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Hey y'all, I have a base model 92 with 6speed trans that will not crank. Over the past couple of weeks the problem has been getting worse and worse. When the issue started the car wouldn't crank when you first turned the key but would seem to delay for a second or two before engaging the starter. Later, the car wouldn't crank at all at first but would start after being left alone for a few minutes. Later in the progression it would do the same "won't start until you left it alone for a while" thing but then once it did start to crank the engine would take a very long time to catch. Now it will not crank at all. When the key is inserted you can hear the fuel pump come on and there is a rapid clicking noise (happens when key is in "on" position, nothing happens in "start") which comes from somewhere underneath and towards the front of the engine (doesn't seem to be the starter though).
VATS has been successfully bypassed for years and I don't get a security light when it refuses to crank.
I pulled the starter and had it tested, it was fine. I even bought a new starter and put it in just to be sure, no change in the symptoms.
Bad Ignition switch. Have you tried arcing between the ignition wire, and battery wire on the starter? If it turns over, its probably the ignition switch. My Blazer did the same thing, but I didn't notice it right away, cause I had a remote start system, so it would start and run for 20min off that. When the ignition switch totally quit working, (like yours) is when I finally figured it out. I was never stranded though cause the remote would always give me 20min. h
Hey y'all, I have a base model 92 with 6speed trans that will not crank. Over the past couple of weeks the problem has been getting worse and worse. When the issue started the car wouldn't crank when you first turned the key but would seem to delay for a second or two before engaging the starter. Later, the car wouldn't crank at all at first but would start after being left alone for a few minutes. Later in the progression it would do the same "won't start until you left it alone for a while" thing but then once it did start to crank the engine would take a very long time to catch. Now it will not crank at all. When the key is inserted you can hear the fuel pump come on and there is a rapid clicking noise (happens when key is in "on" position, nothing happens in "start") which comes from somewhere underneath and towards the front of the engine (doesn't seem to be the starter though).
VATS has been successfully bypassed for years and I don't get a security light when it refuses to crank.
I pulled the starter and had it tested, it was fine. I even bought a new starter and put it in just to be sure, no change in the symptoms.
Where should I go from here?
What method did you use to bypass vats? You really shoul have it disabled in the chip to do this properly
VATS was disabled when I bought it (purchased about 7 years ago). There's a string of resistors wired up under the dashboard and there's a sticker for a tuning place on the ECU which leads me to believe that it's been altered, possibly for VATS. I bought the car CHEAP and it didn't come with any service history so I can't really tell you any more than that.
Hey y'all, I have a base model 92 with 6speed trans that will not crank. Over the past couple of weeks the problem has been getting worse and worse. When the issue started the car wouldn't crank when you first turned the key but would seem to delay for a second or two before engaging the starter. Later, the car wouldn't crank at all at first but would start after being left alone for a few minutes. Later in the progression it would do the same "won't start until you left it alone for a while" thing but then once it did start to crank the engine would take a very long time to catch. Now it will not crank at all. When the key is inserted you can hear the fuel pump come on and there is a rapid clicking noise (happens when key is in "on" position, nothing happens in "start") which comes from somewhere underneath and towards the front of the engine (doesn't seem to be the starter though).
VATS has been successfully bypassed for years and I don't get a security light when it refuses to crank.
I pulled the starter and had it tested, it was fine. I even bought a new starter and put it in just to be sure, no change in the symptoms.
Where should I go from here?
You should scan for codes. You never know, someone could have disconnected the security light.
You really shoul have it disabled in the chip to do this properly
Has no effect on whether the engine cranks over or not.
The VATS operated starter enable relay can be independently bypassed without touching either VATS or the tune in the ECM
You should scan for codes. You never know, someone could have disconnected the security light.
The security light blinks when I pop the rear hatch so I know it's working. I've used a jumper wire on the OBD port and it only throws 12 which doesn't mean anything.
Disabling VATS in the programming is only part of of the system. It will no longer look for a resistance value from the key. The starter enable relay can still create a fault. To completely remove VATS you must ground the signal to this relay, or bypass it altogether.