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I believe that you need to have you chip in the ECM changed to eliminate the EGR function.
Check with the guy before you have him burn you a chip to make sure they really can do what you want. I have been burned before when I requested special programming only to get the chip and find out that they they could not make the changes I needed.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-‘17, '22
Re: Disabel the EGR.. (devilfish)
Can't you just block the tubes or stick a restrictor plate in one one the EGR openings?
Is there really any performance gain to be made by deleting the EGR (assuming that is why you want to do it)? I thought it only worked at part throttle anyway. :confused:
That tube that goes from your exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. The EGR valve under the plenum, the solenoid near the thermostat housing, the sensor plugged into the tube, and a few vacuum lines.
There are passages in our intake manifolds that route the gases from the port near the distributor from that tube to the EGR valve. The EGR valve then opens up to introduce them into another passage back into the intake.
It does not "control" it, but it could add a bit to it if there is unburned fuel in the gases it reintroduces. In the same breath the O2 sensor should see this and the ECM should compensate.
thanks :) I dont like the ide to put hot exhaust fumes in a already hot engine. So I guess i can plug the hose going from the exhaust. And just take of all the vaccume tubes? I can live with a code32 until i get a custom chip.. And wjere is that censor on the "tube" located, on the manifold?
You will want to either make, or buy a couple of blockoff plates. One for your exhaust manifold, and one for your intake manifold. Block those off, take the tube off and unplug the temp sensor. The temp sensor is in the EGR tube scrwed onto it and connects to the wiring harness down behind the distributor.
I would leave the vacuum lines alone as they are probably old and brittle right now.
Just to add a few things,EGR will also COOL the combustion chamber as much as 500 degrees F.(not sure of Celsius coversion)
If the EGR is sticking/leaking,it can cause too much EGR into the chamber and cause stalling,idle problems,etc.
Little/or Not enough EGR,and it can get too hot inside the chamber causing pinging and stumbling problems.
(not all cars with no EGR exhibit these symptoms..I think engines with bigger cams dont get affected,and even the LT4 motor doesnt need a EGR due to its cam design)
On most cars where the EGR valve is easily access,I would use my fingers and push the valve up and down to see if its sticking.
But the L98 is difficult to check this way without taking the plenum off.
Another way to test the EGR valve for fault,IS to unhook the vacuum line and put a rubber cap on it then go for a test drive to see if the symptoms go away or get worse.
Hope this helps somewhat.I have to say I hate EGR and will like to remove it all someday,aiding in getting rid of ugly plumbing.
I'm doing away with the EGR as well. I was a little weary about doing this at first but this post is making me feel much better. I'm going to keep 1 cat in the exhaust system, do I have to worry about it wearing out quicker w/o the EGR?
I disabled EGR 4 years ago. No overheating, or any codes. No any benefits that you could feel, either :smash:
BUT:
EGR put gases to intake and when you open intake (plenum, runners, manifold) you see what EGR is doing: you will see alot black stuff there. That is what EGR doing. Dirt your intake as hell.
Yea, it is for emission, reduce NOx by reduce combustion temperature.
F**C emission, F**k that as**les from greenpeace and another communists!!! Mother Earth will live without your EGR as well as with it. Your engine will be cleanest inside.
Jerry
I would just leave it on if i were you (mine still is). It helps to keep cylinder temperatures down when doing normal crusing. It turns off when you give it gas and don't want preburned gas going into the cylinders.