...WW
move ac compressor on 1987
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
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From: Columbia South Carolina
move ac compressor on 1987
Is there an easy way to move the air conditioner compressor forward so I can get the passenger side valve cover off 
. Thanks in advance.
tankman
. Thanks in advance.tankman
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: WV
....WW
Last edited by WW7; Jul 8, 2013 at 02:41 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
From: Columbia South Carolina
Only one way and it isn't easy....You have to move the A/C bracket forward enough to clear the end of the valve cover.. On my 89 I could undo the bolts on the bracket, unbolt the support on the back,remove the egr tube, and tilt the bracket forward far enough to clear, but you may have to undo the bolts completely, remove the belt tenioner to get it far enough forward to clear...The engineers really screwed that one up, didn't they........WW
....WWYep,they screwed it up big time.Thanks for helping me. I guess I'd better stop whining & get started looking for the bolts and other thingys.
tankman
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
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From: WV
Tankman, I just remembered , there is another way to get gaskets on the valve covers, but you have to have rubber gaskets on the valve covers now, and you have to use new rubber gaskets.. I think Im the original one that figured this method out, but I could be wrong....
...First remove the 4 bolts from the covers.. Then lift the cover up high enough to be able to reach under and pull the gasket out of the channel it rides in.(It will probably be tight but you should have room) Then pull the gasket out and up over top of the valve cover and remove it.. To get the new gasket on, go down over the valve cover all the way around with the new gasket, then slide it up under the cover into the channel where it belongs.. If your valve covers have glued cork gaskets on it now you can't do it because the surface has to be cleaned, but if you have rubber gaskets on the car now just do it the way I explained....If you have any questions let me know.....
...WW
...First remove the 4 bolts from the covers.. Then lift the cover up high enough to be able to reach under and pull the gasket out of the channel it rides in.(It will probably be tight but you should have room) Then pull the gasket out and up over top of the valve cover and remove it.. To get the new gasket on, go down over the valve cover all the way around with the new gasket, then slide it up under the cover into the channel where it belongs.. If your valve covers have glued cork gaskets on it now you can't do it because the surface has to be cleaned, but if you have rubber gaskets on the car now just do it the way I explained....If you have any questions let me know.....
...WW
Last edited by WW7; Jul 8, 2013 at 05:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
From: Columbia South Carolina
Tankman, I just remembered , there is another way to get gaskets on the valve covers, but you have to have rubber gaskets on the valve covers now, and you have to use new rubber gaskets.. I think Im the original one that figured this method out, but I could be wrong....
...First remove the 4 bolts from the covers.. Then lift the cover up high enough to be able to reach under and pull the gasket out of the channel it rides in.(It will probably be tight but you should have room) Then pull the gasket out and up over top of the valve cover and remove it.. To get the new gasket on, go down over the valve cover all the way around with the new gasket, then slide it up under the cover into the channel where it belongs.. If your valve covers have glued cork gaskets on it now you can't do it because the surface has to be cleaned, but if you have rubber gaskets on the car now just do it the way I explained....If you have any questions let me know........WW
...First remove the 4 bolts from the covers.. Then lift the cover up high enough to be able to reach under and pull the gasket out of the channel it rides in.(It will probably be tight but you should have room) Then pull the gasket out and up over top of the valve cover and remove it.. To get the new gasket on, go down over the valve cover all the way around with the new gasket, then slide it up under the cover into the channel where it belongs.. If your valve covers have glued cork gaskets on it now you can't do it because the surface has to be cleaned, but if you have rubber gaskets on the car now just do it the way I explained....If you have any questions let me know.....
...WWpain for me when it comes time to reassemble all of this stuff. I also have the passenger side runner off and will work on the drivers side runner in the morning.The drivers side valve cover is also off.
I purchased injectors from Jon over a year ago but never got up the nerve to try and install them so I'll be trying to do that now that I'm tearing everything apart. Thanks for helping me.
tankman
Le Mans Master
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Posts: 8,735
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From: WV
Wow...
. I thought you were just changing the valve cover gaskets... A few suggestions for when you replace the injectors , don't completely reassemble the intake before you test the injectors and rails for leaks. Once you get the injectors in , the rails hooked up, and the fuel lines connected, turn on the key to energize the system to check for leaks...There's nothing worse then putting it all back together, only to find out you have a leak..Also when installing the injectors use some Vaseline or clean oil on the O-rings to lube them, if you don't lube them they can roll over and not form a good seal...Good Luck...WW
. I thought you were just changing the valve cover gaskets... A few suggestions for when you replace the injectors , don't completely reassemble the intake before you test the injectors and rails for leaks. Once you get the injectors in , the rails hooked up, and the fuel lines connected, turn on the key to energize the system to check for leaks...There's nothing worse then putting it all back together, only to find out you have a leak..Also when installing the injectors use some Vaseline or clean oil on the O-rings to lube them, if you don't lube them they can roll over and not form a good seal...Good Luck...WW
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
From: Columbia South Carolina
[QUOTE=WW7;1584358479]Wow.... I thought you were just changing the valve cover gaskets... A few suggestions for when you replace the injectors , don't completely reassemble the intake before you test the injectors and rails for leaks. Once you get the injectors in , the rails hooked up, and the fuel lines connected, turn on the key to energize the system to check for leaks...There's nothing worse then putting it all back together, only to find out you have a leak..Also when installing the injectors use some Vaseline or clean oil on the O-rings to lube them, if you don't lube them they can roll over and not form a good seal...Good Luck...WW[/QUOTE
Thank you very much. I also did not know or forgot to remember that I should have pulled the fuel pump fuse and let the 'vette run out of gas before starting the teardown. I have also been getting fantastic help and advice from John A.Marker,leesvet,and MrWillys along with other forum members. I'll be trying to relieve the fuel pressure via the schrader valve tomorrow or the next day. I've got to find some fuel line caps before I start. I'll keep you posted & I know I'll be asking for more help/advice.
