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Hey all. I was asking around about pricing for a 383 and have a few questions that I was too embarrased to ask over the phone. :o One of my options would be to go with a new engine - 4 bolt main. Or, I can use my L98 - 2 bolt main. Right? Is there really a big difference? If so, what is the difference? I don't have prices back yet but I think the cost of doing my L98 would be much cheaper...
It really depends on how much powre you're going for. Actually, your 2-bolt block can be machined for splayed-bolts which makes it even stronger than a standard 4-bolt configuration. I'm not sure what the cost would be, but its a good question for your engine builder.
The key is to find a shop you're comfortable with and let them help you with the whole combination. Your question certainly isn't a stupid one!
Thank you. I'll ask that "splayed" question. I'm looking for 450-500 horsepower at the crank... Once I have the engine, I think it will be easy to build around it to lay enough horsepower at the wheels...
2 or 4 bolt all depends on the power you want and how you plan to get it. Nitrous and forced induction require more strength for the same hp level than NA engines. Your engine builder can probably tell you what he recommends. I don't think it is a stupid querstion to ask a builder. New blocks are cheap, so don't worry about the cost of a new block when building an engine. However, racing blocks are expensive.
A 2 bolt with a 4 bolt splayed conversion is good for well over 500 rwhp even with blower or nitrous. There was a thread a couple days ago on the splayed bolt conversion.
i'd go the splayed 4-bolt route on your old block. When i was looking into doing my old l98 last yera, i was gonna do that. the machine shop didn't want too much to do it...
As Mark said, your 2 bolt main engine can be modded for splayed bolts which are indeed stronger than a typical 4 bolt main engine. 450-500 crank hp is around 400-450 rwhp , generally , and a splayed end cap bottom end should easily be able to handle that.
The biggest probs usually occur with continued high rpm use on a relatively high hp engine like you are talking about. Road racers , circle trackers etc. would see sustained high rpm usage......but you probably wont for a street car. Using your L98 will probably be your best bang for the buck way to approach this.........good luck.
Oh, if you want to speak to an EXCELLENT AND VERY KNOWLEDGABLE engine builder , call HK Enterprises at 979-968-9604 and ask for Erik. I have known him for 20 years and he is a long time racer and co owner of his own high perf machine shop (also a member of this forum, racer7088 , I think) , the most knowledgable engine guy I have ever met. :seeya
Here's somthing else to concider. The older blocks where cast with thicker webs and walls. The 383 will require .030 over bores, unless you want to go even bigger. I bored my block .060 over (long story) but we went with an old sbc cast pre 1972. We hope to have no over-heating problems ? ? ?
Great! Thanks guys.. I have plenty to go on when I talk to these people now... I'll never need more than 500 horsepower at the wheels. After I hit high 11's or low 12's, I'm satisfied for good...
I took your advice and shot Chris(Lcvette@aol.com) and email. He sent me back some very good info and I plan on giving him a call today
Sal,
I would advise you to do the same. He(Chris) and I are building the same type of motor and he has some very good ideas on how to get there. Although I'm looking to put 500+ to the rear wheels for a 10.xx car I am sure he would have some good input on your goals..
You would be fine and dandy with a 2 bolt cast crank 383. RPM motors typically require steel cranks and the like. I went a little overboard with mine(steel crank, oliver billet rods-forged slugs) but am glad I did for piece of mind. Sorry if that sounds contradictory.
Tuning is going to be your most important issue with the new engine. I'm sure you'll get a lot of feedback from this forum when the time comes! Good luck on your decision and keep us updated.
Great! Thanks guys.. I have plenty to go on when I talk to these people now... I'll never need more than 500 horsepower at the wheels. After I hit high 11's or low 12's, I'm satisfied for good...
When I was considering using my stock block I bought some Oliver splayed caps and ARP bolts and the cost exceeded a good 78, 010 (high nickel) 4 bolt block. I would just find a good truck block for $250 and leave your stock engine intact if you ever need it. :yesnod:
When I was considering using my stock block I bought some Oliver splayed caps and ARP bolts and the cost exceeded a good 78, 010 (high nickel) 4 bolt block. I would just find a good truck block for $250 and leave your stock engine intact if you ever need it. :yesnod:
Exactly, I am going to get a good Camaro block for my project get it splayed, and go from there. My original engine will stay just that for the future if i ever sell the car...
splay the 2 bolt, a seasoned torque plate line honed machined block is definatly better than a new block. no if ands or butts. the machine work is more exact.
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