C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1985 coolant sensor issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-05-2013, 11:17 AM
  #1  
Booncky
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Booncky's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Norfolk Virginia
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 1985 coolant sensor issue

Ok following the manual to the best of my abilities this is where I am at but it isn't quite jiving to me.



This is the sensor I was givin at car quest with a double ended pigtail to connect it up.


But I have found these two connectors coming out of the loom for the starter wires. The male connector is solid green white and the female connector is green.



Then at one point some one must of tried over riding the relay and the connector just dead ends over here.





So I have this sensor going into the left passenger side because I found a dead green wire coming out of the starter loom. Which I imagined is for the coolant fan switch.





Ive read enough to know if I get them wrong I will get false temperature indications and my fans might not even work.

Oh on a side note I didn't know if there is something that is suppost to be in these two holes around the oil filter.

Old 05-05-2013, 12:05 PM
  #2  
cumbercr
Melting Slicks
 
cumbercr's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 2,141
Received 66 Likes on 45 Posts

Default

The sensor between #1 and #3 cylinders is for the dash gauge. It has a single wire blade connector. The coolant sensor for the ECM is located on the front of the intake manifold. It has a 2 wire connector. The sensor located between #6 and #8 cylinders is the fan switch. It is a single round pin. It looks like yours might have been modified to turn on both fans. That's a common change.
Old 05-05-2013, 12:46 PM
  #3  
Booncky
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Booncky's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Norfolk Virginia
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

ok so the single blade sensor goes on the driver side and one of the two green wires should go to it. Then On the passenger side between 8 and 6 I am looking for the sensor that has a connector like the knock sensor. So probably what I have right now in cylinder 1 and 3 is the ecm sensor.
Old 05-05-2013, 12:59 PM
  #4  
cumbercr
Melting Slicks
 
cumbercr's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 2,141
Received 66 Likes on 45 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Booncky
ok so the single blade sensor goes on the driver side and one of the two green wires should go to it. Then On the passenger side between 8 and 6 I am looking for the sensor that has a connector like the knock sensor. So probably what I have right now in cylinder 1 and 3 is the ecm sensor.
The fan switch wire will be DK Green with a connector like the knock sensor. The gauge temp sensor connector had a Blue wire with a female blade connector. That wire then connected to a Dk Green wire.
Old 05-05-2013, 01:07 PM
  #5  
tunedport85inject
Drifting
 
tunedport85inject's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

Hi Booncky,at the end you have a shop manual...good

the dark blu wire and the green white are a 12 v and ground to energize relais and close the 12v supply to the fan motors as you can see from the schematics.This is the dual fan schematic.

the main fan is operated via ECM,in the tune there is a scalar for fan enamble temperature,the ECM uses the coolant sensor on the front of intake manifold to "read" the temperature,when it reaches the temp in the tune the driver inside the ECM feed the ground using the green white wire,this energizes the cooling fan relay ,it closes giving 12 v to the main fan motor( left part in your schematic).

Auxiliary fan motor is operated by auxliary fan relay ,but here the ground is feed to relay from the auxiliary temperature switch,again it energizes the relay,it gives 12 v to auxiliary fan motor,and it starts

quote "It looks like yours might have been modified to turn on both fans. That's a common change."

yep,they are using main relay to run both fans,the main and auxiliary...

fan switch


connector to fan switch (aftermarket)

Last edited by tunedport85inject; 05-06-2013 at 02:16 AM.
Old 05-06-2013, 06:05 AM
  #6  
blackozvet
Melting Slicks
 
blackozvet's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2009
Location: Adelaide South Australia
Posts: 3,347
Received 281 Likes on 216 Posts

Default

looking at this photo, the threaded hole above the oil filter housing is for the oil temp sender, there is a threaded hole above it which is an earth strap bolt, as for the hole on the left, is it a generic dipstick hole ?

Old 05-06-2013, 06:49 AM
  #7  
gerardvg
Melting Slicks
 
gerardvg's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 3,455
Received 188 Likes on 169 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by blackozvet
looking at this photo, the threaded hole above the oil filter housing is for the oil temp sender, there is a threaded hole above it which is an earth strap bolt, as for the hole on the left, is it a generic dipstick hole ?

Yes the 4 bolt block i that my 383 was built in had a dipstick hole between cyl 5 and 7. I plugged that up and used the std vette dipstick on the other side after i drilled the casting.
Old 05-06-2013, 05:36 PM
  #8  
Booncky
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Booncky's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Norfolk Virginia
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tunedport85inject
Hi Booncky,at the end you have a shop manual...good

the dark blu wire and the green white are a 12 v and ground to energize relais and close the 12v supply to the fan motors as you can see from the schematics.This is the dual fan schematic.

the main fan is operated via ECM,in the tune there is a scalar for fan enamble temperature,the ECM uses the coolant sensor on the front of intake manifold to "read" the temperature,when it reaches the temp in the tune the driver inside the ECM feed the ground using the green white wire,this energizes the cooling fan relay ,it closes giving 12 v to the main fan motor( left part in your schematic).

Auxiliary fan motor is operated by auxliary fan relay ,but here the ground is feed to relay from the auxiliary temperature switch,again it energizes the relay,it gives 12 v to auxiliary fan motor,and it starts

quote "It looks like yours might have been modified to turn on both fans. That's a common change."

yep,they are using main relay to run both fans,the main and auxiliary...

fan switch


connector to fan switch (aftermarket)
I appreciate it a lot. I found that sensor and now I have to wait over night for the pigtail. Im glad I have the all new sensors and now know where to place them.
Old 05-06-2013, 05:40 PM
  #9  
Booncky
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
Booncky's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Norfolk Virginia
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by gerardvg
Yes the 4 bolt block i that my 383 was built in had a dipstick hole between cyl 5 and 7. I plugged that up and used the std vette dipstick on the other side after i drilled the casting.
I made the mistake of paying a notable guy to just do the engine work. Not realizing that ment he would pull the block and machine it.. but not put back in any sensors. Thanks man for letting me know I have to go to orielys again. The dipstick I purchase from transdapt didn't fit in the standard port for the oil tube. So I took it to my shop and took it down ten thousands of an inch. Hopefully it will work now. Gonna have the car towed back to my house. But I sure do swear I will make a post for all sensors and wiring harnesses to help out future members.

Get notified of new replies

To 1985 coolant sensor issue




Quick Reply: 1985 coolant sensor issue



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:44 AM.