Are these compatible?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
Are these compatible?
Replacing clutch, and of course flywheel after 150K miles. Just wondering if anyone knows if there is a difference in architecture between the Spec Stage 1 kit, and the Carolina Stage 2 kit. There is a significant price difference, and I think I want the Spec light steel FW, but would rather not pay over $400 for the stg 1 kit.
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...te/1996/Single
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx
Thanks --Chris
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...te/1996/Single
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx
Thanks --Chris
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,365
Likes: 2,731
Replacing clutch, and of course flywheel after 150K miles. Just wondering if anyone knows if there is a difference in architecture between the Spec Stage 1 kit, and the Carolina Stage 2 kit. There is a significant price difference, and I think I want the Spec light steel FW, but would rather not pay over $400 for the stg 1 kit.
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...te/1996/Single
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx
Thanks --Chris
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...te/1996/Single
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx
Thanks --Chris
Internet shopping is much like "window" shopping, the buy can change dramatically once you "step inside"!!
With all the controversy over release bearings these days and the sourcing of components of both the vendors you mention I believe regardless of cost I might consider a "push style" conversion maybe by McLeod -
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
I certainly can't "first-hand" answer your question but when doing a "complete" package ie f/wheel and clutch if you don't do it from a single vendor and IF you have a problem you'll end up with both playing the "blame game". Decide just what you really want for a clutch and do a package from the single vendor. You need to do the research "on the phone" with their tech advisors and understand "before" purchase what you've bought.
Internet shopping is much like "window" shopping, the buy can change dramatically once you "step inside"!!
With all the controversy over release bearings these days and the sourcing of components of both the vendors you mention I believe regardless of cost I might consider a "push style" conversion maybe by McLeod -
Internet shopping is much like "window" shopping, the buy can change dramatically once you "step inside"!!
With all the controversy over release bearings these days and the sourcing of components of both the vendors you mention I believe regardless of cost I might consider a "push style" conversion maybe by McLeod -
Yes, I agree about the McLeod set up. Just way out of my price range at this time. Aftermarket slaves are a whole 'nother topic.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,220
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Replacing clutch, and of course flywheel after 150K miles. Just wondering if anyone knows if there is a difference in architecture between the Spec Stage 1 kit, and the Carolina Stage 2 kit. There is a significant price difference, and I think I want the Spec light steel FW, but would rather not pay over $400 for the stg 1 kit.
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...te/1996/Single
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx
Thanks --Chris
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...te/1996/Single
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx
Thanks --Chris
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...h+luk&_sacat=0
I'd get a LUK kit. (I did for mine.) Since they were the original manufacturers for our DMFs, it seems logicial to assume their clutch kits are reliable and well-machined. AFAIK, these would be NOS units too. (Unless LUK hasn't discontinued clutches -- after tossing the DMF manufacture out the window.)
If the TO bearings have gone downhill (and I don't know), then consider contacting ZFDoc or Jandick to get an OEM part -- if still available.
Also consider a new fluted, rifled pilot bearing...if you'll be replacing yours. Though you can clearly see a pilot bearing comes in this kit, the ZFDoc recommends the GM version -- assuming you can still get/order one. (I probably have the part# at home).
Not sure how I'd feel about the lightweight versus HW Spec FW. The later seems the only (and best) option to insure no/low ZF rattle. I'm thinking most people would choose refinement over a little extra power. Not everyone though. Depends on your future vision for the car I guess.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; May 6, 2013 at 02:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...h+luk&_sacat=0
I'd get a LUK kit. (I did for mine.) Since they were the original manufacturers for our DMFs, it seems logicial to assume their clutch kits are reliable and well-machined. AFAIK, these would be NOS units too. (Unless LUK hasn't discontinued clutches -- after tossing the DMF manufacture out the window.)
If the TO bearings have gone downhill (and I don't know), then consider contacting ZFDoc or Jandick to get an OEM part -- if still available.
Also consider a new fluted, rifled pilot bearing...if you'll be replacing yours. Though you can clearly see a pilot bearing comes in this kit, the ZFDoc recommends the GM version -- assuming you can still get/order one. (I probably have the part# at home).
Not sure how I'd feel about the lightweight versus HW Spec FW. The later seems the only (and best) option to insure no/low ZF rattle. I'm thinking most people would choose refinement over a little extra power. Not everyone though. Depends on your future vision for the car I guess.
I'd get a LUK kit. (I did for mine.) Since they were the original manufacturers for our DMFs, it seems logicial to assume their clutch kits are reliable and well-machined. AFAIK, these would be NOS units too. (Unless LUK hasn't discontinued clutches -- after tossing the DMF manufacture out the window.)
If the TO bearings have gone downhill (and I don't know), then consider contacting ZFDoc or Jandick to get an OEM part -- if still available.
Also consider a new fluted, rifled pilot bearing...if you'll be replacing yours. Though you can clearly see a pilot bearing comes in this kit, the ZFDoc recommends the GM version -- assuming you can still get/order one. (I probably have the part# at home).
Not sure how I'd feel about the lightweight versus HW Spec FW. The later seems the only (and best) option to insure no/low ZF rattle. I'm thinking most people would choose refinement over a little extra power. Not everyone though. Depends on your future vision for the car I guess.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,220
Likes: 446
From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
The only thing about these are that they are the unsprung discs for the DMF. Which I have thought about, but at 150K miles my DMF is probably about ready for retirement. Carolina Clutch has the whole conversion kit with a heavy steel FW and the above linked clutch for $695. But the lighter (22lb) Spec wheel seems like a nice alternative w/o going to alum. Some gear rattle wouldn't bother too much, as a tradeoff for better throttle response.
OTOH, I think Bill at ZF might tell you that reusing a 150K 1996 DMF isn't that big a risk. The springs will be getting weak but the seal isn't necessarily going to shoot craps for a few more years. Weak springs doesn't hurt anything...you might get some rattle with your hotcam, but it still runs smooth enough, I'm not sure. Ask him. Or ask Jandik at PowerTorqueSystems.
All you have to do -- if they say it's OK to reuse is clean with maroon scotchbrite -- readily available at auto parts stores.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
Well, weather's getting too nice to have the Vette on the sideline. So I pulled the trigger on the parts. Went with the Caroline STG2 and, flame suit on, the Ecklers SMF. For two reasons, the price of the Eckler's was pretty cheap, imagine iron FW. But this will give me a chance to see what I think of the SMF set up, then perhaps upgrade to Spec 22lb. Also, ther's a few tools I'll need to get, and want to replace the slave...again. Although, right now I'm kinda wondering if I shouldn't have just taken a shot at the DMF still being okay. 
Oh well, I just gotta get this done. First time doing this for me, so any tips or tricks beyond the FSM are appreciated.
Oh well, I just gotta get this done. First time doing this for me, so any tips or tricks beyond the FSM are appreciated.
