Cluster doesn't light up
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,751
Likes: 275
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
It may just be the lights in the cluster that need replacement.
http://www.batee.com/
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
The main thing that causes the cluster not to light up is a bad photocell. If the dash thinks it's dark it will dim the back lights.
There are four back lights. Sometimes one will fail. Usually that's pretty obvious, as part of the cluster will be dark.
If nothing at all is working then it could be a bad power supply.
There are four back lights. Sometimes one will fail. Usually that's pretty obvious, as part of the cluster will be dark.
If nothing at all is working then it could be a bad power supply.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
The main thing that causes the cluster not to light up is a bad photocell. If the dash thinks it's dark it will dim the back lights.
There are four back lights. Sometimes one will fail. Usually that's pretty obvious, as part of the cluster will be dark.
If nothing at all is working then it could be a bad power supply.
There are four back lights. Sometimes one will fail. Usually that's pretty obvious, as part of the cluster will be dark.
If nothing at all is working then it could be a bad power supply.
I'll probably just buy a new one and put it in. thanks everyone
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Sounds like you have a bad solder joint on the main connector inside the panel. Shoot Brian an email, (batee.com) and he should be able to give you an idea what it may be. Mine didnt work at all, and I re-soldered my connector, now it all works. h
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
I have to agree that the 10 pin Molex connector that connects the boards together is a prime suspect as well. Carefully take your dash assembly apart and look for obvious problems. My dash actually had a dark brown area on the ground pin so I soldered a wire jumper around the Molex. There are also other grounds that can get corroded. I put a dedicated ground wire on mine before I found the burnt pin. Check out Batee.com as suggested before you spend the big bucks on a new one.
If you do buy a new one and they dont want the core, I desperately need new LCDs so please PM me I will be glad to give you the core charge and shipping. Thanks!!
If you do buy a new one and they dont want the core, I desperately need new LCDs so please PM me I will be glad to give you the core charge and shipping. Thanks!!
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Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Sounds like your photocell is bad. I can see mine in any light, night, or day, and I rarely use my headlights. I'm too old to be out at night. Lol. Brian sells all the parts, and are easily installed. Happy soldering! h
Last edited by hemivett; Sep 2, 2013 at 04:49 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
Try turning the headlight **** all the way counter clockwise. There is a rheostat on the headlight switch that controls the dash brightness when the parking/headlights are on.
The dash dimming circuit is very interesting. I got a few surprises when I traced it out. I'm working on an article...
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
Not to be nitpicky, Cliff but I just thought you were not clear. Its a common mistake (not that you made it) for people to think the power supply runs the whole board. They will purchase a whole new board only to discover there ground is bad.
Even this quote here is misleading. The LCDs never "Light", they turn on or activate. I can assure you you cannot see anything at night on your dash if the lighting circuit is out.
And you are correct about the headlight switch and I bet your surprise was its actually fed thru the TAIL circuit. Yep it was an interesting journey for me as well.
And you are correct about the headlight switch and I bet your surprise was its actually fed thru the TAIL circuit. Yep it was an interesting journey for me as well.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
Another surprise was the INST fuse, which is in line with the headlight switch dimmer rheostat. It doesn't seem to go anywhere else. [EDIT] It's called INST on the diagram in the FSM but it's actually LPS in the fuse panel. [/EDIT]
The diagram in the FSM on page 8A-82-0 is NOT how the backlighting is actually hooked up. I think they were trying to simplify the diagram to make it easier to understand. They don't really need to show details since you can't repair the dash anyway. It was a swap out deal all along.
I was drawing a schematic earlier tonight...
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Sep 21, 2013 at 02:23 AM. Reason: Added note on INST fuse.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 324
From: San Antonio Tx
I got tired of messing with my digi-dash so I bought the Vetteaid autometer panel and I LOVE IT! A little pricey but I plan on driving this car till they take the keys away and put me in a home.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,328
Likes: 15
From: Jacksonville FL
This will help a lot of folks because of the complexity (or stupidity) of how the dash actually gets power to the lights.
I had forgotten about the INSTR fuse as one area to check. I started a "what to check first" on the no dash lights issue but lost track and now I dont remember,
. Blame CRS, it cant be the old age creepin in 
I had forgotten about the INSTR fuse as one area to check. I started a "what to check first" on the no dash lights issue but lost track and now I dont remember,
. Blame CRS, it cant be the old age creepin in
