Clutch Adjustment?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Clutch Adjustment?
I was out this past weekend. Car only just turned 19k and I've gotten on it a couple of times, but this weekend when I did I didn't let off it fast enough and felt it slip a little and could smell it burning. Didn't quite feel right after that. Feels a little "thin".
Can a stock clutch be adjusted? If not, what kind of job to swap out? Any Faq' docs with a blow-by-blow?
Thanks...
Can a stock clutch be adjusted? If not, what kind of job to swap out? Any Faq' docs with a blow-by-blow?
Thanks...
Drifting
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 2
From: Douglasville GA
Re: Clutch Adjustment? (78Vette-SA)
No, no adjustment of the clutch hydraulics, or clutch for that matter.
Changing clutch...not that bad.
1) Get car up in the air, I recommend jackstands at the normal jacking points.
2) Remove X-brace if equipped
3) Remove exhaust center section
4) Remove console and shifter **** to get to the top of shifter area
5) Remove 4 acorn nuts holding lower shift boot to transmission
6) Remove lower shift boot, place shifter in 3rd
6.5) Remove distributor cap on L98s. When you lower the transmission to remove it, the motor will tilt backwards and may crunch the distributor cap against the firewall. Be safe, if L98, remove it.
7) Remove driveshaft
8) Remove C-Beam (torque arm)
9) Remove slave cylinder, do not remove hydraulic hose
10) Remove transmission
10.5) Remove Bellhousing - may need to loosen clutch fork ball stud to get clutch fork separated from throwout bearing
11) Replace necessary clutch components
12) Replace all parts
13) If anything left over - uh-oh
Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 Coupe with 1996 ZF6
[Modified by tommelton, 9:25 AM 7/4/2002]
[Modified by tommelton, 9:35 PM 7/4/2002]
Changing clutch...not that bad.
1) Get car up in the air, I recommend jackstands at the normal jacking points.
2) Remove X-brace if equipped
3) Remove exhaust center section
4) Remove console and shifter **** to get to the top of shifter area
5) Remove 4 acorn nuts holding lower shift boot to transmission
6) Remove lower shift boot, place shifter in 3rd
6.5) Remove distributor cap on L98s. When you lower the transmission to remove it, the motor will tilt backwards and may crunch the distributor cap against the firewall. Be safe, if L98, remove it.
7) Remove driveshaft
8) Remove C-Beam (torque arm)
9) Remove slave cylinder, do not remove hydraulic hose
10) Remove transmission
10.5) Remove Bellhousing - may need to loosen clutch fork ball stud to get clutch fork separated from throwout bearing
11) Replace necessary clutch components
12) Replace all parts
13) If anything left over - uh-oh
Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 Coupe with 1996 ZF6
[Modified by tommelton, 9:25 AM 7/4/2002]
[Modified by tommelton, 9:35 PM 7/4/2002]
Pro
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver WA
Re: Clutch Adjustment? (tommelton)
Not bad?!?!?!? It has taken me over a year, then of course I have been going slowly and cleaning up the car. But otherwise it sounds like your clutch disk is slipping. I let mine slip for almost a year until one day I accelerated and ripped the disk to shred, my ignorance. My problem was from contaminates and oil. If you can smell something burning and this problem continues change it ASAP.
Good luck
Good luck
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Re: Clutch Adjustment? (tommelton)
No, no adjustment of the clutch hydraulics, or clutch for that matter.
Changing clutch...not that bad.
1) Get car up in the air, I recommend jackstands at the normal jacking points.
2) Remove X-brace if equipped
3) Remove exhaust center section
4) Remove console and shifter **** to get to the top of shifter area
5) Remove 4 acorn nuts holding lower shift boot to transmission
6) Remove lower shift boot, place shifter in 3rd
7) Remove driveshaft
8) Remove C-Beam (torque arm)
9) Remove slave cylinder, do not remove hydraulic hose
10) Remove transmission
11) Replace necessary clutch components
12) Replace all parts
13) If anything left over - uh-oh
Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 Coupe with 1996 ZF6
Changing clutch...not that bad.
1) Get car up in the air, I recommend jackstands at the normal jacking points.