tankman
. I thought you were just changing the valve cover gaskets... A few suggestions for when you replace the injectors , don't completely reassemble the intake before you test the injectors and rails for leaks. Once you get the injectors in , the rails hooked up, and the fuel lines connected, turn on the key to energize the system to check for leaks...There's nothing worse then putting it all back together, only to find out you have a leak..Also when installing the injectors use some Vaseline or clean oil on the O-rings to lube them, if you don't lube them they can roll over and not form a good seal...Good Luck...WW[/QUOTEThank you very much. I also did not know or forgot to remember that I should have pulled the fuel pump fuse and let the 'vette run out of gas before starting the teardown. I have also been getting fantastic help and advice from John A.Marker,leesvet,and MrWillys along with other forum members. I'll be trying to relieve the fuel pressure via the schrader valve tomorrow or the next day. I've got to find some fuel line caps before I start. I'll keep you posted & I know I'll be asking for more help/advice.
tankman
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: San Diego, Ca
Actually it's fairly easy to move the compressor. Unbolt the backet and then the Accumulator - it all goes forward and to the side as a unit. Just don't bend any of the hard lines.
I use vacuum line hose covers on fuel lines. Assortmonts are available at any Discounter. Just pick the size that works; ie, one with a snug fit. It also helps to remove the FP fuse first and then run it until it stalls.
I use vacuum line hose covers on fuel lines. Assortmonts are available at any Discounter. Just pick the size that works; ie, one with a snug fit. It also helps to remove the FP fuse first and then run it until it stalls.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
From: Columbia South Carolina
Actually it's fairly easy to move the compressor. Unbolt the backet and then the Accumulator - it all goes forward and to the side as a unit. Just don't bend any of the hard lines.
I use vacuum line hose covers on fuel lines. Assortmonts are available at any Discounter. Just pick the size that works; ie, one with a snug fit. It also helps to remove the FP fuse first and then run it until it stalls.
I use vacuum line hose covers on fuel lines. Assortmonts are available at any Discounter. Just pick the size that works; ie, one with a snug fit. It also helps to remove the FP fuse first and then run it until it stalls.
I went to Autozone and the counter person said he would not use the vacuum line covers because they might leak.I appreciate your help though,and the scoop on which way the the a/c unit moves.
tankman
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: WV
It's more of a syphoning effect then pressure on the lines that makes the fuel come out.....WW
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
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From: Columbia South Carolina
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: WV
...Like I said , make sure you block them off....WW
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
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From: Columbia South Carolina
Im not sure about jacking it up, but just make sure you block off the gas lines some how... When I put my new motor in at my buddys garage we didn't block off the fuel lines and when we came in the next morning to complete the install, there was about 15 gallons of gas in the pit under the car.....Like I said , make sure you block them off....WW
...Like I said , make sure you block them off....WWOkay,I will make sure. Thanks again for helping me.
tankman
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: San Diego, Ca
I forgot to mention that you should remove or loosen the gas gap. Siphoning is caused by a pressure differential and gravity. The pressure is created in a closed system by heat; ie, a rise in ambient. Also helps to work in a garage or somewhere where the sun isn't beating down on the rear of the car. Anyway, unscrewing the gas cap opens the system and with the fuel lines pointing upward, gravity shouldn't be a problem.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
From: Columbia South Carolina
I forgot to mention that you should remove or loosen the gas gap. Siphoning is caused by a pressure differential and gravity. The pressure is created in a closed system by heat; ie, a rise in ambient. Also helps to work in a garage or somewhere where the sun isn't beating down on the rear of the car. Anyway, unscrewing the gas cap opens the system and with the fuel lines pointing upward, gravity shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for the tip. I'm still mulling over what size rubber plug to get for the fuel lines. The 'vette is in the garage.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
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Tank...the counter guy is the counter guy 'cause he ain;t swift enough to make do with whats available and he's certainly NEVER done what you are doing...
get the vac boots/caps. Slip them over the ends of the steel line and IF they try to come off...use some thin stainless safety wire to tie around them to hold them on the line like a hose clamp.. hell, you could even use a small fuel inj hose clamp to hold them.
get the vac boots/caps. Slip them over the ends of the steel line and IF they try to come off...use some thin stainless safety wire to tie around them to hold them on the line like a hose clamp.. hell, you could even use a small fuel inj hose clamp to hold them.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 924
Likes: 0
From: Columbia South Carolina
Tank...the counter guy is the counter guy 'cause he ain;t swift enough to make do with whats available and he's certainly NEVER done what you are doing...
get the vac boots/caps. Slip them over the ends of the steel line and IF they try to come off...use some thin stainless safety wire to tie around them to hold them on the line like a hose clamp.. hell, you could even use a small fuel inj hose clamp to hold them.
get the vac boots/caps. Slip them over the ends of the steel line and IF they try to come off...use some thin stainless safety wire to tie around them to hold them on the line like a hose clamp.. hell, you could even use a small fuel inj hose clamp to hold them.
Okay,thanks.