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Hi i'm putting headers on my 85 vet.
I was going to put the o2 sensor at the collector,
is that too far down the header.
where is a good location for a good read
Also looking for reference on who can burn a custom chip for a 1985 corvette.
many mods. Cam, heads, tpis inj sys.
85 is a stand alone year, lots of chip co won't burn it
Ideally, you want the O2 bung at the first available point after the collector so the sensor gets a taste of all the cylinders...not just 1 or 2.
Its not always easy with many headers...limited tubing after the collector...then its the flange and pipe. Too far downstream and the sensor gets cooled exhaust gas and a worthless read. Some folks use the self-heated sensor that comes in late model cars to solve this problem.
Can;t help with the chip. Many folks swear by PCM for less...may give them a call. I'm not a real fan of mail-order tuning...but it beats a blank. From what they say the investment to burn your own (if you read and understand geek) is not horrible...$600 or so. Then you can burn as many as different as you want for pennies each.
For a street car, putting the O2 sensor down at the reducer works OK. For my '87 I picked up an O2 bung (18mm thread dia), cut a 1" hole in the reducer and welded the bung in place.
Another thing that some people will do is to use a heated O2 sensor. They are easy to wire up; one wire for ground, one wire for the sensor wire and another for a 12v power source when the ignition is ON.
If you're doing longtubes and are putting the sensor by the collector I would recommend going the heated o2 sensor route. I did not at first on my '87 and it wouldn't stay closed loop while driving, it would swap back and forth a lot.
Definitely locate the O2 in the collector. A heated sensor won't be needed. I have mine located there with no open/closed loop issues.
PCM4Less won't burn an 85 chip. I had Ed Wright from Fast Chip do my initial burn. Then I invested in the hardware and software to make my own changes. It gets to be a real pain sending the chip back for a change. No matter who does it, you will need to be able to data log to fine tune. I started with WinALDL but I found that Tuner Pro RT was better suited.
From what they say the investment to burn your own (if you read and understand geek) is not horrible...$600 or so. Then you can burn as many as different as you want for pennies each.
$600 is pretty steep.
TunerCat has a bare-bones kit for the 85 for $200. But caution, the chip adapter needs to be soldered to the ECM board. Unless you are skilled at this I recommend you send the ECM to Moates and have them do it. I learned that lesson the hard way. Their soldering service is cheap. Also, I added a socket booster ($40), chip extender ($20), extension cable ($9) with Zif socket ($10) from Moates. That allows the chip to be quickly swapped without removing the ECM.
A better option is to swap the ECM for an 86. Programming capabilities are significantly improved and you'll have no problem finding a tuner to work on it. I've done the above and am now planning the ECM swap.
He is not in California. He will need a heated O2 if he drives in the winter.
I didn't realize outside air temperature had that much effect. It makes me wonder why there are Closed Loop Delay Timers in the .bin file. Since the O2 has to be hot to operate, I would think the delay is pointless. But then again, there are a lot of things in the bin file I don't understand.
Me too. I shortened up my delays quite a bit after going to a heated sensor. Cold air makes a difference. Watching my datalogs I can see what it needs.