Okay, so my flywheel and clutch kit came in today. Looking to install first thing on Monday, my day off this week. Read through the FSM, and everything looks pretty straight forward.

However, questions:

Removing the shift **** and boot. The FSM says to use a drift, not sure what that is, and is the boot just clipped in and pulls out?

What size(s) are the bolts on the c-beam? I would like to get an angled wrench to hold the top nuts while turning the bottom.

The FSM calls for a special tool to remove the pilot bearing and to install the bearing, what are these called as far looking in the parts store?

What is the grease I should use for the pivot ball and release bearing?

I'm sure I will see it when I get in there, but how does the release bearing go in, in terms of the PP finger springs? Or perhaps I just missed this in the FSM.

Anyway, thanks in advance. I'm just trying to get ahead of the game as I will be renting shop space to do this and want have a clear picture and plan before going in.

Thanks, Chris

 

As far as the shifter **** removal is concerned for the ZF6, pry off the little piece of plastic with the shift pattern on it. You will be looking at a square peg. You must pull this square peg up (as in pulling the pin upwards - towards the roof of the car) to remove it and allow the shift **** to unscrew. You can normally get it with small vice grips - or you can drill a small hole in it and tap it, and thread a screw into it, but it needs to come out. (You can do this before you start the job - the car is still driveable at this point). The shift boot can be removed with the trim panel if you want.

As far as the "C" Beam - you can get a regular open end wrench up there, it's tight and you'll probably scratch up your hands, but it works - I don't remember the size - it's right around the size of the Bolt head on the bottom.

Once you get the four bolts off the "C Beam - you need to get it out. Even with the driveshaft removed - that isn't as easy as it seems. I've done a couple of C4 clutches - and what I do is to remove the two bolts that hold the "batwing" in place - this allows the whole rear diff Assy to move downward, and allows some room to get the "C" Beam out (the cars I worked on had coilovers - but I don't think it matters as far as the batwing goes. You'll need a 2nd jack under the diff to control it's movement.

To remove the pilot bearing - you will need a pilot bearing puller. The only thing that's unusual is that the hole through the pilot bearing in the C4 ZF equipped cars is pretty small, so some of the pilot bearing pullers don't have jaws that will fit through the hole - take the new pilot bearing with you when you go to get (or rent) a puller. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic (chassis) grease in the pilot bearing - but I'm using a roller bearing type pilot bearing - not the stock type solid bronze bushing (but it should work fine in that application as well).

As far as the release bearing - there is a semicircular clip that holds it in place. It's hard to describe in words - but it comes off easily, and the throwout bearing comes right out once the clip is off.

When you get the trans out (and it's a heavy gearbox), remove the six bellhousing bolts, but don't be surprised if the bellhousing doesn't want to come off - if that's the case - unscrew the pivot ball from the bellhousing (12mm Allen Head). That is sometimes required to allow the shift fork to release when the clutch is quite worn.

Two other pieces of advice - 1) there are two throwout bearing ID's, whcih fit the two different trans input shaft "collars" on the ZF6's. Your new throwout bearing should slide over the input shaft collar without a ton of clearance - just like the old relaease bearing does. If the new one has LOTS more clearance - it's the wrong one, and you need to get the correct one. 2) Putting the ZF gearbox back in is not the easiest thing in the world. It helps to have the ability to tilt the engine lower in the back - as this allows the shifter to kind of move into place without hitting. Putting the trans back in is a place where two people can come in real handy. And if the trans is real close to being in place, but just doesn't want to quite go all the way home - it's not too uncommon that the clutch disc is not perfectly centered. Sometimes a push on the clutch pedal - to release the clamp load on the disc will allow the gearbox to slide that last 1/4 - 1/2 inch into place.


GOOD LUCK !!!

 

Thanks Purple92, good info. I've actually seen the trans out and clutch out before, but that was along time ago, and I wasn't doing the work myself. But I know about the c beam difficulty. Thanks for info on the shifter, I'll get that prepped tomorrow.

I know my TB is correct as it has the plastic sleeve in it, these were added to fit the blue tags, so this is good. Looks like a good bearing.

I'm pretty sure the place has a transmission jack I can use. If not, I can use a floor jack and jack stands. The car will be on a lift, but in this case I'll just have to keep it low and crawl around.

It will be long day with lots of cursing, I'm ready for that. I just pray that complications are minimal.

 

I think your time line is a little optomistic, but I wish you well.

I didn't notice that you had acquired a dummy input shaft for aligning the clutch disc to the flywheel; most clutch kits include a plastic one; if not, be sure to get one.

If you use a bronze pilot bushing (check instructions first) do not grease it; bronze is self lubricating. If you use a roller bearing style pilot bearing, grease away (but do not overgrease).

