Engine coolant temp sensor ?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
Engine coolant temp sensor ?
I have a 96 and I noticed that the analog temp gauge stopped working. I recently did the water pump and put a new sensor in the new pump. I checked the one on the right side of the block and it had just melted off. so does this sensor go to the analog dash gauge and the one on the water pump go to the digital gauge? also, how much coolant will come out when I take this sensor out, the one on the right side of the block? Do I need to drain the radiator first? any tricks to getting at it, it's pretty tight there. I did not have any codes, can I drive it while this sensor is faulty with the only problem being that I cant read the analog gauge. it's my DD so not sure I can do it tonight. Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
The analog is in the Head and when you remove it, whatever is in that Head will flow out. Helps to get the Radiator below the Manifold first.
The Coolant Temp Sensor in the WP is important as that signal determines how much fuel it gets - colder more; warmer less. Codes are only for an open or short in the Circuit, but they don't tell you if it's reading the right temperature. Fortunately, a skewed number usually leads to other driveability issues, so it's probably ok. You could see what it reads after it's sat overnight - should be ambient or close to it.
The Coolant Temp Sensor in the WP is important as that signal determines how much fuel it gets - colder more; warmer less. Codes are only for an open or short in the Circuit, but they don't tell you if it's reading the right temperature. Fortunately, a skewed number usually leads to other driveability issues, so it's probably ok. You could see what it reads after it's sat overnight - should be ambient or close to it.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
The analog is in the Head and when you remove it, whatever is in that Head will flow out. Helps to get the Radiator below the Manifold first.
The Coolant Temp Sensor in the WP is important as that signal determines how much fuel it gets - colder more; warmer less. Codes are only for an open or short in the Circuit, but they don't tell you if it's reading the right temperature. Fortunately, a skewed number usually leads to other driveability issues, so it's probably ok. You could see what it reads after it's sat overnight - should be ambient or close to it.
The Coolant Temp Sensor in the WP is important as that signal determines how much fuel it gets - colder more; warmer less. Codes are only for an open or short in the Circuit, but they don't tell you if it's reading the right temperature. Fortunately, a skewed number usually leads to other driveability issues, so it's probably ok. You could see what it reads after it's sat overnight - should be ambient or close to it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
so the sensor in the head is just for the analog gauge, it does not affect how the car runs and it doesnt tell the computer to compensate in any way. I am just wanting to know if I can drive it this way for a couple days, about 20 miles to and from work. also, if I jack up the rear end for a bit then it will flow into the radiator and not as much will come out when I pull the sensor. lastly, why does it need a sensor in the head as well as at the wp and a digital and an analog gauge. I am not much of a mechanic so I dont quite get the obvious. Thanks
You can drive it for the rest of your life (or the car's) without any problems.
The cooling system is completely full of coolant and there is no air in the system. That means that you can't "jack it up" to get the coolant to flow somewhere. What I did was unscrew the old sensor and hold it in position until it was completely unscrewed but still plugging the hole. Then I quickly swapped in the new one. I lost a negligible amount of coolant.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 2
From: colchester CT
The computer does some magic stuff that makes the CTS more accurate. The computer sends the temperature to the dash digital gauge. The analog gauge doesn't need this precision and it's very inaccurate when the coolant is cold. The two sensors are connected differently to make this happen (computer sensor uses two wires -- dash gauge uses one).
You can drive it for the rest of your life (or the car's) without any problems.
The cooling system is completely full of coolant and there is no air in the system. That means that you can't "jack it up" to get the coolant to flow somewhere. What I did was unscrew the old sensor and hold it in position until it was completely unscrewed but still plugging the hole. Then I quickly swapped in the new one. I lost a negligible amount of coolant.
You can drive it for the rest of your life (or the car's) without any problems.
The cooling system is completely full of coolant and there is no air in the system. That means that you can't "jack it up" to get the coolant to flow somewhere. What I did was unscrew the old sensor and hold it in position until it was completely unscrewed but still plugging the hole. Then I quickly swapped in the new one. I lost a negligible amount of coolant.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
Earlier years with the auxiliary fan have a switch similar to this to control the auxiliary fan. The main fan is controlled by the ECM. In Later years with two fans behind the radiator both fans are controlled by the computer. I think 1984 cars had a similar system, with no computer control of the fans. 1985 was a transition year -- I don't know how the fans worked for that year.
One effect of taking control of the fans away from the computer is that you won't get the automatic turn off above 35 MPH.
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