1989 Corvette Question




For the battery I am looking at one of these 2 things, but I don't know if either are the correct size.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMS/...-Terminal.html
or
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120GML/...-Terminal.html
Since I will be replacing the charge and ground wires, I think I will need to use something like in the link so that the ring terminals on the new wire will having something easier to connect to. Just not sure which one to use.
I am also wondering what wire you recommend using for this job. What brand, and/or where from.
All that said, this is what I'll tell you. I can recommend that you NEVER use wire from your local auto parts stores or from Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. The wire they sell is type THHN or THWN. It has mostly PVC insulation rated for 600V with generally 7 strands of copper as the conductor. The insulation is not particularly flexible and quite hard. The copper is stiff as well; having large strands that make up the conductor size. This type of wire is great for commercial and industrial equipment/buildings. ...Not good for anything that has severe vibration and environmental swing dynamics as exist with any car that is actually driven throughout the year; and particularly on a vehicle with stiff suspension like a Corvette. What you need to find is a high-quality wire with multiples of fine stranded copper for flexibility, durability, and heat dissipation. Also look for insulation that is a formulated-rubber of some kind and/or silicone. Wire like that is expensive, but you typically never require all that much. Finding it is a challenge.
For large cables, I've found red and black welding lead to be very good. You can buy it by the foot at your local AirGas type welding store. The insulation is made for abuse and the copper is fine-stranded and flexible as heck. I've seen it as large as 1/0; about the size of your ring finger. For smaller conductors, look for it your local specialty car audio shop or online. I'd point you to "Monster Cable" first since this is their area of expertise. Their cable isn't cheap but it's high quality stuff and worth the price actually.
Beyond that, make your connections using high-heat STEEL crimp-style connectors that you lightly crimp and solder onto the wire. Put shrink tube on the wire before you solder the connector on, then slide the shrink tube onto the connector barrel and heat it up. You'll have a finished connector that will last a very long time and look totally clean and professional.




All that said, this is what I'll tell you. I can recommend that you NEVER use wire from your local auto parts stores or from Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. The wire they sell is type THHN or THWN. It has mostly PVC insulation rated for 600V with generally 7 strands of copper as the conductor. The insulation is not particularly flexible and quite hard. The copper is stiff as well; having large strands that make up the conductor size. This type of wire is great for commercial and industrial equipment/buildings. ...Not good for anything that has severe vibration and environmental swing dynamics as exist with any car that is actually driven throughout the year; and particularly on a vehicle with stiff suspension like a Corvette. What you need to find is a high-quality wire with multiples of fine stranded copper for flexibility, durability, and heat dissipation. Also look for insulation that is a formulated-rubber of some kind and/or silicone. Wire like that is expensive, but you typically never require all that much. Finding it is a challenge.
For large cables, I've found red and black welding lead to be very good. You can buy it by the foot at your local AirGas type welding store. The insulation is made for abuse and the copper is fine-stranded and flexible as heck. I've seen it as large as 1/0; about the size of your ring finger. For smaller conductors, look for it your local specialty car audio shop or online. I'd point you to "Monster Cable" first since this is their area of expertise. Their cable isn't cheap but it's high quality stuff and worth the price actually.
Beyond that, make your connections using high-heat STEEL crimp-style connectors that you lightly crimp and solder onto the wire. Put shrink tube on the wire before you solder the connector on, then slide the shrink tube onto the connector barrel and heat it up. You'll have a finished connector that will last a very long time and look totally clean and professional.
I am sorry for the late reply, very busy week at work.
If you could, take a look at this link and tell me if the cables I found would be sufficient to your standards, would you use them, as you are very good with this kind of stuff.
This: http://www.wireandsupply.com/1_0_CCI...slash-0-01.htm
and
This: http://www.wireandsupply.com/1_0_CCI...slash-0-03.htm
Also, I can not find anywhere online that has the high-heat steel terminals, maybe I am just looking in the wrong place?
And again thank you very much, the help is much appreciated.
Anyway, the wire choices you have there are perfect! That's exactly the type you should go with. It's really great cable and you'll be glad you spent the extra money on that kind of quality. Definitely better than OEM!

As far as the connectors and such go, please navigate to WW. Grainger. Here is a link to a small ring terminal that is a nice way to go (http://www.grainger.com/product/3M-R...283?s_pp=false). It's a solid copper terminal with tin plating to help minimize oxidation and corrosion. The nicer terminals are "brazed" closed. Some even have shrink tubing already on them. I just like the bare terminals because I like to solder the connection.
Browse their website for the fittings you need. I think they sell to the public, but if you aren't able to buy from them, just let me know. I have an account there and can work something out with you.




Anyway, the wire choices you have there are perfect! That's exactly the type you should go with. It's really great cable and you'll be glad you spent the extra money on that kind of quality. Definitely better than OEM!

As far as the connectors and such go, please navigate to WW. Grainger. Here is a link to a small ring terminal that is a nice way to go (http://www.grainger.com/product/3M-R...283?s_pp=false). It's a solid copper terminal with tin plating to help minimize oxidation and corrosion. The nicer terminals are "brazed" closed. Some even have shrink tubing already on them. I just like the bare terminals because I like to solder the connection.
Browse their website for the fittings you need. I think they sell to the public, but if you aren't able to buy from them, just let me know. I have an account there and can work something out with you.
My car is always outside
But, I live in florida so all I have to deal with is rain and I always keep it covered. Mine will be much happier when I build a garage onto my house.Also, I will look for the ring terminals. Thanks for all the help.
And maybe some other can chime in on some wiring diagrams/routing of the ground cables and alternator charge cable.
Thanks, Stephen





