headlight switch
#4
Race Director
You need to take the dash pad off. I can't get to the screws above the instrument cluster unless I take off the cluster bezel first. Then you push in on the headlight shaft release button, which allows the shaft to come out. Use a large screwdriver to remove the nut (there are slots in the end). Here's an "exploded view" of the headlight switch (the shaft release button is the thing that looks sorta like a nail with a spring under the head -- this is the position it mounts in the dash, so the release button is on the side):
#5
#7
Race Director
According to vetteoz's quote it's a 10 minute job.
Since you seem to want more details than vague hand waving that tells you nothing...
You need to remove the instrument cluster bezel. To do that you have to first take off the headlight switch ****. Then it's a bunch of Phillips screws. The front one on the side near the door hinge pillar is kinda hard to get to. I use a stubby Phillips screwdriver or a right-angle ratchet.
Remove 3 screws above the instrument cluster into the pad.
Remove 2 screws in the defroster duct area. They are very long (about 2").
Remove 2 screws above the center bezel. On my car they're 7mm hex heads.
In VERY RARE cases there is a screw at the far right end of the dashboard. Most of the time that screw is missing (left out at the factory).
Now the dash pad comes out by pulling it straight back. If your car has a Delco radio (not the Bose), then there are speakers in the dash pad. They must be disconnected before the dash pad can be taken out.
There are several clips along the front of the pad that fit into holes at the base of the windshield. When you put the dash pad back in it is important to get those clips into the holes (push down on the top of the pad). If you miss the hole the clip can get bent over and the dash pad will bulge up at that location.
This is a picture of the Delco radio version. The front clips are on either side of the speaker:
Since you seem to want more details than vague hand waving that tells you nothing...
You need to remove the instrument cluster bezel. To do that you have to first take off the headlight switch ****. Then it's a bunch of Phillips screws. The front one on the side near the door hinge pillar is kinda hard to get to. I use a stubby Phillips screwdriver or a right-angle ratchet.
Remove 3 screws above the instrument cluster into the pad.
Remove 2 screws in the defroster duct area. They are very long (about 2").
Remove 2 screws above the center bezel. On my car they're 7mm hex heads.
In VERY RARE cases there is a screw at the far right end of the dashboard. Most of the time that screw is missing (left out at the factory).
Now the dash pad comes out by pulling it straight back. If your car has a Delco radio (not the Bose), then there are speakers in the dash pad. They must be disconnected before the dash pad can be taken out.
There are several clips along the front of the pad that fit into holes at the base of the windshield. When you put the dash pad back in it is important to get those clips into the holes (push down on the top of the pad). If you miss the hole the clip can get bent over and the dash pad will bulge up at that location.
This is a picture of the Delco radio version. The front clips are on either side of the speaker:
#8
Race Director
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568768408-post5.html
Last edited by Cliff Harris; 10-28-2013 at 01:49 AM.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
I justvreplaced the headlighswitch still no fog lights or interior lights bhut if I jump the brown wire the fog lights work if I jump the green wire the interior lights work its gotta be a bad switch right im going back to autozone wish me luck
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
So I got another headlight switch no different still no foglights or lights at gear selector or climate control I have one of those power probe things if I give it power to the brown wire at the headlight switch the fog
lights come on so the bulbsandwiring is good I still cant figure this out any help would be appreciated thanks
lights come on so the bulbsandwiring is good I still cant figure this out any help would be appreciated thanks
#11
Race Director
I looked at the switch I took out of an '84 Corvette and see that it has a metal jumper between terminals 3 and 4. The brown wire is on terminal 4, so I think you need that jumper to make your fog lights work.
I believe that GM has been using the same basic headlight switch for a million years, so I doubt that the new ones that you got are somehow different enough not to work -- except for that jumper. It might be a special part for Corvettes.
I believe that GM has been using the same basic headlight switch for a million years, so I doubt that the new ones that you got are somehow different enough not to work -- except for that jumper. It might be a special part for Corvettes.
#13
#15
#17
Race Director
Here's a pic of the pin numbers on the 1984 Corvette headlight switch I have:
If you don't have the jumper from pin 3 to pin 4 then you might be able to get it to work by swapping the brown wire terminal into the spot for pin 3 (I didn't make a note of the letter) in the connector shell.
If you don't have the jumper from pin 3 to pin 4 then you might be able to get it to work by swapping the brown wire terminal into the spot for pin 3 (I didn't make a note of the letter) in the connector shell.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well fog lights work and the lights on the gear selector works also I replaced the headlight switch connector I guess it was bad but now the courtesy lights come on when I turn the headlight **** but not when the door opens any ideas thanks they were working before also its a vert and thevhatch release dosent work on the doors but it works from the center console
Last edited by 86 pace car; 10-29-2013 at 04:49 PM.
#19
Race Director
The door hatch release switches are tied in with the courtesy lights. The courtesy light delay module supplies power to the hatch release switches. Apparently that was done to force you to have the door open in order to open the hatch. The stupid part of this is that you can't get to the door hatch release switches with the doors closed anyway. So...
Does the DOOR AJAR light on the DIC come on if the ignition is on (with the door open, of course)?
You might have a stuck door ajar switch (they tend to stick in the pushed-in position). It's near the hatch release switch. The only lubricant I have used that works reliably is WD-40.
Does the DOOR AJAR light on the DIC come on if the ignition is on (with the door open, of course)?
You might have a stuck door ajar switch (they tend to stick in the pushed-in position). It's near the hatch release switch. The only lubricant I have used that works reliably is WD-40.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; 10-30-2013 at 02:03 AM.
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
The door switches are both sticking when there out the door ajar light comes on I ordered a new courtesy lamp delay module I think thats it because when I jump the wiresthe lights go on and I can open the bhatch release one more question I unscrewed the door switches and they dont screw back into the door did something drop inside of both doors thanks again for all the help cliff now I have to wait a few days for the part to arrive