I have been using 8 cylinder memcals for years to program for Camaro's, Corvette's, and custom conversions. You can no longer buy new mass air memcals, so I buy what I call blanks from E-Bay. I've been buying up all the new speed density ones I can find at reasonable prices, but I see these coming to an end soon too.

My point is it doesn't matter what the original application was for as long as it is from a V8 TPI either mass air, or speed density. His car should run with his base memcal even if it's from a 305 Camaro. It may not run well, but it should run. I've put speed density 305's in mine and it runs.

Also, 6 cylinder memcals from speed density can be jumpered to run and not set code 41. It's my understanding that they don't process the ESC circuit properly. I currently have one of these in my vehicle that drives well using AXCR as my base. It's the guys who just turn off the code 41 flag in the programming that are not jumpered that are selling these as V8 that should be shot for deception. I won't name any names, but you'd be surprised at the large companies that have done this.

To the OP: With this understanding, as long as your memcal is good, and used with an adapter you should have no problems. Have you removed the blue cover to make fitment into the ECM easier?

 

to midnight85--
thanks for the support and encouragment although im not really looking for back patting, was more just a rant brought on by the frustration of spending hours searching and reading threads/posts all over the net only to find that most just end with no answer or solution(followthrough).

and to mrwillys-- thanks for that info as well all good to know.

btw i also found out that the 165 ecm seems to have a way to tell you if its happy with a chip even before starting/running the car(happy as far as readable, understandable) . when you first turn the key on the check engine light will come on then flash off then on very quickly, im told this is some sort of verifying(idk what it verifies exactly durring this time though but seems true) a totally junk burn usually results in the check engine light just lighting when key is turned on with no quick pulse off then on.

 

time for a little update that may help someone else in the 870-165 swap in the future..
after doing som data logging testing out what settings the car seemes to like best an odd problem started rearing its ugly head...
i would turn the key on with engine off to look at all the sensor data on the lappy before to see if the base/startout readings were correct before starting it and logging it running, they were all ok. then started it and logged everything fine then all of a sudden the ecs(engine coolant sensor) would instantly jump to around 230-250deg f then for every deg raise the dash displayed so did the sensor. ex:ecs jump to 240 dash at 160 then when dash went to 161 the ecs would go to 241 etc.

kinda seems like its working but out of specs right, wrong.. after checking the wires for correct voltage and continuity i replacing the ecs, all seemed well untill yep happened again(keep in ming it wouldnt stay this way, totally intermitent but seemed temp associated).

anyhow to cut through the chase and save someone the same headache i found the issue, it was with black wire going to d2 on the ecm(old D12 to D2), .... this is one of the wires you must repin during the swap, problem was the wire seems almost too short and apparently dosnt only seem too short apparently it is, the wire reaches and goes in its new home on the ecm connector(but is a lil tight) but for some reason without moving the ecm in the least bit i guess its connection would become compramised enough to not have a faulty signal path(not open and not shorted) just faulty enough to cause problems but not all the time and not bad enough to be an easy find..

solution: extend the wire slightly along with one or two others that are on the edge of being long enough just to keep similer from happening on others later.

so my advise on doing the swap is if a wire is a close fit just extend it a little and probably save alot of hair pulling in the future.

hope this helps someone

 

I don't know the color now, I'm not in the garage. Are you speaking of the old D2 which goes to C1 or the new D2 that came from D12?

 

the old D12 that is now in the D2 spot
guess i should edit a bit as its confusing quoting the cercuit number and all..

hope that is clearer now

 

figured i would just document what the cts issue looks like on the datalog.. this is using the arap bin timing on car was set at either 8 or 10 deg but wasnt changed on the chip as i was just playing with timing for a hard start issue as well.
pill probably need to watch these full screen to see them.

also i'm going to put up a vid after the cts was fixed again just playing, this one timing is at 6* . only other thing i can think of to tell about it is i belive there is a mistake where i say less knock counts starting at lower timing, what i ment to say is less at higher adv. then lower. also some questions and comments in it that maybe a tunner could answer or explain.

looking like i'm about done with this thread, soon will have to mark this completed and move into the scan and tune section next.

 

... How much does aggravation cost ? ... you should have switched to a Holley Commander 950 or better yet , a Holley HP controller ... they are Sooo much easier to tune than the OEM stuff and the 950's are quite affordable ... and they just run the engine , you leave the stock ECM in to run the rest ............ just sayin' .......

 

Good read, Many props to ladystoy69 for keeping the thread updated with good info.

 

Here's the problem with the stock ARAP as I understand this application. Once fully warmed it has an idle speed set to 575 rpm. The spark table gives it 20 + 6 initial at idle for 26 degrees. At 3200 WOT the main spark table gives 23 + power enrichment 9 + 6 initial for a total 38 all in.
Guy puts a cam in that wants more timing at idle, so he bumps it to 8 or 10 initial. What has he done to the WOT? The ARAP also has way more timing in all ranges based on the aluminum heads. Personally, I zero the power enrichment table and put all spark into the main table. One of the best OEM maps I've seen for cast iron comes from the 85.

As for the Holley system comments. GM has spent millions on these systems, and I've yet to see an aftermarket system perform as well as a GM system once tuned properly for mods.

 

yo be honest the swap is actually pretty easy and with even an aftermarket system there is just as much likelyhood of having some querks durring the process, tbh i'm betting even more likely because with an aftermarket system it has to be compatible with all the stock sensors and such or those would need swapping as well + still need to wire it to all the right places.

also if i ever did go with any aftermarket type system i dont think i would ever go with any of the highly commercialised systems like the holly, i would do it right and go with the megasquirt , much more affordable, tons more support, much more adaptable. i prefer to support the open source markets whenever possible over funding the huge brand name hype of the commercialised brands. just my opinion. also atm i like the adaptability of the maf system untill you start reaching its limits... i may go with a megasquirt with my 383, hsr setup if i ever find anything i want to put it in.

As for the Holley system comments. GM has spent millions on these systems, and I've yet to see an aftermarket system perform as well as a GM system once tuned properly for mods. [/quote]
good info about the advance curve, thanks.

as far as the base timing being changed messing tith the wot timing , yep i have thought of that as a possible problem as well that would need addressing but atm i was only using the base timing to see if it helped with the slow starts or if that was fuel related.

yes i noticed this as well but wouldnt the fact that the iron head l98 has lower compression then the alum headed l98 alloy it to also be able to accept a decent and possibly comparably amount of advance?

as far as the 85 having a good map , its very possible although im not experianced enough to say but i can say that so far from what i am seeing the 870 setup seemed alot spunkyer just reving in park, it would torque the car with this setup set at 10* base alot more then i have seen with this ARAP bin so far.

also thanks 84wuzmy1st....

 

Do not modify the flowrate. The 85 came with a Bosch 280-150-223 248 cc or 23.8 lb injector rated at 43.5, but installed at 39 psi and programmed for 22.4 lbs.