[QUOTE=The suggestion to put 12 volts into the terminal "G" of the ALDL connector is good- With the fuel pump unplugged, put 12 volts into terminal "G" then read with a your volt meter what the power terminal at the fuel pump connector reads... Then plug the pump back in- read the voltage on that same terminal again.[/QUOTE]

probably done for the day, but I'll try that too..
unless something else trumps that as a possibility

 

dont give up! someone on here will walk you thru the repair(s). alot of good people on this forum.

 

first off as i expected i'm still doubting your 2amp batt charger had enough ooomph to do the job, especially since as far as i remember the fp has a 10amp fuse on it.

the terminal g idea is a great test but is kinda jumping ahead a lil as its adding more wire and possibilitys for more issues, i would test direct at the pump as you were trying first then once you get pump going and fuel then move to testing it at g terminal..

if it were me i would either get a roll of decent (average car wiring) wire and cut 2 pieces to use for verious future testing.. one for poss. one for neg.
and i would just jump direct from the battery in the car to the fp, can use one wire and just try jumping the possitive first as this will also be testing your ground at the same time. if fp doesnt run then jump the ground from batt back too.

just how i would do it but to each there own you could try jumping g term though if you wish, if it works then it would just cut some steps, if not then you just have to go back to preceeding testing the direct way.

 

yeah, I've been meaning to get some 12 ga wire for just that sorta purpose ...
tomorrow...

btw, dying to know why you asked:

assuming your holding ground directly on the metal top of the sending unit assembly?

 

because grounding it anywhere else like frame, just adds more possibilities to why if it doesnt run.

 

oh ok
I was hoping there wasn't some bizarre grounding I was overlooking
thanks
R

 

Hmm is right. It sure sounds like your fuel tank is not connected electrically to the frame = ground. I recall posting a link to that ground recently. It's G401:

 

Curious, at what point in this thread did you think there wasn't a good(tank) ground?

I can read short from the tank, to the frame...

 

well, at least I can hear a FP spinning
jumped from battery.
Found that I had to use the ground wire on the plug.
no fuel coming out of injectors however, so onto other issues.
I haven't looked at #1TDC yet since re-positioning the dist(back one tooth) & cap so that's probably pretty well outta whack.
I was hoping however, to hear it at least try & start.
Looks like maybe injector power or something...
Fuel pressure...
ECU....
More to come

 

slow down back up whooaah we dont need no pulsing injectors or spark just yet unless your just wanting to hear it run its better to fix these problems in order, ok so you get pump to humm but you need to jumper both the poss+12v as well as the ground back?
doesnt work with just jumping the +12volts back?
did you try it with just adding the ground jumper to the fp sending unit plate, plug plugged in and just turning the key or jumpering the 12v to g on diognostic connector?
also is there a fuel pressure test port on the 84's? should be on a fuel line on the intake, any fuel there? can you check pressure there when you have pump jumpered and running?


if this is true our next test is to see if it is indead a bad ground or ground and hot wire.
this can be done a few ways,
1. is with a helper to turn the key on when you say... process is for you to go to the tank with your neg jumper from the battery in hand, meter set to dc volts, put your -neg jumper wire on the black meter probe and the red one in the fp sending unit plug coming from the car(the pin that lines up with where the fp needs the 12volts+) then have the helper turn key on to run and watch meter(you have 2 seconds to see the reading)(after that you must shut key off for at least 15 seconds to be able to get another signal from the fp relay when key is turned back on to run) if no power you need to check that the fp relay is energising(you can usually hear this or feel it when right next to the fp relay.

2. same process except you can jump your 12volt + wire to the g terminal in aldl diognostic plug under the dash then go to tank and follow above instructions.(you get all the time you need to see the voltage as this will cause it to run constant.

that should help a bit

 

hafta play some more tomorrow..

but yeah, it took ground from battery to make her spin
R

 

Your "hmm" in post #20. I thought from the way it was worded that the pump did not work when the battery charger ground was connected to the frame.

 

yeah that's correct.
so, I guess the tank gets it's frame ground from another point..?
AND that the FP ground wire isn't making a ground also..?
curiouser and curiouser
:O

 

That ground situation is definitely odd.

Check with your Volt/ohm meter that the gas tank body is dead shorted to the ground wire of the fuel tank plug.

Ground wire in the plug is welded to the top of the sending unit so if the tank is grounded, the ground wire should be too...

 

tonight, I created a new ground from a FP flange bolt, to the frame.
Now, what I get is:
8.6VDC while turning ignition(first 2 seconds)
jumping to ALDL connector actuates the FP, and it does push fuel to the injectors.
I'm just guessing at this point, but considering that :
1) I farted with the FP Relay before I replaced it and COULD have shorted something in the process
2) The ECU has blackened plastic near the end of the white connector(clearly an electrical issue happened there)
I'm wondering about the ECU.

Looking at the guts of the ECU(it's apart on my workbench), there are many horrible looking components...corrosion, etc

 

I have a spare 84 ecm if you want it...

 

very kind sir
i've got one ordered up thru the local parts store and it should be there now
so, planning on installing in the am.

Rich