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I used TPiS headers. The driver side was able to go in from the top. The passenger side from underneath. No need to lift the engine. The hardest part was tightening the rear bolt on the pass side.
I used TPiS headers. The driver side was able to go in from the top. The passenger side from underneath. No need to lift the engine. The hardest part was tightening the rear bolt on the pass side.
Same with me w/ Headmans. Either remove your temp sensors or be VERY careful not to bump them. They'll break....trust me.
When I installed Hedman Elites on my '87, I found that both sides went in from underneath the car. My car has the Z52 sport suspension so the front crossmenber braces were there, but there was no clearance problems. I had already removed the alternator and I had earlier removed the AIR pump and the A/C compressor.
I didn't remove the temp sensor on the pass side nor the sensor for the aux fan on the driver's side. I did remove all of the spark plugs, and the small plug wire clips that bolt to the heads. You have to remove the dipstick tube.
The stock starter will be a royal PITA to deal with. It has to come out and to replace it, you have get the headers in place but not bolted down. The bottom o the header will have to be swung out to get the OEM starter up to the block. I went with a Hatachi-style mini starter from Summit Racing. It cost about $110 but it installs easily with the headers bolted down tight. There are no wiring changes, but you do need to make sure that the battery cable end is clear of the block. And the mini-starter only weighs 7 lbs.
The harness for the other 2 cables to the starter needs to be pulled away from the #8 tube. I built a small bracket and drilled a hole thru the passenger side footwell and used a 1" long screw and bolt to secure the bracket and used a zip-tie to hold the harness. I added some RTV sealant to both sides of the footwell fiberglass to keep out moisture. It's a good idea to get some heat shielding material for that wire harness and for the gas line. Summit has 6" wide rolls with velcro edging that works well.
When I installed Hedman Elites on my '87, I found that both sides went in from underneath the car. My car has the Z52 sport suspension so the front crossmenber braces were there, but there was no clearance problems. I had already removed the alternator and I had earlier removed the AIR pump and the A/C compressor.
I didn't remove the temp sensor on the pass side nor the sensor for the aux fan on the driver's side. I did remove all of the spark plugs, and the small plug wire clips that bolt to the heads. You have to remove the dipstick tube.
The stock starter will be a royal PITA to deal with. It has to come out and to replace it, you have get the headers in place but not bolted down. The bottom o the header will have to be swung out to get the OEM starter up to the block. I went with a Hatachi-style mini starter from Summit Racing. It cost about $110 but it installs easily with the headers bolted down tight. There are no wiring changes, but you do need to make sure that the battery cable end is clear of the block. And the mini-starter only weighs 7 lbs.
The harness for the other 2 cables to the starter needs to be pulled away from the #8 tube. I built a small bracket and drilled a hole thru the passenger side footwell and used a 1" long screw and bolt to secure the bracket and used a zip-tie to hold the harness. I added some RTV sealant to both sides of the footwell fiberglass to keep out moisture. It's a good idea to get some heat shielding material for that wire harness and for the gas line. Summit has 6" wide rolls with velcro edging that works well.
The starter issue sounds like it is specific to the headers being installed. I've installed and removed the headers on my 85 several times and never had to touch the starter. The starter wiring will need heat protection.