C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Trans and torque converter questions

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Old May 4, 2013 | 09:24 PM
  #1  
captboatwrench's Avatar
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Default Trans and torque converter questions

I have my 92 LT1 out of action for a while to replace the old opti with a new Petris unit. Replace all the gaskets and seals on the oil pan,front cover,intake and valve covers. Install a set of Bosch 3 injectors from Fuel injector connection and a lot more parts that I don't care to spend time typing.
I also spent several evenings cleaning off 21 yrs of crud and grime out of the engine comp. I got dirtier in 10 minutes working on this car than I have in 26 yrs of working on boats
I still have some money left in my budget and am thinking of replacing the torque converter since I have experienced a slight shudder on accel while cruising.
So my ?'s are
When I pull the engine does the trans have to be supported? The Fsm says to remove the trans but I dont want to have to if I dont have to.
It also doesn't go into much detail on how the torque converter is attached. It looks as though it just slides into place. Is that how it is installed ?
I have a a lot of stuff taken off this engine so far and pulling the engine would only take a short time at this point.
Sorry for the long winded post just to get to my ?s

Thanks
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Old May 4, 2013 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by captboatwrench
So my ?'s are
When I pull the engine does the trans have to be supported?
The Fsm says to remove the trans but I dont want to have to if I dont have to.
If you drop the trans you have to support the engine
If you lift the engine out you have to support the trans
Is usual to drop the trans BECAUSE
you have to disconnect the C-Beam that mounts the rear of the trans and lower the rear of the trans in order to access the top bellhousing bolts to the engine
so you are already half way to dropping the trans out anyway.
With the bellhousing bolts gone there is nothing else connecting the trans to the car

Originally Posted by captboatwrench
doesn't go into much detail on how the torque converter is attached.
It looks as though it just slides into place. Is that how it is installed ?
The convertor connects to the flexplate with 3 bolts ( undo before spliting trans / engine ) ,
after engine and trans are separated the convertor slides on and off the trans
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Old May 5, 2013 | 09:13 AM
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for an upgrade converter, google the 86 corvette/S-10 converters. I believe they have the best stall speeds. They are the same (the late s-10), however, you buy a 86 vette converter, its most likey rebuilt. buy a S-10 one, and its most likey to be a new one. same part, different numbers If I remember correctly. The 86 was a "one year only" stall speed which I think is 2,600.
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Old May 5, 2013 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteoz
If you drop the trans you have to support the engine
If you lift the engine out you have to support the trans
Is usual to drop the trans BECAUSE
you have to disconnect the C-Beam that mounts the rear of the trans and lower the rear of the trans in order to access the top bellhousing bolts to the engine
so you are already half way to dropping the trans out anyway.
With the bellhousing bolts gone there is nothing else connecting the trans to the car


The convertor connects to the flexplate with 3 bolts ( undo before spliting trans / engine ) ,
after engine and trans are separated the convertor slides on and off the trans
Everything vetteoz said is mostly true. However, I've pulled my engine a couple of times without disconnecting the C4 and just left tranny supported.

If you use a long extension (mine is about 36 inches long) and an impact swivel socket you can hit the upper bell housing bolts without moving the transmission. Reinstallation with this method can cause swearing but more often than not it is relatively
painless.


It is very important when reinstalling the torque converter to ensure the converter is fully seated you should feel three distinct clicks if you don't rotate the converter during the install you can mess up the pump since the converter won' be seated and the flex place will force the converter into the pump.

I use a straight edge to ensure correct depth" from the bellhousing to the converter pads.



And when you have the transmission install I measure the distance from the converter pads to the flex plate, if the space is too wide you are supposed to shim with washers. I used quality SFI rated parts and had no issue once the correct converter was sent. If I didn't measure and check before installation I would have had to remove the tranny since that converter was not going in far enough and the converter pads where not lining up on the flex plate. I called vig and they had shipped the wrong converter.

Mike

Mike

Last edited by aboatguy; May 5, 2013 at 01:12 PM.
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Old May 5, 2013 | 11:28 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Everything vetteoz said is mostly true. However, I've pulled my engine a couple of times without disconnecting the C4 and just left tranny supported.

If you use a long extension (mine is about 36 inches long) and an impact swivel socket you can hit the upper bell housing bolts without moving the transmission. Reinstallation with this method can cause swearing but more often than not it is relatively
painless.


It is very important when reinstalling the torque converter to ensure the converter is fully seated you should feel three distinct clicks if you don't rotate the converter during the install you can mess up the pump since the converter won' be seated and the flex place will force the converter into the pump.

I use a straight edge to ensure correct depth" from the bellhousing to the converter pads.



And when you have the transmission install I measure the distance from the converter pads to the flex plate, if the space is too wide you are supposed to shim with washers. I used quality SFI rated parts and had no issue once the correct converter was sent. If I didn't measure and check before installation I would have had to remove the tranny since that converter was not going in far enough and the converter pads where not lining up on the flex plate. I called vig and they had shipped the wrong converter.

Mike

Mike
Oooooeeeeee sombody bought a Precision.....Good move
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Old May 5, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by T. Wayne Nelson
Oooooeeeeee sombody bought a Precision.....Good move
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Old May 11, 2013 | 05:26 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Everything vetteoz said is mostly true. However, I've pulled my engine a couple of times without disconnecting the C4 and just left tranny supported.

If you use a long extension (mine is about 36 inches long) and an impact swivel socket you can hit the upper bell housing bolts without moving the transmission. Reinstallation with this method can cause swearing but more often than not it is relatively
painless.


It is very important when reinstalling the torque converter to ensure the converter is fully seated you should feel three distinct clicks if you don't rotate the converter during the install you can mess up the pump since the converter won' be seated and the flex place will force the converter into the pump.

I use a straight edge to ensure correct depth" from the bellhousing to the converter pads.



And when you have the transmission install I measure the distance from the converter pads to the flex plate, if the space is too wide you are supposed to shim with washers. I used quality SFI rated parts and had no issue once the correct converter was sent. If I didn't measure and check before installation I would have had to remove the tranny since that converter was not going in far enough and the converter pads where not lining up on the flex plate. I called vig and they had shipped the wrong converter.

Mike

Mike
I have spent some time underneath the car studying the 2 top bolts of the trans bell hsg and believe that I can reach them with my extensions and and swivel socket.
what is the distance reading that you are measuring in your pic ?
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