radiator
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: petersburg il
radiator
1991 vet. i want to put a bigger rad. in to cure over heating what after market will fit without any fit problems thanks. i better tell more. iam running a mod. 406 30 over with brodex heads, carberated . with two stock fans. i just put a 14in. fan on the front of the rad. pushing air through and with all fans running all the time when the engine is running. the temp. at idle will go up to 240 and start to boil over in the catch can.when at cruse speed the temp. will run about 210 or a little hotter. there is no stat in the intake because the intake wont take one. i have cleaned the rad. and with no difference. i put 50/50 ant. and water mix, still no help. i have a heat gun to check the temps. so i know what the temps. are. when i turn the car off it wont start until the car cools off? i flushed out the rad. and block with no help either. any help please.
Last edited by 19774x4; May 26, 2013 at 11:07 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,351
Likes: 222
From: Delta B.C. Canada
2023 C7 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
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With a stock engine, the rad is sufficient unless it's all packed up with crap like the photo above, or if someone has gunked it up with stop-leak. Find the source of the over-heating before you start throwing parts at it. Look between the rad and condenser first. If there is obviously a lot of stuff in there, pull the rad, and rinse the fins. Also, what is the condition of your coolant?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
With a stock engine, the rad is sufficient unless it's all packed up with crap like the photo above, or if someone has gunked it up with stop-leak. Find the source of the over-heating before you start throwing parts at it. Look between the rad and condenser first. If there is obviously a lot of stuff in there, pull the rad, and rinse the fins. Also, what is the condition of your coolant?
A stock motor shouldn't need anything more then the stock type radiator... I have a Dewitt's aluminum in my 89 but Im running a 383 with a few mods and Im keeping my temps down around 180-185 degrees by altering my fan "on and off" tempertures.......WW
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,176
Likes: 673
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
A stock motor shouldn't need anything more then the stock type radiator...
After replacing my stock 86 with an OEM the eng temps were unmanageable for almost any driving at above 85 deg ambient.
Moving to an aftermarket is the best choice for our older cars.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 15
From: Austin, TX
I've change mydirty radiator for a 2row champion some days a ago after I modified ECM so that fans start sooner than before, now:
(primary starts running at 203F and stop at 194F)
(secondary starts running at 210 and stops at 203)
Nevertheless I have a problem.
When the car is iddeling and the primary start running at 203F once the temeperature decrease until 197F the car stay at that point all the time, so the primary fan is all the time running unlees you start running faster.
Could I have a failure in the 180F Thermostat or maybe just a wrong 195F one?
Before that, with old radiator the temperature when iddeling was all the time between 203F and 210F and only temperature decreased when both fans were running, but never less than 203F, that was when the secondary fan stopped.
(primary starts running at 203F and stop at 194F)
(secondary starts running at 210 and stops at 203)
Nevertheless I have a problem.
When the car is iddeling and the primary start running at 203F once the temeperature decrease until 197F the car stay at that point all the time, so the primary fan is all the time running unlees you start running faster.
Could I have a failure in the 180F Thermostat or maybe just a wrong 195F one?
Before that, with old radiator the temperature when iddeling was all the time between 203F and 210F and only temperature decreased when both fans were running, but never less than 203F, that was when the secondary fan stopped.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
I've change mydirty radiator for a 2row champion some days a ago after I modified ECM so that fans start sooner than before, now:
(primary starts running at 203F and stop at 194F)
(secondary starts running at 210 and stops at 203)
Nevertheless I have a problem.
When the car is iddeling and the primary start running at 203F once the temeperature decrease until 197F the car stay at that point all the time, so the primary fan is all the time running unlees you start running faster.
Could I have a failure in the 180F Thermostat or maybe just a wrong 195F one?
Before that, with old radiator the temperature when iddeling was all the time between 203F and 210F and only temperature decreased when both fans were running, but never less than 203F, that was when the secondary fan stopped.
(primary starts running at 203F and stop at 194F)
(secondary starts running at 210 and stops at 203)
Nevertheless I have a problem.
When the car is iddeling and the primary start running at 203F once the temeperature decrease until 197F the car stay at that point all the time, so the primary fan is all the time running unlees you start running faster.
Could I have a failure in the 180F Thermostat or maybe just a wrong 195F one?
Before that, with old radiator the temperature when iddeling was all the time between 203F and 210F and only temperature decreased when both fans were running, but never less than 203F, that was when the secondary fan stopped.
Kinda like what the Factory did,,,
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 348
Likes: 28
From: Houston TX
I replaced mine with a Be Cool Radiator. It works great and greatly lowered my running temperature. It now runs at 180-190 all the time as opposed to 220-230. The only issue that I had with it was the installation. You have to cut the rubber mounts holding the radiator in place in order for the new wider radiator to fit. Also, with the wider radiator it leaves a gap between the top of the shroud and the top of the fans. Supposedly if you buy the $100 install kit it removes the gap but thats a lot of money for a strip of plastic. Also the fitting for the top radiator hose was larger than factory. Which made getting the hose on very difficult. Build quality of the radiator was great though.
On another note, I would not go through all the hassle of removing the shroud and the radiator just to put a stock one back in again. Its just too much work for not much of an upgrade.
On another note, I would not go through all the hassle of removing the shroud and the radiator just to put a stock one back in again. Its just too much work for not much of an upgrade.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 15
From: Austin, TX
I would suspect that both the; Thermostat, and 203°f - 194°f "Dead bands" are operating too close to one another...i.e. radiator fan runs full time, and Thermostat modulates temperature. You can shake this up by installing a colder T-stat, or increase ECM/PCM (Fan) operating temperature.