One cheap item that will pay BIG dividends is to get (at least) two long capscrews the same diameter and thread as the bolts that hold the trans to the bellhousing. Cut off their heads and screw them into the bell housing; you can now hang the trans from them and use them to guide the trans into the bellhousing with out wasting a lot of extra time and effort trying to aligh the trans and bellhousing. Once the trans is seated, remove the headless capscrews one at a time and replace with the factory bolts.

One thing I can't stress too much, now, not later, is the time to check the clutch hydraulics. Before the trans is installed, but with the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing installed, and the dummy pilot shaft still in place, depress the clutch pedal. With the clutch pedal depress the throwout bearing should release the pressure plate allowing the disc to turn if you rotate the dummy pilot shaft.

Personally I'd call in sick and take Tuesday off. Maybe Wednesday too. Good luck.

 

Yeah, I'm concerned about the time line. I already have the shifter **** ready to come off and the console trim. So that won't cause any delay. The exhaust bolts are soaking in PB blaster as we speak. I know the C-beam is going to be a fight.

The car will be on a lift and I have access to a transmission jack and support jack for the engine. So this should help things out a bit.

The clutch kit came with the alignment tool and a bronze bushing. I have a bushing puller as well. The only real delay factor I've come across with this thing are those parts that had been untouched since it's trip from Bowling Green. However, the clutch fork and pivot ball were replaced a few years ago, and the clutch about six years ago. So nothing should be really all that bad in terms of rusted in place. Plus there's always someone around the shop willing to lend a hand or advice. But if it takes a couple of days, well so be it.

 

A very simple way to remove a pilot bering - no special tools required. Pack the pilot bearing area in the end of the crankshaft with grease - common chassis lube will work just fine, just make sure its full with no air pockets.

Take a bolt the same diameter as the transmission input shaft- (or just a tad smaller - but not larger!) and hold it next to the pilot bearing where the transmission input shaft goes. Grasp a hammer and "briskly" strike on the bolt. As the bolt rapidly moves into the pilot bearing, the hydraulics of the grease under pressure will force the pilot bearing out with no problems. Makes no difference if it is a bushing or a bearing - it will come right out.

 

Wow, what an experience. I really hope this clutch set up works well, because I have absolutely no desire to do it again anytime real soon.

Purple92, you were absolutely correct, one day was very optimistic, at least for a novice like me. I always seem to forget the litte things, like an exhuast bolt being rounded off, then the exhaust hanger snapping. The engine ground connector twisting into pieces. and don't even get me started on the #@$%^& C-Beam. Fun stuff.

@ anyone who has put a SMF in and ordered the Carolina clutch sprung hub disk. Nowhere on the disk did it say "flywheel side". Now some videos, I've seen (not Corvette) said that the raised side goes toward the rear, or transmission. However, when mocking up the conversion, well there was no way that would work. Also, the OEM disc, had the flywheel side with the spline gear extended toward the flywheel. So I did installed as such, since there would be no other way to do it. If this is incorrect, and you are positive, please let me know as the transmission goes in first thing in the AM.

 

I assume you guys are having to drain the trans fluid to make the trans light enough to handle; what fluid are you putting back in? I don't want to special order the usual fluids people recommend (GM / Redline / BMW), I want to know what the best approximation I could buy at the Pep Boys next door would be. Right now I just bought the heaviest weight engine oil I saw (20W-50) since ZF6's apparently like it that way, but I don't know what the conversion is between engine and trans oils. Is that close? Does anyone use normal oils when refilling it?

 

I put ams oil in a few months back, it's good. Didn't drain as I had access to a transmission jack.

 

The oil in the trans weighs all of what...4 lbs? Not a meaningful issue. One would be far more likely to drain it to prevent spillage.

Nice progress OP! Keep at it!

 

Good point, I guess I also wanted to kill 2 birds with one stone in case both the old fluid and the worn clutch were problematic.

I also started thinking new fluids because I should get one that is heavy enough to deaden gear rattle, as I'm putting in the light flywheel. So that's also part of what I'm trying to find: A common, storebought oil that's pretty close to equivalent to the usual oils, erring on the side of heavier grade / quieter. I just have no idea how to do the conversion, or if there's something particularly unsafe about not using one of the usual oils.

 

If you are dead set on using a thicker oil just use the Castrol TWS that ZFDoc recommends. You can pick it up at your local BMW dealer or find it online. I have heard mixed reviews on the Redline trans oils for the ZF. I am running amsoil here and love the smooth gear selection.

 

Well crap, I wish I had read this post better; all I took from it at the time was that the fluid isn't heavy enough to make the trans harder to lift or to bother with, which ended up just getting remembered as "don't drain it".

Got a nasty surprise when I pulled the driveshaft out and it started dripping. Afterwards while dragging / carrying the ZF6 away, most of its oil spilled on the front lawn (not mine), and I still think there is some left in it.

 

Rule of thumb, make sure you have trans fluid at the ready whenever removing the transmission.