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Hi , I'm looking for some support in putting my intake and fuel sys back together .1986 vert
I have removed for new gasket and injector replacement .not doing any mods just want this get car to run .
Ordered new injectors from fic , new egr and rebuild kit for fuel reg
have to repair egr flex tube . removed and cleaned everything and hope to start putting back together next week. My car thread seemed to fade away so I started one just for the install .I've read some old threads here but could use some help as i'm not getting along to well with the shop manual .
I Think the basic steps are
Lower manifold using grey best stuff on the front and back after dimpliling the manifold in this area
Not sure what to used on bolts .sealant or just anti seize ???
2 distributer /egr
3 then the complete fuel injection rail
4 then the runners
5 wiring and plenum
6 valve covers
8 all the other stuff
any help suggestions appreciated .
anti sieze is good for the intake manifold bolts, if you can swap out the original torx bolts for something easier to bolt in that helps (dont put too much torque on those bolts if you have aluminum heads,
make sure the wiring loom for the injectors is in place before the runners and plenum go on,
and if its an auto make sure the trans cable to throttle body is behind the runners before you bolt them to the plenum
At least 3/8" bead of the Right Stuff on china walls front and rear. Plus a very thin amount of the RS on both sides of the gasket around the coolant passages. Small dab of RS at ends of gaskets top and bottom at rear and front where gaskets meet china walls. Drop intake as straight down as you can so it doesn't slide to smear the RS sealant.
Identify which bolts that hole the intake to the heads pass thru to the valley. Any bolt that passes into the valley use a thread sealant on the threads. If the bolt goes into a blind hole....use anti-seize.
Any bolt that goes into aluminum, the intake and plenum use anti-seize on the threads.
Hope you labeled all the parts, bolts, wires and hoses before you took things apart.
I put a little RTV on the base bolts. The ones going into the water passages tend to leak water. Oil can wick up the others. Not enough to be a problem but it looks bad when the intake is oily/dirty.
thank you . I'll print this out and stick it on the windshield . Right stuff not best stuff
never used it before I picked it up cost as much as the valve cover gaskets . I hope to start on it Tuesday hopefully this car will run after all this .
When I did mine I used a Fel-Pro gasket set. It came with some silicone stuff for the front and back.
I used Aviation Permatex on the intake manifold bolts because they go through the heads and into the center oil gallery (cast iron heads -- aluminum heads might be different).
I put some silicone on the gaskets around the water passages. I had a leak there. The original gaskets were saturated with water and leaking.
Yes the coolant ports on this were bleeding .I just bought it and found no stat in it so I put one in and learned why the po removed it .instant coolant leak at the back of the manifold .also when removing the injectors I found them to be glued in with rtv .its been a nightmare so far . I'm just hoping that we can get some enjoyment out of it for all the work and money . Its worth more in new parts than it is whole now .
this product the right stuff seems to be the ticket on intakes .can it be used like rtv is or instead of rtv ?// or is there a downside to it like impossible removal ?/ I haven't sat down and read the can yet. should I use it on the bolts or rtv ???
Did some research on the right stuff .I will use rtv on the bolts that go thru as rs may be a problem for bolt removal .I read its like glue
More questions on RS
should I be in a hurry to place and bolt down the manifold after putting on the right stuff
(5 min dry ) or should I take my time so the rs firms up a bit like used to do with rtv?
I work alone so should I use black rtv around my coolant ports on both sides of the gaskets instead of fast drying Rs .place the gaskets then use the right stuff on the china walls and then put the manifold on top and bolt down/torque down .I 'm thinking using rtv on coolant ports buys me more time with the R S dry time .If I rush the stuff is going to be everywhere
I being **** about this as the car has been a quite a disappointment and costly with no enjoyment so far . I don't think I will take it apart again if the first assembly fails to work .If so only to part out the car to try to get some of my investment back. A lot of doctoring went into this car before they found a fool to buy it .(me)
thank you , all my parts except the tpi gaskets are in so tomorrow I'll stick in the lower manifold and rebuild the fuel rail and fuel reg .
Thanks Again
I being **** about this as the car has been a quite a disappointment and costly with no enjoyment so far . I don't think I will take it apart again if the first assembly fails to work .If so only to part out the car to try to get some of my investment back. A lot of doctoring went into this car before they found a fool to buy it .(me)
most people here who work on their own cars feel your pain !
sounds like you are in a bad position of having to do major work after buying the car without being able to enjoy it first, but just keep plugging away and all the pain is soon forgotten after you get to drive it,
as far as putting the inlet manifold on, have a look on you tube, you will find instructional videos of everything on there
I always do a dry run before final assembly, this insures you have all of the bolts in the right place, and ready to go. Have your torque wrench handy with the specs in front of you..[use a torque pattern] do a final wipe on all sealing surface's, I use Alcohol on any surface's requiring sealant, Some people use brake cleaner.. [including bolts.] If you use RTV make sure it is Sensor safe. I like the ultra grey sealant from Permatex my-self, it cures slowly and won't (skin over) before things get assembled. Make sure you bring the Manifold down Squarely, and don't move it around, or you can Compromise the China Wall sealing.. I usually get an hand with this, one guy on each side of the engine.
have the car all together except the egr tube fell apart in my hands when I went to put it back on .no seems to carry this anone know of a source , even the clamp is discontinued at nappa ,advance and autozone . its the only thing I need to start it .
I was considering plugging it but I would like to replace it as I have so many other problems to work out with this thing and don't want to open any other bag of worms .If I plug the manifold I fear I'll destroy the flange on it .It has the type that clamps on so I''''d have to tac something in on the manifold .I tried everywhere including used and found nothing .I wanted to go thru this thig and get everything right without modifying anything . I placed a ad in the parts section see what happens Thanks