What is the easiest and most efficient way to replace all the fluid in the system on my 1992? I am in the process of doing all four brakes and I figure I might as well change the fluid out. Its 21 years old afterall!

Also where is a good place to get the stainless brake lines from?

Fleabay has them for 80 bucks..maybe I will go that way?

 

Russel SS brake lines are good. Don't remember where I got mine, might have been Summit. I do recommend that you get speed bleeders. I got a set for my 95 thru Rock Auto. It make bleeding the brakes much easier.

I installed the bleeders and then the SS lines. Suctioned off the brake fluid in the reservoir but not exposing the bottom so there was still fluid. Then added new fluid. Started by then cracking the line to the right rear brake. I take a piece of clear plastic tube and push it onto the bleeder and place the other end in a jar. This way I can see when the new fluid has made it to the brake. You can also see any bubbles. Slowly press on the brake several times. Have an assistant constantly check the fluid in the reservoir to be sure it does not run low and constantly replenish it with new fluid. They can also check the tube to see when the new fluid starts to come through. If you don't have an assistant, you can do this yourself. The speed bleeders will allow the fluid to exit but not be sucked back in or allow air to be sucked back in. When your finished with the right rear. Tighten the bleeder and then go to the left rear. Repeat. Go to right front...repeat and finish off with the left front.

Good Luck with your project.

 

Thanks!

I have a one man suction kit used for sucking the fluid out of my race bikes brakes. I just wasnt sure how efficient it would be on such a large system. I will give it a try but first I need to get lines and speed bleeders!

 

I tried a set of Russell lines on my old '92 and found them to be so short that when I raised the car with the wheels off the ground the lines stretched tight. Maybe Russell has changed the length, but I would recommend either Earl's or Goodridge lines. You can get either brand from Forum vendors.

I also use Speed Bleeders on both my '87 and '02. They install in place of the stock bleeder and have a spring-loaded check ball inside them. Install the bleeder so it's tight and then back off about a half-turn. Use a 2 foot piece of plastic tube over the bleeder tip. and put the other end in a can or bottle.

You can then depress the brake pedal which will force fluid out thru the bleeder's check ball. Release the brake pedal and the ball is pushed back. Do this 4-5 times per caliper and you will have pushed fresh fluid thru the system. And definitely keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. Add fluid after bleeding each caliper!

Of course you will want to suck out as much of the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir before starting the bleed process. Get a cheap turkey baster from a grocery store. Suck the old fluid down to where the level is just above where fluid goes into the MC. Add fresh fluid.

One thing that you cannot easily do is to flush the fluid out of the ABS pump. It takes a special module for the GM Tech 1 to be able to run the ABS pump and move fluid out of it. The ABS unit does a self-test each time you start the car and it moves thru 2-3 MPH (that's the buzzing noise you hear behind the driver's seat). A small amount of fluid moves between the ABS and the master cylinder.

I recommend either Earl's or Goodridge stainless lines. You can find Earl's at Summit Racing or Goodridge at Tire Rack. I would not recommend Russell lines or anything at a cheap price from fleabay.

For brake fluid for street use, a good quality DOT3 fluid should work. Castrol LMA, Valvoline SynPower or even the Ford Motorsports HD fluid will work. You will need about 3 pints for a basic flush.

 

Not sure how your system would work. I would be concerned about reversing the flow of the fluid to the ABS system. It might work fine, just never used one before. That is why you don't want to let the reservoir run dry....don't want air in that unit.

 

Its just a suction pump that goes over the bleeder..you suck all the fluid out of the line and have a second person watch the reservoir and add fluid as needed.

 

Just in case anyone is lookign for an easier solution, the local "brake Check" shop charged me under $100 to change the fluid in my 1992 convertible brake system, including using the best synthetic brake fluid they had.

Jim G

 

I use a similar tool to change the fluid in my 92.
As long as the resevoir doesn't get too full and you keep the master full it works well. I use a helper to get a rock solid pedal.

 

Im going to give it a try. I figured it would be a little small for such a large system but Ill just take my time and get er done! Afterll it is winter so what better do I have to spend my time on?

On a side note, The woman asked if I was gonna have my car on the christmas cards this year!

 

We offer full car brake line kits in both OM Steel and Stainless Steel for the 92-96 model Year Corvettes. PM me if interested, or check out our website www.muskegonbrake.com for the two kits. Hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving!

 

FWIW the longest hydraulic line in the '92's brakes is the front right (passenger).

 

I don't remember if I read it here in the forums or in an FSM, but apparently bottoming out some of these master cylinders while bleeding can cause internal damage to the master. The recommendation was to put a piece of 1" thick wood on the firewall behind the pedal to keep it from bottoming out.