Any better instructions out there for replacing weatherstripping? Like videos I hope!

 

You tube?
Search?

 

yeah nothing really out there

 

There's a GM weatherstrip training video for C4. I got mine on ebay for $20 or so. Well worth getting, its on VHS.
About halfway down this page I showed all the supplies needed.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...questions.html

 

To do it right...only takes a few easily available tools...

and some patience.

Rip out/dig/grind the old stuff out.

use a dremmel with a 1" wire wheel or close, to grind the tracks absolutely clean. This is critical. The new rubber MUST fit down in the tracks perfectly or it WILL leak.

Find new screws/ push tabs if that section has them. Not all do. A-pillar has a couple.
Press in the new rubber DRY ! No glue of any kind. This is a "dry-fit" to check the fitment. Start at each end of A pillar and secure that and work each side equally toward the middle. Its a good idea to secure the ends then do the middle. This prevents you from haveing too much left over in any single section. DO NOT pull or stretch as you tuck the rubber in. Use a bondo spreader to gently tuck the edges into the tracks. DO NOT use a metal scraper. That will cut the rubber seal/skin.
Once you have dry fitted the section and feel good about its fit, pull it out and use 3-M ONLY on the corners, ends and any spots that may have felt loose. There is NO NEED to glue it all. You MIGHT have to do this again some day.....
Use the glue sparingly. This beads, 1-2" long only. A little goes a very very long way with 3M.

Side of the top is challenging to get the rubber pressed in all the way. These sides are a very deep fit. The top will require someone standing on it so you can bolt it down the first time...after that it will be fine. These tracks sometimes need to be removed if they are tweaked or bent. Again, press the rubber in gently no matter how mard it is...a cut or tear will be a leak and a source of the rubber degrading early.

if no dremmel is available..use a small wire brush. beware the paint ! Point is to get the tracks sterile or it will leak.
Have fun!

PS
do not skip the dry fit and DO NOT abuse the glue no matter how good it smells !

 

Also.....go to the local home depot a pick up one of those cheapo plastic spackle knives; perfect tool for installing weatherstrip into the grooves.

 

Those are great for everything. I use them for so many car cleanup operations.

 

Experience gained from doing my 87. ELBOW GREASE! It took me, I kid you not, FIVE eight hour days to clean the mess that someone had made trying to "repair" the old W/S with silicon!

Cleaning the channels is by far the hardest and most time consuming part of the whole operation. As you clean the channels make sure you keep a rag at the bottom of the channel so the adhesive remover doesn't drip down onto the paint or get on your carpet.

W/S is intimidating stuff until you've done it once...then you never have to do it again

The hardest piece to do is the rear hatch, it's better done with two people. And as pointed out, don't go nuts on the glue.

 

The only UTube reference I found was one by MAM on hatch w/s installation and it was pretty good. For this one you can use a broom handle (or any stick) to support the hatch as you loosen in turn each strut rod to install the new w/s.

I have a post going on installation of the outer window sweeps which is great with pics and detailed verbal instructions.

When I did my prior '88 many years ago I used copious amounts of 3M cleaner and squared off popsicle sticks to scrape old adhesive from the header channels...

Also, be sure to have a warm sunny day for installation of new w/s and lay it out in the sun to well warm up. This makes it much easier to work with.

Good luck, and have fun.

 

VERY IMPORTANT

I forgot to mention this in my post. Be very careful about supporting the rear hatch. If that sucker comes down while you're working under it, it will cut your limbs off like a guillotine!

Fully open the rear hatch, cut a piece of 1x3 long enough to support the hatch, in the middle of the rear edge where the "D" ring is that latches the hatch in the closed position, then secure a short 'T" piece to the top of the support.

Position the "T' so it is locked in position by the 'D; ring that secures the hatch in the closed position. MAKE SURE it can not slip out. I even wired mine to the "D" ring.

You will not get a second chance if the hatch closes on any of your body parts!:

 

Do yourself a huge favor and buy OEM weather stripping not the less expensive stuff like I did and get a proper fit.

 

Need to do mine at some point, someone had recommended this weatherstripping tool kit. Just picked one up myself
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html