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I'm in the middle of a job changing injectors on my '89 convert. While looking at it this morning, I found a wire that appears to have been broken off sometime in the past. I have no clue as to where it is supposed to be connected.
It exits a loom of wires adjacent to the second injector from the rear on the passenger side. It starts out as a green wire, then goes to a plug and changes to a black wire. See picture . . .
I also noticed a weird looking item just to the rear of the fuel rail. It looks like it is attached to the insulated pipe(?) that runs over the rear of the valve cover. It has a sharp stub on the top, as if perhaps there used to be a wire soldered on to it. Could that be where the black wire was connected? If so, it's sure lacking any strain relief.
I'm kinda hoping this could have something to do with my inoperative cruise control, but doubt I could get that lucky. Anybody have an idea where this was connected?
Last edited by Cap'n Rich; Jul 9, 2013 at 01:18 PM.
That may be the wire for the EGR temp sensor which is that thing in the back in the small box you drew. Not sure though. On my 88, the wire was broken off of the temp sensor too, but mine came in from a harness against the firewall. And I believe it is green.
Haven't looked at my 88 in a while since I got my 96 LT1 in March.
That's the wire for the EGR temperature switch. There's no strain relief on the wire and it's very easy to break it off.
The inoperative cruise control might be a bad vacuum check valve (by the distributor on the driver's side). There's also a vacuum break switch which is on the brake pedal on automatic cars or the clutch pedal on manual trans cars. Check all those vacuum lines.
On my 88, the wire was broken off of the temp sensor too, but mine came in from a harness against the firewall. And I believe it is green.
The Grn wire to the EGR Temp Sensor has a connector behind the dist that is nearly impossible to reach so some just cut the wire near the sensor and add a connector or splice when installing a new connector, as I did.
That's the wire for the EGR temperature switch. There's no strain relief on the wire and it's very easy to break it off.
The inoperative cruise control might be a bad vacuum check valve (by the distributor on the driver's side). There's also a vacuum break switch which is on the brake pedal on automatic cars or the clutch pedal on manual trans cars. Check all those vacuum lines.
I suppose that switch gets hot, so using heat shrink tubing to provide a strain relief probably wouldn't work. I wonder if the wire was soldered, spot-welded or crimped to the EGR temp switch? I'll try to get it re-attached before reassembling the injector job. Perhaps I should cut the black wire and splice in a piece of new wire that isn't all heat and work-hardened from age. That and use a double-female crimping splice to reattach it to the EGR switch.
Thanks for the tips on the Cruise control. I'll save them for another day after this injector job is successful. Hopefully today.
I suppose that switch gets hot, so using heat shrink tubing to provide a strain relief probably wouldn't work. I wonder if the wire was soldered, spot-welded or crimped to the EGR temp switch?
The wire is crimped to the switch.
It does get pretty hot, but only while the ECM is commanding EGR, so heat shrink shouldn't be a problem. My recollection is that the crimped part can be unscrewed from the switch, so you might be able to remove it and reattach the wire. There is some kind of calibration involved with how deeply it's screwed into the switch, so maybe counting how many turns it takes to bottom it out before removing would help get it back in the correct place. There was a thread on here several years ago on turning the screw to adjust the temperature that the switch operated at.
The connector is pretty much buried behind the distributor and I have heard of people adding wire to get it to an accessible place. I rerouted the wiring when I had my distributor out and it is now much easier to get to. I put some silicone grease in the connector and it made a BIG difference in the effort required to get the connector apart.
I see what you guys are saying. This is (as usual) more than meets the eye ate first glance. Well, I'll get around to this soon. Right now I think I'm just going to enjoy our month or so of Summer. The car has been sitting for a year or so and really just needs to be driven.
Thanks for the info and I will copy your advice to a .doc file and stick it in my Corvette folder.