Im in the process of putting the runners back on my 1989 Corvettes L98 engine. I was told that I will need to take the valve covers off in order to reach the bolts on bottom of runners. My question is do I have to take the a/c compressor bracket off to get the passenger side valve cover off?

 

I just went through this a month or so ago. WW7 helped me. You don't have to take the bracket off,but you do have to slide it forward to clear the end of the valve cover.I also had to remove the belt tensioner. WW7 says there is another way if you have rubber gaskets.If no one else chimes in,I will relay what he shared.

tankman

 

no reason to pull V covers to R&R runners

 

No way !

the valve covers STAY PUT.

just get the right extensions, a wobble joint and the right size torx bit. I use 1/4" drive because it fits easier. I also replaced all the torx with allen head bolts. Once the plenum is off, just build the extensions to reach the far side. The 1/4" drive fits a LOT better than the 3/8 extensions and ratchet,.

Valve covers take some tricks of their own....wiper motor comes off, from side brackets, and on the alt side there are bolts that if you turn them around, next time the bracket does not need to come off driver side...

 

Ok, well I already took valve covers off before reading how not to have to but since they are already off, which runner do I put on first-drivers side or pass side? And after I put one on, then I put the plenum on and then the other runner right?

 

does not really matter what side you put on first I usally do drivers side but that is just me. And to your 2nd question no. you put both runners on tighten them down then install the platium

 

YEP...

I usually do the harder side 1st so I can get ahead of the worst part...does not matter which is done 1st though.

I install both runners and snug the lower bolts up to spec. Be CAREFUL....its aluminum and the bolts are steel....the aluminum threads are as soft as warm butter...so go easy. Runner to intake is only 15-20 ft/lbs.
As long as the gaskets are good, and the sealing surface is clean it will be ok. Its a low vac seal, so it does not have a lot of stress.

Once the runners are solid, Connect your IAT sensor plug to the underside of the plenum IF you have one there. Then drop the plenum down and position it and secure it with one bolt started, then start a bolt other side. After that all the bolts will go in easily..
you MAY want to connect the brake booster line before dropping the plenum in place.. its easier for me, but mine is a hose. Some are steel lines. Some folks do the booster before setting the plenum, some do it after. Depends on access.
Once the plenum is secure, add throttle body,. connect the cables, plug in the vac lines under the TB and the 2 in the rear of the plenum.
Be sure to test the throttle open/close after you mount the cable bracket to the plenum. That can cause the throttle to hold open a bit if the bracket is not secure and positioned properly.

Its not bad at all. Takes longer to read all this than it does to bolt up the plenum and TB.

 

We've all assembled the TPI differently it seems.

My technique is to loose assemble the tubes and plenum.
Once all the bolts are in place and snugged, then torque is applied.
A light film of grease helps to let the plenum float on it's gaskets until torqued.

 

I agree, I have used both methods and they both work...The tops of the runners are cut at an angle so the plenum can drop down in and bolt up, even if the runners are bolted down tight to the manifold.. I usually shoot a little of the red spray sealer onto the runners so the gaskets don't move when you lower the plenum into place...Personally , I never use a torque wrench going into light aluminum, unless Im securing the intake to the heads..I have seen to many stripped bolts in aluminum, especally when the bolts are small . I just take the bolts up until they touch and then give them a little more to seal..Your only sealing out air on the runners, not liquid, and there's no pressure , and if they would leak you can always tighten them a little more later.......WW

 

I do that as well, or I smear anti-seize on the gaskets to prevent sticking to the aluminum like the factory set...

I think everybody that's done this a few times develops their own process based on what works for them or what else is going on under the hood that day.

I agree with the torque wrench. I posted the number just to show how little it is...I run these bolts down to snug then 1/4 past. Never had one back out or get loose. Never had one strip either !
That's the benefit of having worked on thin cased Japanese bike engines in the 70s...like screwing bolts into a stick of butter.
I think that's why they assembled those with Philips head screws...to prevent over torqueing and stripping.

 

all i have to say is. 80's engineering

 

Thanks everybody! I appreciate the input very much!