Ok... I keep running this through my head, thought I'd get a second opinion before I did.

I don't want to buy a $200 chip just to change the temp for the fans to come on.

I don't want to mount a manual switch inside the car to turn them on manually, nor do I want to constantly stare at my engine temp and have to turn them on.

Has anyone ever installed a 200* switch in the cylinder head and run a ground wire to it from the primary fan relay, instead of a manual override switch?

Seems to me it would kill 2 birds with one stone. The wife can drive it when she wants, and I won't worry about her running around town with a 230* engine, I won't have to drop $200 on a chip I don't otherwise need, and it would eliminate the need to mount a switch inside the car.

Thoughts?

 

The usual method is to tap into the grn/ wht fan relay control wire so it runs to the computer and the new switch of your choice.
Switch runs the fan at new temp ; should it fail ; ECM runs the fan at stock factory setting
Be aware ,getting the plug out of the spare threaded hole in the head can be a pain

Maybe a lower temp than you want to go but a straight fit into the 3/8" NPT hole head
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...n_Accessories2

or you can pay double for one from a Vette specialist
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1984-1995.html

 

Just for the heck of it, check mid america, i know they sell a kit for 86, that have a lower temp thermo switch ,which i think is set at 195, they may have it for your year. Lets us know what you find.

 

I have a 1990 that had stock fans, I live in Phoenix (110-118) degrees in the Summer. I purchased a pair of Spaul high speed fans and had my mechanic set the on switch @ 200 degrees. The temps never hit 200, car runs cool and the fans work great.
The stock fans just did not have enough pull to effectively cool down the radiator/engine temps while setting in traffic.

Hope this helps

 

To All,

Consider which temperature sensor to select carefully as the two available (195 vs 200) should be selected based on the engine (L98 vs LT1).

The LT1 (1992+) is a reverse flow coolant system (cooled water enters at the thermostat and is directed to the heads first), contrasted to the L98 (84-91) which has a standard direction coolant flow (hot water exits at the thermostat from the heads).

This means the coolant within the heads (and any sensors mounted in the head) will read cooler on an LT1 (1992+) than on a L98.

On the LT1 (1992+), the analog coolant temperature gauge uses a sensor mounted in the passenger side head.

Also on the LT1 (1992+) the digital dash coolant temperature uses the ECT sensor mounted in the water pump.

On the LT1 (1992+) this different location of the sensors is what causes the difference between the two readings in an LT1 -- with typically the analog coolant temperature gauge showing a 10 degree cooler temperature than the digital coolant temperature on the digital dash.

This suggests for the LT1, the 195 degree add-on sensor should be used (note the 2nd link (Eckler's) has a 'similar items' tab, where the same unit is also available with a 195 degree sensor).

Whereas for the L98, the 200 degree add-on sensor (2nd link from earlier post) should be used.

Therefore, on the LT1, by using the 195 degree add-on sensor, it should cause the fans to come on roughly when the analog gauge reads 195 -- which also means when the digital dash reads roughly around 205.

So considering a 205 primary fan -on temperature- is much better than the ECM's 228, I am now considering this for my 1994 LT1 too....