I've got an unusual one again. My car had sat for three or four days and when I went to start it the fuel pump did not kick on for it's 2 second run. I hit the starter and tried it again and it worked just like it's supposed to. I went out today and it happened again, the car had sat for 3 days and turn the key, nothing. Tried it 3 or 4 more times, still zip. Tapped the starter once, shut off the key, waited 20 seconds and turned the key on,. pump kicked right in. New pump, new relay & connector, any ideas?

 

My 85 died at a light stop,turn the key and had no pump kicking,i was thinking about a bad pump or pump relai,it was a bad ECM connector.One pin on the connector was faulty and no more pump comming on...For sure some electric gremlins...

 

......... V.a.t.s. ? ......................

 

I don't know if it is the same or not, but my '94 was acting somewhat similar. On that car the fuel pump relay was bad.

It would not kick on to pressurize the system. The other method to energize the pump is when the oil pressure climbs. The result is that it would not want to prime the injectors and wouldn't start instantly, however, as soon as I cranked the engine for a second or two and built oil pressure, the fuel pump would turn on so there would be fuel pressure and it would start almost normally.

I replaced the relay and it fixed my problem. Yours may be different if turning the key does not even crank the motor though.

Good luck.

 

It's an '85 - NO VATS!

A "tap of the starter motor" fixes it every time? How often do you have this situation? Is it just the two times that you mention?

 

I would start with battery connections and starter connections then check grounds.

 

Yep, I can turn the key to the on position all I want and there is no fuel pump noise, but if I just bump the engine over a bit and shut the key back off, then wait 20 seconds and turn it back on the pump runs and will continue to run every time I turn the key on.
To others who have responded, there is nothing wrong with battery connections or the starter, the one and only problem is the fuel pump does not cycle on the first time after the car has sat for a spell.
I kinda think it is the ignition switch since everything is okay once I turn the key to the start position.

 

The connectors for the ignition switch are prone to failure also. It would be the least expensive starting point, another possible but less likely check would be the rack and rod in the column. Maybe the rotation of the lock cylinder isn't always positive. While replacing the switch you can check connector condition, clean the connectors and maybe confirm the rod and rack motion.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow, I think you're right.

 

I read the 'tapped the starter' too literally i guess. I agree with the ignition check. Or possibly the fuel pump relay. Seems like the most likely.

 

the fuel pump relay is on the firewall next to the master cylinder if I remember correctly.

 

Hi Dan, you do remember correctly, I just put a new one on mine. The connector on mine had wires shrunk back from heat and there was about 1/2 inch of bare wires showing. I got a new connector and figured I would replace the relay while I was in there.

 

No problem, I do that all the time. I just appreciate your responding.

 

That's right, doh. The insulation shrinking on the '85s is crazy, I've only had it on the wiring around the AIR pump so far though.

 

If you CEL illuminates when you turn the key on, but don't hear the pump run, then the ignition switch is working. I'd put a test light or a DVOM on the lead coming from the ECM to the FP relay after the car has been sitting for a couple days (when your symptom occurs), and see if you have power there when you turn the key on. If not, trace it back to the ECM. If yes, I'd replace (or test in a similar fashion) the relay.

 

[QUOTE=Midnight 85;1584881437]Yep, I can turn the key to the on position all I want and there is no fuel pump noise, but if I just bump the engine over a bit and shut the key back off, then wait 20 seconds and turn it back on the pump runs and will continue to run every time I turn the key on.

Ok, its obviously electrical in nature, so that's half the battle....

New parts don't always act new...Relays come from every 3rd world country on the planet as do MANY of our electrical parts do. Not very inspiring.

IIWM, I would try to simulate the event with a DVM plugged into the FPR plug, to prove that it does NOT happen when the relay is removed from the circuit...

if it DOES happen the same way, check the oil pressure switch wires, plug and harness. Fuel pump plug as well. Check all the wire visually for shorts, connections.

Look at the relay plug REAL close. The insulation DOES shrink back and the wires CAN and DO touch in the plug body where its not easily visible.

You have a jumper post, so a quick loosening and retightening of that will not hurt...if its dirty, take it apart clean and reassemble. Same for the ground stack on the famous "bolt" in the block above the oil filter. Those grounds manage EVERYTHING....and will cause all kinds of half-assed performance and mild problems.

As others have stated, the column ing switch has a handful of contacts that generally are trouble free, but they can become corroded and dirty under certain conditions. The column switch is a royal PITA, so consult the FSM if you feel you need to go there...Its on top of the column, below the lower panel over the foot-well...Guarded by metal and inconvenient access...
I wouldn't mess with that unless a problem cannot be found ANYWHERE else...

if you still have the old relay, plug it in and see what happens..
Go from:
relay
plug
wires
sensors in that circuit
working your was farther from the fuel relay. The relay is the center of the problem since that is what is NOT functioning when it should. Most times the center of a problem....IS the problem.

Good Luck !

 

Changed the ignition switch, the car does have 113,000 on it so it was worth a try. Didn't make a difference. Everything else is in good condition so it almost has to be the "new" relay. If I changed that miserable ignition switch for nothing and it is the relay, somebody's gonna get it shoved where they ain't gonna like it.

 

Well, I feel you for changing the ignition switch...but someone DID say....I was trying to help you DIAGNOSE, rather than throw parts.

 

You are right as can be, guilty as charged, but I was already far into the change when you posted. Still no excuse though. I'll be trying your suggestion in the morning. There is a small plus side to the experience, I found the big vacuum hose that goes to the cruise control switch on the brake pedal had split right at the end allowing a huge vacuum loss. Most likely my unsatisfactory brake problem solved.

 

I put the old relay back in the car and so far it has worked every single time. So much for preventive maintenance, I only changed it because I was in there already changing the heat damaged connector.