Not really sure where to start with this - ordered a replacement set of Bilstein's for my '94 Vette and the shocks basically look the same as the OEM set that I took off. The difference that has me puzzled is in the shock bushings. Those on the rear shocks look identical to the new shocks but according to Bilstein instructions the bushing with the shoulder that fits into the mounting plate, is to be placed on top of the plate whereas the old shock had this bushing mounted from the bottom of the plate.

The new front shock bushings are totally different than the OEM set. The new front shock bushings are very similar to the rear bushing set and instructions call for the shoulder bushing to be mounted on the top of the mounting plate. The OEM set had a huge lower bushing which actually snapped into the mounting plate from the bottom with the upper bushing center hole, large enough to fit over the lower bushing......sorry this isn't clearer, if I knew how to post a pix it would make this a bunch simpler.

Anyhow, the question is - does anyone have any experience with the new shocks that Bilstein is shipping and do I need to be concerned about the bushing differences? The car has FE1 suspension (I believe that's the standard or base suspension package.) The shocks I bought were Bilstein P/N B46-2053 (front) and B46-2054 (rear).

Thanks guys, I'm really stumped by this one.


:confused: :confused: :confused:


[Modified by Topload, 3:06 PM 7/4/2002]

 

I'm not totally clear on what you are seeing, but from my experience with Bilsteins on my Grand National, just use the bushings that came with the shocks, in the configuration of your original shock set-up. If they did not send you some of the parts, then re-use those particular original parts.

I hope that makes sense to you.

 

Hmmm. Well according to this, you have the correct part numbers for your '94.

I'm having a hard time visualizing what you are saying. :confused:

 

Thanks guys - I was a little afraid of the confusion factor. Basically the new bushing set is significantly different than the OEM set. I've installed the new shocks/bushings and everything seems (?) to fit okay, I'm just concerned that the difference in the bushings and mounting method may cause some handling problems. Didn't want to drive the car if I was making some major mistake in using the new bushing set.

The real difference is in the front set of hardware and the method in which the old bushings fit one inside the other. I think the old design was to keep bushing material between the upper shock shaft and the mounting plate. It appears the new bushings aren't designed as aggressively and don't seem to provide the same level of isolation. Just wanted a thumbs up from someone who has made the same swap, noticed the difference and has been successfully driving with the new installation.

Appreciate your replies - sorry for the ugly nature of the description - just tough to relate in words I guess.

:)

 

i agree with the above, make it look like your old setup with the old bushings using your new ones. if i remember right the front bushings are a bit smaller than OEM with the new shocks & also don't have the thingy-ma-bober sticking up that fits in the mount plate. it's not big deal & the squeesh fine, make sure you don't over compress the rubber !! you don't want it hanging way out past the washer. as long as the shock is stable you should be okay. the instrustions are printed for 100's of cars if there similar to the ones i had. see what you think, i drove on the bilstein sport shocks for about 3 months before selling them to another forum member for $150 & upgrading to konis. i just didn't like the rebound dampening, too soft and bouncy for my liking. they are a good deal more stable than a stock worn out shock though. anyone who has a fx3 would be well suited to do there race upgrade. jeffvettes zr1 is just outstanding to ride in, we hit corners left and right in that after the revalve and it is very stable. basically koni sport performance {or better} with the OEM electronic adjustibility.


[Modified by gtsyellow, 3:03 PM 7/4/2002]

 

Thanks gtsyellow - I guess if the OEM bushings weren't so warped and dry, I would think about re-using them but installed the new bushings instead. I didn't compress the new bushings beyond the edges of the steel washers (basically similar compression as the OEM's).

You're not making me to happy with your story about only driving 3 months on your Bilstein's before swapping them out. I'm replacing mine to see if I can tighten up the handling at upper speeds. I noticed a nasty front end bouncing problem at 100+ that seemed to be shock related....I guess I'll see. Since I don't race the car, I don't mind a little softer ride - just would hate to find the rebound damping was worse than the worn OEM set - they have 60K miles on them. Really wish my car had the FX3 option.

:flag

 

mine were DEFINATLY better than the worn oem shocks but over 70mph they were more floaty than i liked, under that and street driving they were fine. it's not really like they were totally scary over 70 but they just didn't have the same wheel feedback the koni yellows do. also if you get a sticky tire on the bilsteins they tend to lean pretty bad. it might be possible to send your stockers in for race valving & then you'd have 2 sets of shocks. i know bilstein does a lot of revalve work. try it & see what you think. the first week i had my bilsteins i was like hmm..this isn't bad, definatly better than it was. then on different roads & definatly over 70mph in corners i was a little more white knuckled than i should be. the tires were sticking but i didn't like how much lean and kick back i had, i wound up lowering my rear a little more just so the back end didn't kick out from the lack of rebound dampening in hard corners at speed.

 

Certainly gives me something to consider. I was going to scrap the OEM Bilstein's and now I think I'll sit on them while I do some test driving. The condition you relate at 70+ is almost exactly what I'm attempting to eliminate by doing the shock replacement. Guess I'll just have to get out there on the pavement and see how it behaves.....then decide if having Bilstein re-valve the OEM set would be necessary.

Thanks for the tip and your info.

:seeya