philips screws, remove the top latch handle and the left trim. Under this is a bunch of foam, under the foam is the antenna relay. The relay output is totally useless with a generic modern power antenna. I removed it and plugged the Orange car plug wire to the red antenna wire and the red harness wire connects to the blue antenna wire. The black is not connected. This pin out means the antenna goes up and down when the radio is turned on or off and up and down with the radio on and ignition on and off - perfect. This is the pin out connection I was looking for in the original post. It must be wired before the relay – under the black plastic facade

The antenna cable is hidden on the right side – it can be fished out, but it is tight. The connection unplugged and the new one plugged in – I taped it together because the GM connector in unique, but it does plug in, it does not lock.

Not a really easy job because of the amount that needs to be taken apart to get to the antenna and wiring.

I have pictures if anybody is interested.