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hello I have an 84 with crossfire inj. I am prepping for a rebuild/mod set up.
I am planning on a set of heads ported to a 202/160 with a 64cc chamber and I am having the shop port the intake to match to it as well. leaving the bottom end unmodified with new rings and bearings. i am looking for a cam to work with the stock computer with a Hack...
i am looking at this as a possibility but I wanna make sure i can in fact use it. I know I need at least 20 psi vacuum for this system as well according to a mechanic i talked to for the brakes to work properly. any info would be appreciated.
I havent heard anyone call something that can you explain it to me? are you talking about changing from hydrolic lifter to roller lifter? what is the benefit of doing such? I am trying to do this rebuild below $1200 and so far with the heads intake standard rebuild kit cam and comp hack i am lookin at 1100 doin it myself without remving the engine from my car.
You can do it with the flat tappet cam. I dont think there would be that much difference between a roller and flat tappet at that size/rpm range power wise.
That cam should work fine with 206-212 on a 110 LSA. Not sure where your mechanic gets that you need 20" of vacuum for your brakes to work. I have had cams that produce 12" of vacuum and the brakes still worked fine. You will have plenty of vacuum with that cam. I have an 84 with carb conversion and am using the Summit/Dart cast iron large valve heads. They are $630 shipped to your door and very nice heads. They are 72cc combustion chambers. 64cc heads will give you a little more compression ratio. Hope they do a good job of porting your Xfire intake otherwise the larger valve heads and new cam will not breathe very well.
the machine shop I am taking the intake and heads to have been in business for 25 plus years and have known the owner for most of my life I have faith in his ability. the mechanic I was talking to I think was thinking about an 82 or something because I have seen people talking about something similar on other forums about needs 19" of vacuum or something or other for their heads lights to function properly.
My understanding is that a higher Lobe Separation works better if you are using the stock ECM. The original one is 115 Degrees if I remember right, and your selection is 110.
I am nearly done with this conversion, so I actually have no experience with this specific setup, just a lot of reading. I am also going with 2.02, 1.6 heads with 64 cc chambers. My pistons are all .028 to .035 below the deck, so I should see a bit of help with the increased compression. I went with the Powermax h-266-2 grind, as this was the consensus on the Crossfire Forum when using stock ECM. I have already modded the intake, and also the throttle bodies.
I ended up pulling the motor. The dipstick was frozen in place, and I didn't want to dump the freon to move the condenser. Hope I can get all the wires in the right spot.
Lobe separation is going to tell you how long the intake valve and exhaust valve are open at the same time. A smaller lobe separation number means that both valves are going to be open together for a longer period of time. This is good for high end horsepower, but is worse for low end drivability (gas mileage, rough idle, low end torque) and working with a pre-programmed computer. I am not a cam expert by any means, and I am still learning about my '84 crossfire, but I wouldn't want to go any lower than a 110° lobe separation. No matter how much you port that crossfire manifold, the passage ways are tooooooo small. With the 110° LSA I would even want to go to a programmable computer to get a better tune. Check out: http://www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_Flash.php
Gwbutch, my research and your post agree very well. The OP says "stock computer with a Hack...". I understand that the Hack of the original ECM takes this to another level of cost and effort. I wasn't willing to do that, at least at this time. Do you have a feel for the cost and hours spent to Hack?
Ken, I know nothing about hacking the '84 ECM. From what I researched, it wasn't worth it. I got myself the new computer with the EBL Flash and have been happy with the programmability. For the different wiring connection, I replaced the old wiring harness with a Painless TBI wiring harness. My entire car was "hacked" together when I got it, and the wiring was in pretty bad shape, so I figured it would be best to replace it.
There are so many cams with the proper computer friendly lobe sep, (112 plus), that I would stick with one of those. Duration in the 210-215 range should have plenty of vacuum.
all of this is very helpful thank you all for your input.... the reason I am doing a hack on the comp (I call it a hack but is actually re-flashing your original comp to the specs set with a laptop plugged in to it.) is because I am going with a set up that is not seen commonly around here and so is few people who can help with it. the proper wire to hook up is roughly 175 on ebay. then the program is 50-90. I have a friend with a dyno where I can run it and tune it for optimum performance
Good luck with that DK2002. Let us know how it turns out. I am interested to see what kind of results you get from the dyno. I wish I had a friend with a dyno!
The stock computer in your car has never been hacked.
The earliest that I see is the 1985MY 1226870. More common is the 1227747 and 1228746
64cc heads may benefit from a larger cam to decrease the dynamic compression. I believe 64 cc heads put static compression a tad over 10.0/1. Maybe 10.3/1.
My 64 cc heads with a 210/214 at .05 114 LSA. XRam intake. Needed a tune badly day one of mod. Be prepared.....