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Is there a special brackets for the LT1 to pull the engine out or will a universal one work. I seen one I thought on ebay which came with both SAE and metric bolts, but don't seem to find them now. Is it safe to bolt it into the aluminum head or should it be bolted into the engine block. Can all the accessories be left on. I am more concerned about reinstallation of the engine with all the accessories on it. Would straps work better around the whole engine work safely?
Is it safe to bolt it into the aluminum head or should it be bolted into the engine block.
I drop the exh manifolds and just use a chain bolted diagonally from the end of one head to the other into the exh bolt holes
with something to stop the chain hitting anything ( rocker covers ,intake etc ) when the weight comes on it
Search for happy hooker. I purchased mine used, and what it does is bolt to the intake. Its balanced so that the motor stays level. I pull mine with the headers, all accessories except the ps pump attached. Works great.
Bolting the happy hooker using the 4 bolts from the fuel rail looks pretty scary, not that the bolts would break, but that the threads would strip out.
Which side is the easiest to remove and replace the engine? I'm thinking drivers side as AC/heater stuff is on the right and only brake and clutch slave is on the left and the computer is already removed.
On reinstalling engine, is it pretty hard to align the transmission as this is a six speed manual? Radiator is already out too.
[QUOTE=scotth48;1585237581]Bolting the happy hooker using the 4 bolts from the fuel rail looks pretty scary, not that the bolts would break, but that the threads would strip out.
you would think so, but it does not seem to be a problem. A lot of people use them and I have never seen a problem with it.
Which side is the easiest to remove and replace the engine? I'm thinking drivers side as AC/heater stuff is on the right and only brake and clutch slave is on the left and the computer is already removed.
Not sure it makes any difference since you have to come straight up with the lift. FWIW I did mine on the passenger side, but that is because of the way its in the garage.
On reinstalling engine, is it pretty hard to align the transmission as this is a six speed manual? Radiator is already out too.[/QUOTE]
I and most others drop the trans out first, then lift the motor straight up. No need to remove the radiator. It really is different from other cars. FWIW do a search on engine removal. There are several threads and you can get an idea of whats involved.
Yep, driver's side is best. Be careful of the oil senders at the top rear of the motor. Easy to hit and break them, especially when tilting the engine.
Not saying you are wrong, but why do you say the drivers side is better then pass. side? I am assuming you are lifting straight up.
Be careful of the oil senders at the top rear of the motor. Easy to hit and break them, especially when tilting the engine.
Agree, also watch the wiper motor, and I like to pull the flywheel before lifting to keep it from catching the wiring harness. Again, with the happy hooker the motor pretty much stays flat and does not tilt. Its pretty well balanced.
These mounts have been used for years by a lot of people and Ive never heard of one breaking out when being pulled. In fact they make the same thing for carbed vehicles and again, a lot have been pulled with them.
As posted earlier, you can take the manifolds or headers off and put a bolt through with a chain. but be careful not to gouge the alum. head, or let the chain mess up the drive train.
Its your choice
I did buy a new crane hoist from harbor freight this week, the heavier 2 ton model an the heavy duty leveler, just got to assemble everything. I tried to order the happy hooker but my order did not go through, tried calling them but being Friday they close an hour early so will check on Monday morning. I kept trying to go to the next window, I probably now have 10 of them ordered! That crane was heavy getting it out of the car, at least the one box of the two. I guess everything seems to get heavy when you get old! I certainly want to get this engine in before it gets much colder here in Michigan.
It was on sale for $ 219. At first they looked pretty much identicle between the two 2 ton units, but it has a birrer hydraulic cylinder and the tuning walls are slightly larger gauge. The bolts were SAE 3 and SAE 5 on the heavier unit. The lighter unit sold for $ 189. Both are good buys I feel. Just I had a nice heated shop to work in.