When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i used a crank pully i borrowed from autozone and it came out quickly. I think using a two jaw pulley would just jam it on the crank if i remember right. Mine was a pain to remove untill i used that tool.
If you can start the car, id let it warm up and then try to take it off.
You can aslo try to rotate the crank and try to pull it off in different positions.
I wouldnt beat on it if you can avoid it.
If its an LT1 you are probably pulling the hub against itself.
Mike
its an 96 lt1 but i cant even get the jaws on to pulley even inside the pulley the thing jams on cross frame member. yet i seen pics of it being done ???? ready for the BIG HAMMER..
i used a crank pully i borrowed from autozone and it came out quickly. I think using a two jaw pulley would just jam it on the crank if i remember right. Mine was a pain to remove untill i used that tool.
If you can start the car, id let it warm up and then try to take it off.
You can aslo try to rotate the crank and try to pull it off in different positions.
I wouldnt beat on it if you can avoid it.
cant run it water pump is off and opti is cracked in half, and soaked with antifreeze..
Last month I pulled the crank hub pulley. I used a 4 inch two jaw puller. I reversed the jaws to pull from inside the flange. I had to maneuver it around to catch and I put the center screw through the loop in the power steering hard lines. It took awhile but I got it.
Don't try to pull on the outside edge of the pulley as it is two pieces with a rubber layer between - you'll damage the rubber layer. I had to remove the radiator and fans - good reason to clean the radiator anyway.
You can also use the wooden block and hammer method from below. Do a search as there a few threads on it.
Just have patience and you will get it. Good luck.
On the LT1 the crank hub is two pieces - he is just trying to pull the outer section off the hub. I don't think those will work unless he is going to pull the entire crank hub. Since it is not keyed like earlier balancers he'll have to mark the position to get it back on correctly if he goes that route.
If your stuck with the balancer on the hub. Remove all three balancer bolts use a bronze or brass bar and a hammer and from underneath strike the back of the balancer then spin the engine a 1/4 turn strike it again spin it a 1/4 turn and repeat. If you have a BFH it should come off pretty easily. (Big Fine Hammer). If you don't have a soft metal bar a piece of hard wood should work in a pinch.
Theres a loop in the power steering line that will let you use a puller without removing the radiator and other such nonsense.
The damper is not pressed onto the hub, you must have rust or corrosion welding them together unless you missed a bolt.
MIke
Last edited by aboatguy; Apr 24, 2013 at 02:54 PM.
On the LT1 the crank hub is two pieces - he is just trying to pull the outer section off the hub. I don't think those will work unless he is going to pull the entire crank hub. Since it is not keyed like earlier balancers he'll have to mark the position to get it back on correctly if he goes that route.
Ah ok....i have the old chevy gen 1 set up on my 88. Sounds like his is a real pain. I bet he has no knuckles and no beer left by now.
If you use a gear puller you will pull the outer ring of your balancer .I don't know if I would trust it now or not,Better look it over were the rubber seperates the ring from the hub...you need a wheel puller,they bolt on in a Y pattern
Last month I pulled the crank hub pulley. I used a 4 inch two jaw puller. I reversed the jaws to pull from inside the flange. I had to maneuver it around to catch and I put the center screw through the loop in the power steering hard lines. It took awhile but I got it.
Don't try to pull on the outside edge of the pulley as it is two pieces with a rubber layer between - you'll damage the rubber layer. I had to remove the radiator and fans - good reason to clean the radiator anyway.
You can also use the wooden block and hammer method from below. Do a search as there a few threads on it.
Just have patience and you will get it. Good luck.
That's what i'm using now trying to get it off, and i think the thing is so rusted on is why its being such a bear!!! i sprayed the hell out of it with Pb blaster and letting it soak in, if i cant get the puller to line up I'll go to the hammer and wood method one way or not its coming off never say die..
thanks for all the input and help.
Hey Pastamike, I think the key is the PB Blaster give it a good long soak. I wouldn't bother with the puller i tried it before and it didnt work for me so i went with the dowel and hammer method. It wont be a pain to put back on just apply some anti-sieze for next time.
Have seen other post on this topic, even brought home harbor freight's
2 jaw puller set and still cant get this $%$@@%@@ thing off.
short of a lb of c4 on my c4 any other things other then jacking it up and hitting it with a wood n hammer???? Or is this the only thing left to do??
Cant even think how hard it will be to press it back on even if i ever get it off!!!!!!
You don't need any puller. Unbolt the pulley from the hub, there are just 3 bolts holding the pulley to the hub. Then from under the car use a 1"x1" piece of hardwood and a heavy hammer and tap the pulley off. Rotate the engine if necessary and also put the wood as close to the hub/crank as possible. Once off coat with never seize before re-installing. Bolt pattern is offset, so it will only bolt back on one way. You only need to remove the hub if you are replacing the front cover/seals.
Last edited by aminnich; Apr 24, 2013 at 06:15 PM.
You don't need any puller. Unbolt the pulley from the hub, there are just 3 bolts holding the pulley to the hub. Then from under the car use a 1"x1" piece of hardwood and a heavy hammer and tap the pulley off. Rotate the engine if necessary and also put the wood as close to the hub/crank as possible. Once off coat with never seize before re-installing. Bolt pattern is offset, so it will only bolt back on one way. You only need to remove the hub if you are replacing the front cover/seals.
yeah have the three bolts out, and gave up on puller soaked the crap out of it with PB BLASTER letting it soak over night, then get it off in the morning.
then clean the motor, and replace water pump, and opti, and the seals too.. ounce again guys thanks for all the input and help..