Kinda like what the Factory did,,,
Kinda like what the Factory did,,,
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 668
Likes: 38
From: Austin TX
I have the 3 row Champion in my 92. Works way better than stock. I did have to put a hose adapter on the passenger outlet as was slightly too small in diameter. The hose kept wanting to slide off under pressure. Used a http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...0240/overview/ and worked fine. Those guys at Champion may have corrected that by now..
Last edited by mixalive; Jan 13, 2014 at 12:27 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,713
Likes: 105
From: Manassas VA
[QUOTE=corvetero;1583963955]
Nevertheless I have a problem.
When the car is iddeling and the primary start running at 203F once the temeperature decrease until 197F the car stay at that point all the time, so the primary fan is all the time running unlees you start running faster.
Could I have a failure in the 180F Thermostat or maybe just a wrong 195F one?
QUOTE]
Assuming you have the 92 LT1 in your signature, what you need is a 160 degree t-stat.
Let me try to explain why. Its the reverse cooling. Your factory stock 180 t-stat opens at 180 and lets the water into the heads. It then goes into the block with the heat it picked up in the heads.
This is the reason a LT1-4 will run as hot or hotter with a 180 compared to the L98 with a 195.
Again, get a 160 t-stat designed for the LT1 motor and with your fans set at the lower tempature you will be fine.
Nevertheless I have a problem.
When the car is iddeling and the primary start running at 203F once the temeperature decrease until 197F the car stay at that point all the time, so the primary fan is all the time running unlees you start running faster.
Could I have a failure in the 180F Thermostat or maybe just a wrong 195F one?
QUOTE]
Assuming you have the 92 LT1 in your signature, what you need is a 160 degree t-stat.
Let me try to explain why. Its the reverse cooling. Your factory stock 180 t-stat opens at 180 and lets the water into the heads. It then goes into the block with the heat it picked up in the heads.
This is the reason a LT1-4 will run as hot or hotter with a 180 compared to the L98 with a 195.
Again, get a 160 t-stat designed for the LT1 motor and with your fans set at the lower tempature you will be fine.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 15
From: Austin, TX
[QUOTE=93 ragtop;1583975036]
Assuming you have the 92 LT1 in your signature, what you need is a 160 degree t-stat.
Let me try to explain why. Its the reverse cooling. Your factory stock 180 t-stat opens at 180 and lets the water into the heads. It then goes into the block with the heat it picked up in the heads.
This is the reason a LT1-4 will run as hot or hotter with a 180 compared to the L98 with a 195.
Again, get a 160 t-stat designed for the LT1 motor and with your fans set at the lower tempature you will be fine.
I don't think that's the solution. More negative comments about 160F Thermostat were always posted than positive ones. I just guess that my thermostat is not working properly as it should a calibrated 180F one.
Nevertheless I have a problem.
When the car is iddeling and the primary start running at 203F once the temeperature decrease until 197F the car stay at that point all the time, so the primary fan is all the time running unlees you start running faster.
Could I have a failure in the 180F Thermostat or maybe just a wrong 195F one?
QUOTE]
When the car is iddeling and the primary start running at 203F once the temeperature decrease until 197F the car stay at that point all the time, so the primary fan is all the time running unlees you start running faster.
Could I have a failure in the 180F Thermostat or maybe just a wrong 195F one?
QUOTE]
Assuming you have the 92 LT1 in your signature, what you need is a 160 degree t-stat.
Let me try to explain why. Its the reverse cooling. Your factory stock 180 t-stat opens at 180 and lets the water into the heads. It then goes into the block with the heat it picked up in the heads.
This is the reason a LT1-4 will run as hot or hotter with a 180 compared to the L98 with a 195.
Again, get a 160 t-stat designed for the LT1 motor and with your fans set at the lower tempature you will be fine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,713
Likes: 105
From: Manassas VA
[B][QUOTE=corvetero;1583975619]
Its not the t-stat. Its doing what it should. Its you don't understand the design of the LT1. Why do you think it comes from the factory with a 180 vs 195 for other SBC? Its not a popularity contest, its what works and why.
Its not the t-stat. Its doing what it should. Its you don't understand the design of the LT1. Why do you think it comes from the factory with a 180 vs 195 for other SBC? Its not a popularity contest, its what works and why.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 348
Likes: 28
From: Houston TX
I have a 160 thermostat in mine. With the Be Cool radiator I mentioned above and a meziere electric water pump. It runs at like 180 degrees all the time. I will note that before I changed my radiator, I noticed absolutely zero difference running the 160 thermostat versus factory because it still ran at about 220.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,713
Likes: 105
From: Manassas VA
Are you sure you have a LT1-4 thermostat in the motor. I don't believe anyone made a 195 for the engine. 160 and 180 only. It is a different design and should look like the one in the link I have attached.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160-Degree-Thermostat-LT1-1992-1996-Corvette-SLP-Part-100224-/281099977871?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4172dd448f&vxp=mtr
But still, keep in mind, the LT1 will run hotter then the t-stat opening setting due to the reverse flow design.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160-Degree-Thermostat-LT1-1992-1996-Corvette-SLP-Part-100224-/281099977871?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4172dd448f&vxp=mtr
But still, keep in mind, the LT1 will run hotter then the t-stat opening setting due to the reverse flow design.
Last edited by 93 ragtop; May 24, 2013 at 05:58 AM.