C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 05:56 AM
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My '85 has always had a popping sound that comes from , best I can determine, the left rear side. It has always happened after I come to a stop, then start to move off, popping within a few yards of the stop. I always attributed it to the absence of the "teflon" washer used on the later year models and wasnt really worried about it. Yesterday, the popping became a lot more serious. Now when the car pops, it feels as if it shifts sideways a bit. I jacked the L rear side of the car up last night and the only play I can discern is the inner u joint on the half shaft.

Has anyone experienced this pop and hop and what did you find? Is it possible that the shift I feel could be coming from a bad u joint or are there other areas I need to look at?

Also I have the link for Vader's link to Scorp's U joint R&R but I thought I think I remember seeing a thread that doesnt involve taking the tie rod, spring mounting, or camber brace nuts off but removing the bearing then sliding out the half shaft thru that space. Anybody seen this and remember a link??

Any input is appreciated!!!
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 07:07 AM
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You need to start with the u joints.
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 05:32 AM
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I replaced all 4 u joints and still have a pop. I found that all 8 strap bolts on the right side are basically stripped not allowing proper torque. They were little more than hand tight when I took them out. Since there is a tiny bit of room between the u joint retaining tangs on the yokes it makes me wonder if the u joint is shifting in the yoke.

My next step will be to buy new bolts and straps. I am also going to try and tighten the C beam bolts. The axle bearings seem ok but I am going to retorque them. I also need to find some "teflon" washers.

Anything else I should check?
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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Adding a little more info. When the car is cold it does not pop. It takes about 20 miles or so before it starts. It gets pretty bad when I get caught in bumper to bumper. I also hear a rattling that sounds tubular in nature sometimes as well.

Any suggestions will help. Tomorrow I am going to check the torque on the wheel bearings and try and tighten the C beam bolts.
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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if the ujoint is not between the tangs of the yoke or they are not seated I would say that them causing some type of noise or viberation is about 90%. I would like ask you this. did you replace your joints without unhooking the spring tie rod ect??
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 09:18 AM
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Hooked, thanks for your response. No I did not undo the tie rod but I did undo the spring. I took the camber brace loose at the hub rather than mess with the camber setting. Everything went back in place correctly and seated well with the exception of the strap bolts being stripped and not properly torqued. I plan on replacing them as quickly as possible. Unless the straps/bolts are to blame, I havent found the issue yet.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 09:23 AM
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Your posi is locking when it gets hot. Put some posi additive in the differential and it should stop.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 10:08 AM
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Makes perfect sense. Thanks Jack!
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by HlhnEast
Makes perfect sense. Thanks Jack!
Welcome.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by JackDidley
Your posi is locking when it gets hot. Put some posi additive in the differential and it should stop.
like
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:26 PM
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Figured I would bump this to keep suggestions coming in. So far 4 new u joints and draining and putting new 80W90 with 4 ounces of posi additive and I still have a pop.

Next step will be "teflon" washers, re-antisieze the spindle and properly torque the nut. I am going to get 4 new U joint strap sets to replace the stripped ones. I am hoping that is it because its getting closer to taking the batwing down and rebuilding the diff and its something I cant tackle in my driveway.

On the teflon washers, do yall generally order from your local dealership? Nalley in Brunswick, Ga (a good GM parts source) has them for $5.99 but they want $10+ to ship em. I can almost drive to Brunswick cheaper.
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