U-joint replacement
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas Nevada
U-joint replacement
Hey guys,
About to remove my halfshafts to replace the universal joints.
As usual, I wanted some advice on the process before I begin in about an hour or so. I'm taking the shafts to work tomorrow since I'll have time to press out the old and new joints.
First question... I bought some general Duralast u-joints that can be re-greased but it also says on the packaging that they need to be greased before use, but I'm confused because there is already some lubrication/substance under the caps on the u-joints.
Should I still grease them or leave them with the substance inside?
Anyways, I'm using this guide (http://www.robhealey.com.au/Corvette/scorp/) because it's the easiest to understand and has nice colorful pictures. However, I'm still not excited about this job because I hate touching the suspension since I just had my alignment corrected!!!
About to remove my halfshafts to replace the universal joints.
As usual, I wanted some advice on the process before I begin in about an hour or so. I'm taking the shafts to work tomorrow since I'll have time to press out the old and new joints.
First question... I bought some general Duralast u-joints that can be re-greased but it also says on the packaging that they need to be greased before use, but I'm confused because there is already some lubrication/substance under the caps on the u-joints.
Should I still grease them or leave them with the substance inside?
Anyways, I'm using this guide (http://www.robhealey.com.au/Corvette/scorp/) because it's the easiest to understand and has nice colorful pictures. However, I'm still not excited about this job because I hate touching the suspension since I just had my alignment corrected!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,366
Likes: 2,733
He shows just scoring the eccentric to mark camber but I believe I'd mark the eccentric and also remove the camber/control arm by unbolting the bracket from the differential rather than separating the arm from the bracket.
I just glanced at the overall procedure - didn't spend much time with it at all. Wire brush all of the threaded parts before assembly. Yes generally when you remove the cap from the "new" to insert it into the yoke you use grease with your finger and insert it into the cap to keep the needles in place. DO NOT use white lithium lube use real grease/wheel bearing stuff.
If your joints have zerks - yes after they're pressed in the yokes give them some grease with the caps secured on the two that aren't secured yet to the hub or differential.
I just glanced at the overall procedure - didn't spend much time with it at all. Wire brush all of the threaded parts before assembly. Yes generally when you remove the cap from the "new" to insert it into the yoke you use grease with your finger and insert it into the cap to keep the needles in place. DO NOT use white lithium lube use real grease/wheel bearing stuff.
If your joints have zerks - yes after they're pressed in the yokes give them some grease with the caps secured on the two that aren't secured yet to the hub or differential.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas Nevada
/\ $9 u-joints 
Besides... I'm not abusing my C4, yet. I know they're not much more per unit, but I'm testing the durability of the cheap stuff and seeing how far it can go with my normal driving.
I do the same with my guns... if it feeds, shoots, and hits with the cheap stuff, then it'll definitely work with the expensive stuff.
Besides... I'm not abusing my C4, yet. I know they're not much more per unit, but I'm testing the durability of the cheap stuff and seeing how far it can go with my normal driving.
I do the same with my guns... if it feeds, shoots, and hits with the cheap stuff, then it'll definitely work with the expensive stuff.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
A lot of the Duralast parts absolutely suck...garbage, crapola. I managed wholesale parts stores for about 10 years and never ran across worse crap. I've also had my u-joints replaced 3 times and the cheap joints only last a few years. Haven't done them again since I replaced them with Spicers. And I don't beat on my car. It's too big a job to do to skimp with cheap parts.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas Nevada
Few years??? That's fine with me. I have a problem replacing parts every year, or sooner. Honestly, I went with known brands for a few parts on my C4 and they've already failed, or are beginning to fail. The Duralast parts are still doing their part. I trust your judgment and share your opinion on "get what you pay for" for certain things, I'm just experimenting. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 917
Likes: 25
From: College Station Tx
I think this has been discussed before, but when I did my U-joints, I didn't touch the camber bolt. I removed the lower knuckle bolt, put the tire back on, and pulled it away to separate the u-joint from the strap.
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