rear lug stud removal (1987)
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Brandon Fl
rear lug stud removal (1987)
Anyone done this? I'm putting in longer studs for my new wheels and just holding the stud up there it doesn't look like they will fit in from the back even if I remove the E brake. Anyone done this? Tips?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: WI
I change the wheel studs fairly often from using up bearings at track events. I have wanted to change the studs on the car before and they really don't fit. I was able to do it by using a file on the casting ridge to gain the needed clearance. I thought I had a picture but I can't find it. I've had them filed like that for a long time with no issues.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
Your car is an 88 and is different. Aside from my e brake being there I wonder what other things are different. I'm going to remove the e brake tonight and see what I've got going on
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Not as dramatic as in this image but similar. You want to do a taper grind but only enough to allow the stud to clear. This is NOT my image - it's one I was able to source on Google. The head needs only a minor knick of the OD not anything required getting near the knurled surface.
Removing the e-brake may get you just what you need but if you still have issues this will get it done.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 7, 2013 at 06:26 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
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instead of all that work AND the risk of a home made stud failing in some rather bad way....
why not just buy a set of adaptors that will bolt to the existing hub/studs and they will have longer studs that will carry the wheel just fine. You can order whatever stud you want in the adaptor.
I have these on all 4 corners...never a problem. Billet aluminum is as strong as the original hub mount,. search EZ-accessory. Should cost around $75 a pair...sometimes less on sale.
why not just buy a set of adaptors that will bolt to the existing hub/studs and they will have longer studs that will carry the wheel just fine. You can order whatever stud you want in the adaptor.
I have these on all 4 corners...never a problem. Billet aluminum is as strong as the original hub mount,. search EZ-accessory. Should cost around $75 a pair...sometimes less on sale.
Team Owner
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instead of all that work AND the risk of a home made stud failing in some rather bad way....
why not just buy a set of adaptors that will bolt to the existing hub/studs and they will have longer studs that will carry the wheel just fine. You can order whatever stud you want in the adaptor.
I have these on all 4 corners...never a problem. Billet aluminum is as strong as the original hub mount,. search EZ-accessory. Should cost around $75 a pair...sometimes less on sale.
why not just buy a set of adaptors that will bolt to the existing hub/studs and they will have longer studs that will carry the wheel just fine. You can order whatever stud you want in the adaptor.
I have these on all 4 corners...never a problem. Billet aluminum is as strong as the original hub mount,. search EZ-accessory. Should cost around $75 a pair...sometimes less on sale.
I changed the image and it does NOT need ground in as "dramatic" modification as the image displays, only ground on an angle to allow clearance when inserting the stud beyond the obstructions of hub/brake etc. With the e-brake removed you might not even need to modify it at all. On a later 88+ car on the rear when ground in a less dramatic fashion the stud inserts easily clearing the knuckle at 11:00 and by just rotating the hub. An early car - I mentioned I had never done.
There's nothing "homemade" and there's no "risk of failure" - there's wheel studs that are actually manufactured and used in that fashion "by design". The HMMV (Hummer) run-flat actually uses a wheels stud that is "flat" on two sides opposite one another.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Looking at an image of the rear brakes I believe I see the OP's concern. It's certainly nothing as simple as yours or my experience. Not being able to have a "hands on" it's difficult to tell what needs done. If a person has experience with the rear suspension and done it a few times it might be easier to just remove the hubs and do the studs off the car. After looking at the e-brake that might be what I'd consider having access to all the tools.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 7, 2013 at 10:08 AM.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
Great news for early car owners. No mods needed to put longer studs in. I took all of 5 minutes to do the studs on each side. Of course with the good you know there will be bad. Whoever designed this e brake needs to be found and killed!!! This is the craziest most annoying thing I've ever worked on.
New stud in
Here is a shot of it being put in
In this pic I found you can put 2 in at once with the top at 12ish and the other at the 9 oclock. pics a little off I was holding my tablet with my shoulder to get the pic.
On the other side I found I could do the whole thing with only partly removing the one shoe of the e brake. My thought was it would be easier to put back together and I was wrong. I still have to put the brakes back together but I need a second set of hands so hopefully I can get that done Wednesday.
Anyway here's a shot of that
New stud in
Here is a shot of it being put in
In this pic I found you can put 2 in at once with the top at 12ish and the other at the 9 oclock. pics a little off I was holding my tablet with my shoulder to get the pic.
On the other side I found I could do the whole thing with only partly removing the one shoe of the e brake. My thought was it would be easier to put back together and I was wrong. I still have to put the brakes back together but I need a second set of hands so hopefully I can get that done Wednesday.
Anyway here's a shot of that
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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It's good to see it went well. When I suggested those studs I couldn't imagine you having issues but then you asked! The studs that I installed and the studs "Aardwolf" I believe installed were substantially longer than the ones I suggested for your install. Mine were to add an 18mm spacer to my rears and I imagine the "Aardwolf" install is probably to satisfy a sanctioning body's requirement of exposed threads. Don't know.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 426
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From: Detroit MI
It's great to see this can be done without taking the hubs off.
I did a change to longer studs and took them off. Not a quick n easy job for sure.
What are the details that made it work ?
Stud part number ?
I did a change to longer studs and took them off. Not a quick n easy job for sure.
What are the details that made it work ?
Stud part number ?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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The stud I suggested is a Dorman 610-323 and it's a service stud for an H3 Hummer without the dog-point. It's the least expensive that offered a length that would likely correct the situation he had with a wheel install. There are other options for length but these looked to maybe to more readily available and as I mentioned "priced right". Most any auto parts store should be able to help. No need for the Internet purchases -
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 110
From: Brandon Fl
It's good to see it went well. When I suggested those studs I couldn't imagine you having issues but then you asked! The studs that I installed and the studs "Aardwolf" I believe installed were substantially longer than the ones I suggested for your install. Mine were to add an 18mm spacer to my rears and I imagine the "Aardwolf" install is probably to satisfy a sanctioning body's requirement of exposed threads. Don't know.
Team Owner
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Your studs are 9mm longer than the ones I suggested that he use, he had no need for any more threads than what the one used provided. I've never used the ARP product but used instead a GM stud that was similar to the ARP maybe longer but was way less expensive than the ARP. That's not the case any longer so the ARP at some of the prices "posted" by I-net vendors is likely a good buy. The Dorman I suggested is a stud that can be either purchased from walk-in or ordered locally from the store with "no shipping". If there's a packaging problem when received it's settled "toe to toe" - a no nonsense buy!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 426
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From: Detroit MI
Those ARP studs are what I used and I took the hub off to do it.
Guessing we did this for the same reason in the back.
If I knew the Dorman was that easy to get in there it would probably be on mine too !
Guessing we did this for the same reason in the back.
If I knew the Dorman was that easy to get in there it would probably be on mine too !
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Newport News Virginia