C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Ready to install new Opti. Advice?

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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 93LT1
Don't forget to grease the WP coupler and install the two O rings. One O-ring towards the water pump and the other toward the engine. If your planning to keep this car I would consider modifying the Opti to support the vented setup. (dosn't require changing the frt cover etc.)
I did not see any O -rings on the WP coupler at all when I took it out. Are we talking just regular O-rings or are they specialized? Do you happen to know the size or should I just take a couple that fit from the hundreds that I have? Got the Opti in and it went in easily. I hooked up the drivers side wires before I seated the Opti into place and that was a big help in knowing that the wires are secure. I also wrote on the front of the Opti marking what numbers went to which wires. I used a metallic paint pen and it worked like a charm. That is a great idea to divert the weephole on the WP! I will probably just epoxy a fitting into it and run a piece of hose. Very clever.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Den14
Going to install the new Opti in my 1992 LT-1.
How many miles on that 92 ? not telling you to do this, but I would seriously consider pulling the timing chain cover and replacing the timing chain; the OEM link and pin style chains stretch (which is actually wear between the links and pins). Then with the timing chain cover off and on the bench, all three seals (water pump, opti, and crank hub) can be replaced; it's a 21 year old car and seals don't last forever.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
How many miles on that 92 ? not telling you to do this, but I would seriously consider pulling the timing chain cover and replacing the timing chain; the OEM link and pin style chains stretch (which is actually wear between the links and pins). Then with the timing chain cover off and on the bench, all three seals (water pump, opti, and crank hub) can be replaced; it's a 21 year old car and seals don't last forever.
It's over 100k now. I have never done a timing chain replacement. What are the tools needed?
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Den14
I did not see any O -rings on the WP coupler at all when I took it out. Are we talking just regular O-rings or are they specialized? Do you happen to know the size or should I just take a couple that fit from the hundreds that I have? Got the Opti in and it went in easily. I hooked up the drivers side wires before I seated the Opti into place and that was a big help in knowing that the wires are secure. I also wrote on the front of the Opti marking what numbers went to which wires. I used a metallic paint pen and it worked like a charm. That is a great idea to divert the weephole on the WP! I will probably just epoxy a fitting into it and run a piece of hose. Very clever.
GM P/N 12553792

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12553792
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
Thanks for the link! Still unsure of the purpose but if they are supposed to be there I am going to put them on.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 03:23 PM
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They help keep the coupler in place.

http://shbox.com/ci/water_pump.jpg



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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 05:31 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Den14
It's over 100k now. I have never done a timing chain replacement. What are the tools needed?
the only tool need is a crank hub puller. A special tool (and expensive) is available; however, you can use the common (and cheap) harmonic balancer removal tool. But it has to be used differently than originally designed.; first remove the three bolts holding the balancer to the crank hub; now with a little persuasion the balancer should come off of the hub.

screw a 7/16th fine thread bolt into the crank snub; it must be long enough that the head does NOT contact the crank hub. Now install the balancer removal tool on the crank hub and begin the removal. the hub will begin to move forward until it contacts the bottom of the 7/16th cap screw; remove that cap screw and replace with a longer one; repeat. After a couple of cycles the hub will be free of the crank. Let me repeat, NO excessive force is needed.

the timing chain cover can now be removed. This may, or may not disturb the pan gasket. more on that later ?
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 05:36 PM
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of course, with the water pump, otpi, and crank hub removed, all three of those seals can be replaced with the timing chain cover still in place, but at this point not removing the timing chain cover (and replacing the seals on the work bench) and at least inspecting the timing chain, would be counter productive (just my opinion).
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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Thanks for all the help! I have not installed the pump yet, but I did fire up the car today for a second to make sure all is well. Fired right up like it is supposed to. Did the modification to the pump with a 3/16" vacuum hose elbow. I trimmed off the barb on one side and it fits perfectly. Running the hose to the passenger side since it is a lot more open in that area and it's away from all the pulleys. Thanks again for all the help!
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