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Just want to get ideas here, yes I've searched. After a drive and the car sits for awhile like an hour or so, no crank at all. No clicking, nothing. When cold, hits every time and fires up instantly. Roll starts just fine when this happens. It did this to me today, and after I roll started it, drove home, shut it off and it fired right back up. Hour later, no start no click. From what I can tell the VATS has been bypassed because I have a plain flat no resistor key that works fine. It's hard to tell, but when it does this, sometimes the voltage drops very minimally according to the digi readout maybe from 12.2v to 12.0v. I'm thinking bad starter that is prone to heat soak (has around 130k afaik it's the original starter). New coil and ICM, so I don't think they are the culprit or a roll start would fail too.
Anything else I should check before I replace the starter?
You could try to put 12V directly on the starter solenoid when it gives you the no crank (put the car up on ramps after a drive, come back in an hour and see if you get the no crank - if you do get the no crank - slide under the car and use something like remote starter switch to supply battery voltage directly to the solenoid. If it suddenly cranks - after not cranking with the key then the starter isn't your problem.
It's quite possible it's the starter solenoid, but with the mileage you've got - chances are that if you pull the starter, and then just change the solenoid, you'll be doing the job again in the not too distant future to change the starter itself.
Yeah I wouldn't go through the hassle of just doing the solenoid, I'd do the whole starter especially knowing the mileage and not the entire history of the car.
Okay, Get Yourself A Voltmeter And Follow These Steps. Excuse The Capitols My Phone Is Messed Up. On The STarter You Will Have Three Wires, An S Terminal, B Terminal, And M Terminal. The M Terminal Will Go From The Solenoid To The Starter, The B Terminal Will Go From The Solenoid Directly To The Battery, This Is The Big Terminal, The S Terminal WiLl Go From The Solenoid To The Ignition Switc Or Computer Or Relay Or Whatever. The B Terminal Always Has Power. Check The B Terminal For 12V. The S Terminal Has Power When The Key Is Turned But It Is Also A Fuses Circuit. Have Someone TuRn The Key And Check For 12V On The S Terminal. If Both Show Up Then The Starter Is Bad. If One Doesnt Have 12V Then You Have An ElEctrical Problem. Report Back With Your Results.