kennyh19

Hi ... I have a 1988 Corvette, manual trans with OD. Everything from the engine has been rebuilt 2 years ago. New fuel pump this year. Car is running fantastic. Have not used it much this year. Started it last week to take it into winter storage and here is what happened.......
Car has been sitting for about a month, battery was low, charged it and started the car with no problem. Car idled for about 3 min, then stopped. Turned the car off then on. Waited for the binging to stop and then tried to start it. Would not crank over. No clink or any noise from the starter.
1. Cleaned all wires and tried again. Sane thing will not crank over. All the lights, dash, radio, windows, seats, climate control work. There is no dimming when I try to start the car. Also checked all fuses and are OK.
2. Jump the starter battery wire to the solenoid wire. Car cranked over started but stop when I took the wire away. Tried again but would crank over but not start. Thus I feel the starter is good.
3. Jumped the clutch safety relay....made no difference same problem.
4. Went under the dash to wires coming from ignition switch. Found a thick yellow wire. With ignition on this yellow wire has no voltage, turning switch to start position yellow wire has 12 volts.

My deduction is there is an open rely or break in the wiring from the yellow ignition start wire to the starter. I was going to wire this directly but better to check that out with the experts. I believe there is a security rely in the yellow wire flow. Could it of just stopped? ... Can I jump that rely ?

I look forward to the pro's helping me find this problem. Like to get this baby in storage with the problem corrected before the snow flies...
Thanking you in advance....
Kenny

vetteoz

Check the starter enable relay that is on the starter circuit

Jump the relay connector terminals to bypass the relay and see if it starts.( it will crank over )
If it does crank ,the relay is faulty
If it doesn't crank you have a break somewhere between the Ign switch and starter

If it cranks but does not fire you most likely have a VATS problem which takes out the starter and fuel injectors
http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

kennyh19

Thanks will try this right away ... and that picture is at the steering column under the dash ?

vetteoz

Center of dash behind the DIC.
Have to remove the fascia that covers the A/c and stereo to beble to remove the DIC

DanielRicany

Right off the top of my head I was thinking VATS, especially because your lights do not dim when you turn the key, they are supposed to under normal conditions. However, I will say this one thing, without a wiring diagram, you are completely lost.

vetteoz

As I noted above
If he can get it to crank but not fire then it is a VATS issue

MrWillys

The starter enable relays sole purpose is to receive authorization from the VATS module prior to operation. Therefore, if it is a fault in the starting of the vehicle it IS part of the VATS system that has failed.

kennyh19

OK ...I have the reply out and the terminals are coated in black sticky gunk... looks like something in the rely or where ever was leaking ....

So there are two large yellow wires, one large green w yellow strip wire and small solid green wire ..... which ones do i connect to bypass?

There is 12 volts to one of the large yellow wires when ignition switch is in start position

MrWillys

Try here:
http://www.vatssucks.com/
Click on starter enable relay on the left.

Cliff Harris

That's dielectric grease. It's supposed to be in there to prevent the connector contacts from corroding.

The VATS sucks web site will tell you how to bypass that relay (or you could replace it).

I would at least bypass it temporarily just to verify that the problem is in the relay.

kennyh19

You guys have be GREAT ...I really appreciate you following this thread for me... I think I am almost to the end of the problem ...

Jumped the wires as per VATS sucks instructions .... The car now cranks over .... Starts and runs for 2 to 3 seconds then shuts off.... I can do these over and over ....

I think this is telling me VATS is sending signals to the starter and ECM because I can crank the engine and it will start and run thus there is spark.... but because it runs for such a short time I suspect the engine is just using fuel in the fuel rails ... i do not think VATS has signaled / connected the fuel pump.....

Note fuel pump fuse is good and fuel pump is 3 months old.

I am thinking to override / bypass the VATS to see if there is a problem there as well re the fuel system.... any comments or suggestions ??

MrWillys

If the starter cranks, and the engine fires there's no vats issue. Something else is killing the engine. vats will only stop it from starting, but never stop it.

383vett

kennyh19

It starts but stops after 2 seconds

Well not sure what is left other than tow it into the dealership .... and that will be big bucks ...

If any of you have another ideas...I am e
willing to try them .... thanks

MrWillys

Have you ohmed the injectors yet. Record each reading and report result.

kennyh19

Sorry do not know how to ohm the injectors ... I see them but there is nothing in the service manual that shows me how to take them out to get at the contacts to measure them.... plus it is getting cold and I do not want to poke around too much as the plastic parts will break

MrWillys

The black plastic electrical connection. Push on the silver springy thingy and pull up being careful to pull up on only the plastic cap, and not the wires. Use a Multi meter set to ohms and measure between the two contacts on the injectors. No removal (other than the cap) required. post results.

kennyh19

all injectors read 12 ..... but meter is very cold ...not that will make a difference ....tomorrow I can bring out the heater and keep it warm if this does not sound correct...

MrWillys

Honestly, it's kinda funny they're all exactly the same, and not 12.1 11.9 and 12.2. what is the number off the injector? If these are good we should look at the ICM. Will it restart after it dies? If not, do you have spark after it dies?

kennyh19

I do not have the easiest meter to read...I should get a digital read one ... to get the decimals ....

Yes...each time it dies ,,I can restart immediately and it will again run for about 2 seconds then stop..... and will it is running the engine is very smooth .... thanks for your patience and sticky with this problem.... I will keep going if you will .....