C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Finally Traced My Intermitt Code 33

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Old Aug 25, 2013 | 09:15 AM
  #1  
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Default Finally Traced My Intermitt Code 33

Well after a yr of hunting this down finally think i got this code 33 and 36 figured out.
This problem seemed at first to only show up in the mornings and only after driving a half mile the Ses light would come on and when i got off work in the afternoon no codes. Well it finally started to get worse.
Yesterday it would thow it when first started but if i restarted it would not. So this morning go the wife to crank the car while I check the green data wire. The first crank it was fine all, then the 2nd crank the B+ was fine but the data line went to 3.57V and did not move when I hit the gas. Code 33 came on. When She turned it off I could see the burnoff voltage on the same data line.
Restarted the car and the maf voltage went back to 1.3V and would come back to 4.37 when rev up.
Its a MICRO TECH MAF. What a PIA finding this problem.
One note, just checked the resistance fron data line to gnd with the maf out of car and back to 10 ohms.
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Old Aug 25, 2013 | 09:52 AM
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That's great. So you solved the problem discussed in your "8192 Data", "Unknown MAF Sensor", "Error Codes, States and Conditions", and "Problem With Data Tester" threads? Why be a moving target? If you can't find your previous thread to update it, you can click on "User CP" on the left end of the red banner at the top of the page, then select "List Subscriptions" You can scroll through the list until you find your thread.
This works equally well for searching for threads of interest that you have replied to in the past.

Troubleshooting these cars and be a challenge and "chance finds" like the one you just made are invaluable. Having continuity in one thread, from problem onset to resolution is invaluable to other forum users trying to chase a similar problem.
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 01:21 AM
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If you unplug the MAF, how many volts at the MAF pigtail on terminal C (drkgrn wire) with KOEO? I am fighting a code 33 myself.

Last edited by Wirelessrat; Aug 26, 2013 at 01:28 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 06:02 PM
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dlee425
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5.2V Unplugged. Problem was when it was plugged in. Most of the time it would be .2 V and running about 1.8V At idle. This time it stayed at 3.57V and then the ses light came on and no change in voltage when i hit the throttle.
But was so intermitt I had to wait till it got really bad to catch it. So far my mileage increased by 3 mpg, car runs better.
My Maf was one of the Micro Tech units.

And I did not know you could List Subscription to see your messages. I must have done something wrong as all of them are gone.
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 09:43 PM
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What brand did you go with for the replacement MAF? Thanks for the voltage reading. Needed that info more than you know.

Last edited by Wirelessrat; Aug 26, 2013 at 09:48 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by dlee425
Well after a yr of hunting this down finally think i got this code 33 and 36 figured out.
This problem seemed at first to only show up in the mornings and only after driving a half mile the Ses light would come on and when i got off work in the afternoon no codes. Well it finally started to get worse.
Yesterday it would thow it when first started but if i restarted it would not. So this morning go the wife to crank the car while I check the green data wire. The first crank it was fine all, then the 2nd crank the B+ was fine but the data line went to 3.57V and did not move when I hit the gas. Code 33 came on. When She turned it off I could see the burnoff voltage on the same data line.
Restarted the car and the maf voltage went back to 1.3V and would come back to 4.37 when rev up.
Its a MICRO TECH MAF. What a PIA finding this problem.
One note, just checked the resistance fron data line to gnd with the maf out of car and back to 10 ohms.
These ECUs are sooooo sensitive to resistence. After changing a billion things on my car, it took changing a couple of Maf burnoff relays to make my code 36 go bye bye. What a pain in the butt!
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 04:43 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Just BOB
you can click on "User CP" on the left end of the red banner at the top of the page, then select "List Subscriptions"
That only works if you actually subscribed to threads. The default is NOT subscribed. You have to explicitly select the notification type to subscribe to a thread.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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dlee425
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
That only works if you actually subscribed to threads. The default is NOT subscribed. You have to explicitly select the notification type to subscribe to a thread.
This maybe why i never see a reply. I have o hunt down my message. Will try and select Subscribe..
Thanks
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Wirelessrat
What brand did you go with for the replacement MAF? Thanks for the voltage reading. Needed that info more than you know.
I ended up with a rebuilt one from AutoZone (And it did work) Suprised me. It said Bosch on it and looked like the factory one. The one that came off was a micro tech unit.
Funny thing Advance Auto wanted 211.00 and Auto Zone was 125.00 it was the same part number and brand from both. Well you can guess i went for the lesser one..lol
Day 3 and still runs great..

Now to get the rattle fixed from under the car sounds like the center cat.
Hope i can get the car up high enough to get my big butt under there to find out..
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 12:13 AM
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Good to know about the maf from Auto Zone. That rattle, I undid my exhaust and briquets fell out of the cats. Makes more than noise, it is also an exhaust restriction.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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It seems to be the middle Cat making the noise. whats an easy way to remove it ?
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