84 rear center link question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 301
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84 rear center link question
Has anyone ever disassembled the center portion of a center link on an 84 corvette? I just got the car a couple of weeks ago, and had lots of play in the rear side to side. I figured it was time to replace the centerlink after tracing the movement, and went on. Tonight I decided to take another look at it, and pulled the rubber seal off to inspect the innards, and found a threaded ring that keeps the plastic bushings and pivot ball captive, and it was only one or two threads from coming loose! I pulled out the assembly, took it apart on both sides, and cleaned it up. Everything looked really good, so I repacked it and put it back together, but I am thinking there must be something to keep it from unthreading again other than the friction of being tightened. Only one side was loose to the point of almost coming apart, the other side was almost tight, kind of finger tight. The threaded rings have 4 indents in them for a spanner type tool, and both unthreaded easily all the out. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
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Has anyone ever disassembled the center portion of a center link on an 84 corvette? I just got the car a couple of weeks ago, and had lots of play in the rear side to side. I figured it was time to replace the centerlink after tracing the movement, and went on. Tonight I decided to take another look at it, and pulled the rubber seal off to inspect the innards, and found a threaded ring that keeps the plastic bushings and pivot ball captive, and it was only one or two threads from coming loose! I pulled out the assembly, took it apart on both sides, and cleaned it up. Everything looked really good, so I repacked it and put it back together, but I am thinking there must be something to keep it from unthreading again other than the friction of being tightened. Only one side was loose to the point of almost coming apart, the other side was almost tight, kind of finger tight. The threaded rings have 4 indents in them for a spanner type tool, and both unthreaded easily all the out. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Even though the unit appears to be rebuildable, there are only instructions for removal and replacement in the fsm. I have also read that this style was only on early C4's, and was discontinued. Here are some pics:
http://s790.photobucket.com/user/***...F0516.jpg.html
http://s790.photobucket.com/user/***...F0517.jpg.html
http://s790.photobucket.com/user/***...F0518.jpg.html
http://s790.photobucket.com/user/***...F0519.jpg.html
You notice how the right side was sticking out further? A couple more turns and it was apart! I am guessing this may be why it was discontinued. There appears to be wear indicating golf ball style dimples in the plastic sockets, and the wear does not appear to be very much, so I am going to try it out and see how it feels, and just check it for looseness every so often. I tightened the retaining rings down until it took some force to rotate the rod. The outer tie rod ends are also in good condition, but since they are male threaded, I will have to replace the whole thing when one wears out, as they are no longer available, either.
http://s790.photobucket.com/user/***...F0516.jpg.html
http://s790.photobucket.com/user/***...F0517.jpg.html
http://s790.photobucket.com/user/***...F0518.jpg.html
http://s790.photobucket.com/user/***...F0519.jpg.html
You notice how the right side was sticking out further? A couple more turns and it was apart! I am guessing this may be why it was discontinued. There appears to be wear indicating golf ball style dimples in the plastic sockets, and the wear does not appear to be very much, so I am going to try it out and see how it feels, and just check it for looseness every so often. I tightened the retaining rings down until it took some force to rotate the rod. The outer tie rod ends are also in good condition, but since they are male threaded, I will have to replace the whole thing when one wears out, as they are no longer available, either.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
I have VBP's kit on mine. They do sell just the section you want too. The whole kit made a huge difference in suspension travel. h
http://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts/c4-...category_id=61
http://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts/c4-...category_id=61
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 301
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That's some nice looking stuff. Don't the spherical rod ends need a seal to be run on the street? The toe rod unit is about the same price as anything else I've looked at, I may go that route. Other than that, I was planning on just putting urethane bushings in to replace the rotten rubber. I've been to a few track days on my bike, and it would be neat to get this on a track someday.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Yes I put seals (from sealsit.com) on all around. See pics.
I was going to do the same thing, but with the urethane, you dont get the articulation that you get from the heims. I have an 84 z51 suspension, and going across train tracks used to rattle my teeth. Now its no rougher than any other car I have, and its fully adjustable! Also, I heard a lot of guys complaining about the poly bushings making a bunch of noise, and there is nothing I hate more than rattles and squeaks.
You can see in the pics I polished and painted everything while it was apart. h
http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/he...?sort=3&page=1
I was going to do the same thing, but with the urethane, you dont get the articulation that you get from the heims. I have an 84 z51 suspension, and going across train tracks used to rattle my teeth. Now its no rougher than any other car I have, and its fully adjustable! Also, I heard a lot of guys complaining about the poly bushings making a bunch of noise, and there is nothing I hate more than rattles and squeaks.
You can see in the pics I polished and painted everything while it was apart. h
http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/he...?sort=3&page=1
Last edited by hemivett; Aug 23, 2013 at 12:23 AM.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Wow, that's super clean! I was worried about squeaks from the urethane, too. About 20 years ago I put a full energy suspension kit in a 78 cutlass and after about a month the squeaks started in and nearly drove me insane! I have heard lots of people report no squeaks from the newer stuff, and I am also on a budget, so that will probably be what I'll have to do. By the way, that is really nice work on the interior of your 84!
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Speaking of budget. When I did mine, I mentioned I heard about them on the corvetteforum.com, and they gave me an additional 10% off. That's a $100 bucks!
I cannot emphasize enough how much better the car rides. My wife hated how rough it was, and that right there is worth the extra for me. I mean there is a reason why they tell to have the weight on the wheels when you torque everything. Cause it binds up with solid bushings. You get none of that with heims. I used to be able to drive down the road sideways, and now I can barely turn the 18in Toyo's. Now its time for power!
My car was doing the same as yours (walking side to side when I gave it gas or let off) and I also thought I had a bad center section. But mine had a bad wheel bearing instead. When I took the axle nut off, half the bearing fell off onto the ground! My point is, make sure you check everything! Peace. h
PS. If you do decide to use the poly. Go with PST. They're graphite impregnated, so squeaks are a minimum. http://catalog.p-s-t.com/index.php?c...econfigID=1287
I cannot emphasize enough how much better the car rides. My wife hated how rough it was, and that right there is worth the extra for me. I mean there is a reason why they tell to have the weight on the wheels when you torque everything. Cause it binds up with solid bushings. You get none of that with heims. I used to be able to drive down the road sideways, and now I can barely turn the 18in Toyo's. Now its time for power!
My car was doing the same as yours (walking side to side when I gave it gas or let off) and I also thought I had a bad center section. But mine had a bad wheel bearing instead. When I took the axle nut off, half the bearing fell off onto the ground! My point is, make sure you check everything! Peace. h
PS. If you do decide to use the poly. Go with PST. They're graphite impregnated, so squeaks are a minimum. http://catalog.p-s-t.com/index.php?c...econfigID=1287
Last edited by hemivett; Aug 22, 2013 at 11:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Thanks for the link! I first suspected wheel bearings, but they checked out ok. Now the only movement I have is fore and aft on the control arms where the holes in the rubber are elongated, but it no longer torque steers, at least!
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
http://sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp RERS 3. I put the boots on then used a small drill bit to make a hole in the rubber, for the zerk. Some people say you dont need them, with boots, but I like to give em a squirt of grease every now and then. h
Last edited by hemivett; Aug 23, 2013 at 12:30 AM.