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i have an 86 l98 2 bolt and was wondering could i swap it over to 4 bolt main block to stroke it out. and if i can how this affect any of my gauges i dont think it would but i would like to know forsure
The dash doesn't know or care what engine / block etc you have in the engine bay
So long as the engine sensors match to the gauges you can use anything
i have an 86 l98 2 bolt and was wondering could i swap it over to 4 bolt main block to stroke it out. and if i can how this affect any of my gauges i dont think it would but i would like to know forsure
Depends on the purpose of your build, as to which block to use. It's actually common for people to switch to a two-bolt factory block only to machine it to accept "splayed" 4-bolt main caps. This is actually stronger than a factory 4-bolt block.
The factory 4-bolt is a nice alternative to a 2-bolt when you're seeking more strength without the added cost of machining a 2-bolt to accept splayed 4-bolt main caps. *also, GM did make slight changes to the blocks during production. The most significant being the roller cam in the mid-80's, 2- piece or 1-piece rear main seals, sensor locations, certain mounting holes (some threaded, some blank, etc.). Communicate with your machine shop when deciding on a block to build on.
For a mild to medium build up to around 450 hp there really is no need to buy a new 4 bolt block.. My friend Pete K ran a 383 using a 2 bolt block for years at the track without problems.. He had well over 400 hp.....High rpms are what do a motor the most harm , not the hp....WW
droped my keyborad but yeah i like to do a 383 but everyone been tell me it wound work in the 2 bolt. would i use the same kit as a 4 bolt of do they make 2 bolt 383 kits and if so where can i find one
I've always run 4 bolt blocks in all my toys with forged cranks. Honestly, I think a studded 2 bolt would be really close in strength without all the added cost of machine work. Of course it makes me feel good I've got the 010 casting with a new 1053 crank in my 5200 RPM peak HP engine (kind of a waste really). Put the money into a complete roller valvetrain.
Depends on the purpose of your build, as to which block to use. It's actually common for people to switch to a two-bolt factory block only to machine it to accept "splayed" 4-bolt main caps. This is actually stronger than a factory 4-bolt block.
The factory 4-bolt is a nice alternative to a 2-bolt when you're seeking more strength without the added cost of machining a 2-bolt to accept splayed 4-bolt main caps. *also, GM did make slight changes to the blocks during production. The most significant being the roller cam in the mid-80's, 2- piece or 1-piece rear main seals, sensor locations, certain mounting holes (some threaded, some blank, etc.). Communicate with your machine shop when deciding on a block to build on.
Exactly what my machinist did with my 355 in the car now...
It was going to need an align-bore anyway...just part of the "blueprinting" process.
ok then for a 2 bolt main then if i shoot any where from 350hp to 500hp should i really need my bolt machine for a 4 bolt of should it hold up. i wantin to get it bored and put the stroker kit in it as well as a modded lt intake on different set of head(undecided on what heads yet) along with some other small parts what prediction would you say my hp would be. i expecting around like 330 or so but i may be way off. as for headers im not sure where to keep the stock ones or a set of long tube