90 C-4 A/C clutch engagement problem
The other thing. If the Freon is low, the clutch won't engage.
a 10mm bolt on the nose of the compressor shaft which
is torqued to 10 ft. lbs so it's easy to break loose. Removing
the serpentine belt and a snap ring will allow
the pulley to be pulled off and removing a 2nd snap ring will
allow the clutch coil to pull off.
The clutch pressure plate is bolted to the compressor shaft.
With your hand (engine off) you should be able to spin the
clutch plate with some resistance. If it's hard to spin the
compressor is frozen or going bad. If it spins ok fix the clutch
and monitor the system pressures.
Its pretty common if the compressor is siezed or has a very
high resistance the serpentine belt squeals or melts. The
question is what caused the rubber on the clutch pressure
plate to get damaged? Could be age, heat or was it was
caused by a problem else where.
Here's a video that shows removal of the clutch plate
and pulley. I'm pretty sure the clutch is only sold as an
assembly.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Jun 25, 2013 at 06:22 PM.
Make sure you check the Chevy Service Bulletins too. There is one that talks about 134a conversions, and it gives P/N's of compressors that have to be replaced.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Make sure you check the Chevy Service Bulletins too. There is one that talks about 134a conversions, and it gives P/N's of compressors that have to be replaced.
Recalled the error codes, and figured the system might need to be reset before it would allow the compressor to cycle. Sure enough, simply disconnecting the battery, waiting a few moments and reconnecting it produced a working, cold blowing AC system. The noisy compressor quickly quieted down, and even on very hot days, my AC is cold.
Interestingly enough, only the fittings and the receiver dehydrator accumulator were replaced. The system was evacuated of R12, and I'm told all the oil was also evacuated and replaced with PAG (if I have that right). Nothing was pulled apart but the accumulator hose connections. No orifice tube. No physically removing and draining the compressor. No new O rings.
Maybe the system will leak. Maybe it will stop cooling. Who knows. But it's been several weeks of very hot weather, with a clear roof to boot, and it's all working fine, for a total cost of $369.00
I wasn't aware the oil could be evacuated and replaced by vacuuming the system, but it did seem to work. The compressor is quiet, the air is cold.
And I avoided the cost of a new and unnecessary compressor by remembering the error codes might have to be cleared before the modified-now 134a system could function.
Hope this helps someone else here...
Recalled the error codes, and figured the system might need to be reset before it would allow the compressor to cycle. Sure enough, simply disconnecting the battery, waiting a few moments and reconnecting it produced a working, cold blowing AC system. The noisy compressor quickly quieted down, and even on very hot days, my AC is cold.
Interestingly enough, only the fittings and the receiver dehydrator accumulator were replaced. The system was evacuated of R12, and I'm told all the oil was also evacuated and replaced with PAG (if I have that right). Nothing was pulled apart but the accumulator hose connections. No orifice tube. No physically removing and draining the compressor. No new O rings.
Maybe the system will leak. Maybe it will stop cooling. Who knows. But it's been several weeks of very hot weather, with a clear roof to boot, and it's all working fine, for a total cost of $369.00
I wasn't aware the oil could be evacuated and replaced by vacuuming the system, but it did seem to work. The compressor is quiet, the air is cold.
And I avoided the cost of a new and unnecessary compressor by remembering the error codes might have to be cleared before the modified-now 134a system could function.
Hope this helps someone else here...
. I don't know if they can remove all the r12 oil by evacuating the system, I heard they had to flush the system and blow it out with compressed air, maybe that's what they did at the accumulator. Glad to hear it's working good and cold for you. I got away with around a $ 23.00 repair and it's been a week in around 110 degree heat and so far so good. I learn so much on Corvette forum Replacing the Accumulator gets rid of some - maybe a 1/3. Draining and flushing the compressor and then refilling it should get rid of another 1/3. The last couple of ounces are spread out in the lines, Evaporator and Condenser. Flushing the Condenser is pretty much impossible, so it's easier to replace it.
Replacing the Accumulator gets rid of some - maybe a 1/3. Draining and flushing the compressor and then refilling it should get rid of another 1/3. The last couple of ounces are spread out in the lines, Evaporator and Condenser. Flushing the Condenser is pretty much impossible, so it's easier to replace it.