2) Remove X-brace if equipped
3) Remove exhaust center section
4) Remove console and shifter **** to get to the top of shifter area
5) Remove 4 acorn nuts holding lower shift boot to transmission
6) Remove lower shift boot, place shifter in 3rd
7) Remove driveshaft
8) Remove C-Beam (torque arm)
9) Remove slave cylinder, do not remove hydraulic hose
10) Remove transmission
11) Replace necessary clutch components
12) Replace all parts
13) If anything left over - uh-oh
Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 Coupe with 1996 ZF6
Thanks for the bullets. Doesn't sound that bad. Biggest PITA sounds like the console to me.
Joe..
Drifting
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 2
From: Douglasville GA
Re: Clutch Adjustment? (78Vette-SA)
What you talking bout Willis? The bellhousing info is there! (...now...) thanks..
-Tom
-Tom
No, no adjustment of the clutch hydraulics, or clutch for that matter.
Changing clutch...not that bad.
1) Get car up in the air, I recommend jackstands at the normal jacking points.
2) Remove X-brace if equipped
3) Remove exhaust center section
4) Remove console and shifter **** to get to the top of shifter area
5) Remove 4 acorn nuts holding lower shift boot to transmission
6) Remove lower shift boot, place shifter in 3rd
7) Remove driveshaft
8) Remove C-Beam (torque arm)
9) Remove slave cylinder, do not remove hydraulic hose
10) Remove transmission
10.5) Remove Bellhousing - may need to loosen clutch fork ball stud to get clutch fork separated from throwout bearing
11) Replace necessary clutch components
12) Replace all parts
13) If anything left over - uh-oh
Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 Coupe with 1996 ZF6
Dumb additional question - what about the bellhousing?
Thanks for the bullets. Doesn't sound that bad. Biggest PITA sounds like the console to me.
Joe..
Changing clutch...not that bad.
1) Get car up in the air, I recommend jackstands at the normal jacking points.
2) Remove X-brace if equipped
3) Remove exhaust center section
4) Remove console and shifter **** to get to the top of shifter area
5) Remove 4 acorn nuts holding lower shift boot to transmission
6) Remove lower shift boot, place shifter in 3rd
7) Remove driveshaft
8) Remove C-Beam (torque arm)
9) Remove slave cylinder, do not remove hydraulic hose
10) Remove transmission
10.5) Remove Bellhousing - may need to loosen clutch fork ball stud to get clutch fork separated from throwout bearing
11) Replace necessary clutch components
12) Replace all parts
13) If anything left over - uh-oh
Tom Melton
82 CE
86 Z51 Coupe with 1996 ZF6
Dumb additional question - what about the bellhousing?
Thanks for the bullets. Doesn't sound that bad. Biggest PITA sounds like the console to me.
Joe..
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Re: Clutch Adjustment? (tommelton)
What you talking bout Willis? The bellhousing info is there! (...now...) thanks..
-Tom
-Tom
Are the BH bolts hard to get at?
Drifting
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 2
From: Douglasville GA
Re: Clutch Adjustment? (78Vette-SA)
Bellhousing bolts - not too bad. Add another step in the above...
6.5) Remove distributor cap on L98s. When you lower the transmission to remove it, the motor will tilt backwards and may crunch the distributor cap against the firewall. Be safe, if L98, remove it.
Now, with the motor tilted, and the transmission removed, the bolts on the bellhousing can be gotten to pretty easy. I have a set of wobble extensions and they help out tremendously. The hardest bolt for me to get to was the driver side, middle bolt. The one marked "y" below, when looking at the heads of the bolts. (dots added for spacing purposes...)
......x.........x
y.....................x
x.....................x
-Tom
[Modified by tommelton, 9:34 PM 7/4/2002]
[Modified by tommelton, 9:35 PM 7/4/2002]
6.5) Remove distributor cap on L98s. When you lower the transmission to remove it, the motor will tilt backwards and may crunch the distributor cap against the firewall. Be safe, if L98, remove it.
Now, with the motor tilted, and the transmission removed, the bolts on the bellhousing can be gotten to pretty easy. I have a set of wobble extensions and they help out tremendously. The hardest bolt for me to get to was the driver side, middle bolt. The one marked "y" below, when looking at the heads of the bolts. (dots added for spacing purposes...)
......x.........x
y.....................x
x.....................x
-Tom
[Modified by tommelton, 9:34 PM 7/4/2002]
[Modified by tommelton, 9:35 PM 7/4/2002]
